Dyno'ed the R33 GTR - Dyno Sheet, Pictures & Videos Inside

[iloveskyline]

WOW! So how many horsepower you get after tuning?

 

[Loki]

Reposting what I had put up on my blog (whatadrive.blogspot.com) in the past 2 months:

What A Drive™: Purchased a second RB26DETT engine for my rebuild project

It has always been my intention to purchase a second RB26DETT. The aim was to rebuild the engine and when it was ready, pop the new powerplant into the R33 GTR. That way, I wouldn't experience any downtime and the car would not be stuck at the workshop for weeks on end. It'll also mean that I will be able to install the performance engine parts that I've been stockpiling since last year (please refer to this earlier blog entry).

Lo and behold, I was able to fulfil this goal recently. A friend of mine was looking to sell his R32 GTR's bottom block along with a R33 GTR head. He has recently embarked on a RB30DETT project and as such, will not be able to utilise the bottom block. Whats interesting about this block is that it has been rebored to fit HKS 88mm drag spec forged pistons.

One of the HKS 88mm forged pistons

The actual bottom block​

After carrying out the necessary machine shop tests to check the health of the pistons as well as the bottom block and the head, I decided to purchase the lot. The pistons are in excellent condition (near new in fact), the head needed only one minor weld and skim work, while the block itself passed the water leak test. Whats especially pleasing was that the crank was not bent.

The R33 GTR head​

Stock RB26 oil and water pump, which will be replaced with Tomei Oversize Oil Pump and a N1 Water Pump​

Work on this second engine will start after Chinese New Year holidays and I can't wait to source all the necessary parts like Nismo bearings :).

All of that came from this particular R32 GTR engine​

 

[Kevin Lee]

very nice loki, do u think u can spare some expertise in the rb26dett area, that would be most appreciated in our z31 project

 

[Loki]

Kev: Sure mate. I'll ask my tuner what he knows about RB26DETTs in Z31s.

What A Drive™: Spare Engine Rebuild Update

Monday, February 21, 2011: Please refer to a previous blog entry on my purchase of a spare RB26DETT head and block, if you do not already know the story behind the rebuild.

​

Due to the limited availability of aftermarket RB26 parts locally, my tuner thought it best that I purchase items that we had reserved at several shops. His fear was that, since these reservations weren't firmly tied down with deposits, the vendors would have no qualms in selling the parts to walk-in customers. And so today we went out and visited the usual haunts of motorheads in and around Sunway.

So while the block was being re-sleeved at the machine shop, we went to ST Wangan. We were there for the following items:

Jun Oil Collar


ARP Bolts and Studs

Our next stop was Samurai Racing for the Greddy Oil Sump​

It will take sometime to rebore the block and port the head, so stay tuned till then.

 

[Kevin Lee]

actually the z31 never came with the rb26dett, but only the rb20det red top, our goal is to transplant to that godzilla heart, so yeah any form of support and related help can be appreciated

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newfor...-beater-project-sponsors-needed-new-post.html

 

[Loki]

Kev: Yes, I aware of that. What I meant was that I'll ask my tuner as to the feasibility of transplanting a RB26 into a Z31, what are the requirements and whether it would be a difficult exercise.

What A Drive™: Engine Rebuild Update: Block resleeved & rebored + purchased an ATI Super Damper

Wednesday, March 2, 2011: The machine shop has returned my spare block and I must say that I am quite pleased with the work done. It has been resleeved and the rebored to once again accomodate the HKS 88mm forged pistons. The reason behind the resleeving is to strengthen the block and as an added measure to ensure the longevity of the new engine. Below are pictures of the finished item:

Next up is to port and polish the head, which is already underway as we speak:

I've also purchased a ATI Super Damper today. The RB crankshaft, being in a straight 6, is quite long and thus prone to torsional resonances at lower frequencies. Without a mass damper tuned to the cranks natural modes of vibration, one could get some nasty and sometime fatal twisting of the crank. This resonant twisting can also break the oil pump. Hence it is crucial to have when rebuilding an RB26 engine thats pushing out more than stock power. Its certainly not cheap but definitely gives you peace of mind.

Thats all for now. Till next time, stay tuned.

Read more: What A Drive™: Engine Rebuild Update: Block resleeved & rebored + purchased an ATI Super Damper

 

[Kevin Lee]

hahah well good job on that :D and very nicely done, just sayin :D

 

[Loki]

Spare Engine Rebuild Update - Tomei Forged H-Beam Conrods

What A Drive™: Spare Engine Rebuild Update - Tomei Forged H-Beam Conrods

1 May 2011: Apologies for the lack of updates but its been a busy month for me and I've been waiting on a particular part to arrive. In fact, its the last piece of the engine rebuild jigsaw puzzle. I'm referring to conrods as it was the only other forged item that I wanted for this rebuild. Lo and behold the official spiel (summary courtesy of Nengun (Tomei - Forged H-Beam Conrods - Nissan RB Engines - Nengun Performance):

Usually, to give con-rod buckling strength and light weight character at the same time, H-beam or I-beam profile is applied. Tomei have applied a H-beam profile for the connecting rod for NISSAN RB, SR, CA, VG engines and succeeded in gaining high buckling strength while reducing the weight. Tomei produces con-rod's using a forging mold with the main bearing hole in its large end, so the 'metal flow' runs along con-rod's entire body. And with a use of special materials, they have succeeded in producing con-rods with extreme intensity and durability.

Naturally, I got standard RB26 stroke conrods as I'm not stroking the spare engine. Thanks to my good friend Glenn Trollope of Chasers Motorworks Melbourne (good luck at the World Time Attack dude!), I was able to source the conrods in record time.

So that ends this update as the crank is being balanced but I'm hoping the engine will be ready before the end of May. Theres also the Nismo bearings that need to be installed and those had arrived sometime last month, courtesy of a fellow Skyline owner (thanks Nain).

Can't wait for all the parts to come together.

Read more: http://whatadrive.blogspot.com/2011/05/spare-engine-rebuild-update-tomei.html#ixzz1L6WBPNO6

 

[[PIMPIN]]

Naturally I got standard RB26 stroke conrods as I'm not stroking the spare engine. Thanks to my good friend Glenn Trollope of Chasers Motorworks Melbourne (good luck at the World Time Attack dude!), I was able to source the conrods in record time.

Pretty sure the conrods are the same although in most cases forged. The extra displacement would come from the larger pistons and the crankshaft.

 

[Loki]

Pretty sure the conrods are the same although in most cases forged. The extra displacement would come from the larger pistons and the crankshaft.

Correct me if I'm wrong dude but by stroking an engine, the distance the pistons have to travel has been made longer. In order to do this, you need to enlarge the circle that the lower end of the connecting rod, or rod journals, travels in. However by doing so, you are pushing the piston past the top of the block and into the head. So you either need to put in a shorter connecting rod in or a shorter piston. Now if you don't change the pistons or the conrods, I imagine you'd blow the pistons through the head. So maybe there is a difference.

 

[[PIMPIN]]

Correct me if I'm wrong dude but by stroking an engine, the distance the pistons have to travel has been made longer. In order to do this, you need to enlarge the circle that the lower end of the connecting rod, or rod journals, travels in. However by doing so, you are pushing the piston past the top of the block and into the head. So you either need to put in a shorter connecting rod in or a shorter piston. Now if you don't change the pistons or the conrods, I imagine you'd blow the pistons through the head. So maybe there is a difference.

Yup, because the HKS stroker I used basically you have the option of using the stock conrods or HKS forged conrods. Whichever you use, will still result in RB28. Hence why I said its the pistons and crank that increase the displacement.

 

[Loki]

Yup, because the HKS stroker I used basically you have the option of using the stock conrods or HKS forged conrods. Whichever you use, will still result in RB28. Hence why I said its the pistons and crank that increase the displacement.

I don't think the conrods are the same if you were to stroke a RB26 - in terms of the individual connecting rod's length. I guess it depends on the brand of the pistons and whether it comes in a full stroker kit. Some, as you put it, have been produced to mate with stock RB26 conrods, while others might not. Anyway, an interesting tidbit of knowledge.

 

[[PIMPIN]]

I don't think the conrods are the same if you were to stroke a RB26 - in terms of the individual connecting rod's length. I guess it depends on the brand of the pistons and whether it comes in a full stroker kit. Some, as you put it, have been produced to mate with stock RB26 conrods, while others might not. Anyway, an interesting tidbit of knowledge.

Hmm could possibly both be correct. Here are the specifications for the

HKS stroker http://www.hkseurope.com/engine/apps/capupkit.htm
JUN stroker http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cylinderblock-part/crankshaft/rb26.html?en

Although one is a 2.8 and another 2.7, both retain the standard 121.5mm stock conrod but increase stroke of 77.7mm and 75.7mm as well as increased piston diameter.

But Tomei goes for a shorter conrod of 119.5mm http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/061_conrod.html

 

[cosmicgate]

a little bit out of topic but i've been reading your blog and couldn't help but to ask:

1)how would you rate the kakimoto N1 and the Blitz Nur spec exhaust? Can you specify what kind of transition from the sound department when you move from one to the other exhaust? I'm looking for a bassy note as well to complement the engine bay goodies but at the moment my exhaust note is very close to what one would label as " environment friendly meak pussy ".

2)did removing the centre box or whatever you call it made the car more bassy? I know changing my manifold, turbo and cranking up the boost somehow change how my car sounded like but it wasn't what i was looking for. I just wanted a mellow, low tone bassy note on idle and cruising at 2-3k rpm.

3)i believe i have a straight titanium pipe from front to the end. Does changing the exhaust alone change its sound?I think i read from your blog that aluminium pipes make it more bassy?

sorry for the lack of knowledge in the sound department.

 

[MrNismo]

Hmm could possibly both be correct. Here are the specifications for the

HKS stroker http://www.hkseurope.com/engine/apps/capupkit.htm
JUN stroker http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cylinderblock-part/crankshaft/rb26.html?en

Although one is a 2.8 and another 2.7, both retain the standard 121.5mm stock conrod but increase stroke of 77.7mm and 75.7mm as well as increased piston diameter.

But Tomei goes for a shorter conrod of 119.5mm http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/061_conrod.html

121.5mm is for standard stroke of 73.7mm. For 77.7mm stroke the length is 119.5mm to accommodate the extra 2mm increase in stroke radius.

For stroker kit that utilise stock conrod, the piston pin position is different.

 

[[PIMPIN]]

121.5mm is for standard stroke of 73.7mm. For 77.7mm stroke the length is 119.5mm to accommodate the extra 2mm increase in stroke radius.

For stroker kit that utilise stock conrod, the piston pin position is different.

Yes, which is the case of the HKS and JUN kits from what I can tell.

Anyway, was just sharing what little info there is. I'm sure you could share lots more info

 

[MrNismo]

Eh no leh my car got no stroker hahaha. Did some info research but got not enough doughs to get it done.

 

[Loki]

1)how would you rate the kakimoto N1 and the Blitz Nur spec exhaust? Can you specify what kind of transition from the sound department when you move from one to the other exhaust? I'm looking for a bassy note as well to complement the engine bay goodies but at the moment my exhaust note is very close to what one would label as " environment friendly meak pussy ".

I would say that the Kakimoto N1 has a higher pitched exhaust note compared to the Blitz Nur Spec R. The Blitz is more bassy. Please note however that the Blitz features the full factory system - from the exhaust tip to my Trust downpipe. The Kakimoto was only up to the back box - the mid section consisted of a custom downpipe, which might have had an effect on the noise levels (but not so much the sound).

2)did removing the centre box or whatever you call it made the car more bassy? I know changing my manifold, turbo and cranking up the boost somehow change how my car sounded like but it wasn't what i was looking for. I just wanted a mellow, low tone bassy note on idle and cruising at 2-3k rpm.

Most people remove the center box for better flow and thats good for a FI car. Now, it does increase the noise / decibel levels that the exhaust makes but the sound would remain largely the same as this is dependant on the muffler. I've once had a HKS Super Dragger system mated to a custom downpipe on my BCNR33 and it was quiet, due to the large cannister like muffler (as you may well know, Super Draggers are one of the quietest exhaust systems out there on the market).

3)i believe i have a straight titanium pipe from front to the end. Does changing the exhaust alone change its sound?I think i read from your blog that aluminium pipes make it more bassy?

sorry for the lack of knowledge in the sound department.

From my experience, titanium exhaust systems emit a higher pitched sound (others here might say otherwise). Stainless steel systems give off a more bassy note. By changing the muffler, you will most certainly get a different exhaust sound.

 

[frootloops]

titanium does emit a higher pitched sound...at least for mine

 

[Blood Red]

Combine titanium piping with Blitz Nur Spec. You should get a nice melody :P