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- Dec 10, 2008
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Here is my 2 cents on rotaries. I owned one for many years and moded them and take the advise from me.
1. Most rotaries will last any where from 25,000km to 120,000km. Depending on how its taken care of. At 100,000km the apex seal are quite worn already and it wont take much to break them.
2. If running turbo rotaries, change oil 1500-2500km. Because there is a shit load of fuel dilution to the oil even though it looks clean. With fuel diluted in the oil, it cannot lubricate well under stress and wear the seal. Even at 1000km take the dip stick out and smell the fuel, it'll smell like its been heavily mixed by petrol.
3. Never start and drive a rotary straight away (like we all do in piston cars) when its cold and engine oil is not up to temp. Its easy to break and wear the apex seals. Always allow it to idle to 60C before driving away and drive away GINGERLY shifting at 2500rpm and never drive in boost only at -200 vacume and drive until engine oil reaches 80C then only you can start driving normally and whack the car. Thus its 100% important to install an engine oil temp and boost gauge. You will notice when whacking engine oil will reach 110C very fast thus you need to cruise and cool down. Got money get a big oil cooler.
4. Normal driving in town can use mineral engine oil and on track days you can use fully syn.
5. Spark plugs have to change every 10,000km as they get worn and fouled up. The spark plugs fires 3x more vs regular 4 banger.
6. FC series engine, gets flooded easily and cannot fire up when hot. Like park car then shopping for 20mins then come back cannot fire up. You need to cut power to ecu or fuel pump crank engine for 10 sec and then power up ecu or fuel pump and it will start. Problem gets worse when the engine is old or worn as compression is even lower. Problem as been greatly minimized in the FD series about 99%.
7. Cooling is of maximum importance in rotaries, it will over heat if you don't take care. Don't get the auto version as the auto trans cooler is in the radiator (like all auto cars) and puts extra heat load on the cooling system even more. Thus get a manual or die die disconnect auto trans cooler and use an external oil cooler. More over the auto trans is not strong and cannot handle torture and anything more than 280hp reliably on both FC and FD.
8. If you buy RX7/8 get ready money for spare engine.
9. Basically its takes money, love and care with great amount of discipline to own a rotary.
If not better buy S13 or s15 silvia. Easy 350-400hp and can drive until the cows come home and potong kereta got plenty of spares and tuning shops are filled with all the SR20DET parts. Another option is Supra with 2JZ.
Cheapest fun car will be Cefiro A31 with RB20DET.
1. Most rotaries will last any where from 25,000km to 120,000km. Depending on how its taken care of. At 100,000km the apex seal are quite worn already and it wont take much to break them.
2. If running turbo rotaries, change oil 1500-2500km. Because there is a shit load of fuel dilution to the oil even though it looks clean. With fuel diluted in the oil, it cannot lubricate well under stress and wear the seal. Even at 1000km take the dip stick out and smell the fuel, it'll smell like its been heavily mixed by petrol.
3. Never start and drive a rotary straight away (like we all do in piston cars) when its cold and engine oil is not up to temp. Its easy to break and wear the apex seals. Always allow it to idle to 60C before driving away and drive away GINGERLY shifting at 2500rpm and never drive in boost only at -200 vacume and drive until engine oil reaches 80C then only you can start driving normally and whack the car. Thus its 100% important to install an engine oil temp and boost gauge. You will notice when whacking engine oil will reach 110C very fast thus you need to cruise and cool down. Got money get a big oil cooler.
4. Normal driving in town can use mineral engine oil and on track days you can use fully syn.
5. Spark plugs have to change every 10,000km as they get worn and fouled up. The spark plugs fires 3x more vs regular 4 banger.
6. FC series engine, gets flooded easily and cannot fire up when hot. Like park car then shopping for 20mins then come back cannot fire up. You need to cut power to ecu or fuel pump crank engine for 10 sec and then power up ecu or fuel pump and it will start. Problem gets worse when the engine is old or worn as compression is even lower. Problem as been greatly minimized in the FD series about 99%.
7. Cooling is of maximum importance in rotaries, it will over heat if you don't take care. Don't get the auto version as the auto trans cooler is in the radiator (like all auto cars) and puts extra heat load on the cooling system even more. Thus get a manual or die die disconnect auto trans cooler and use an external oil cooler. More over the auto trans is not strong and cannot handle torture and anything more than 280hp reliably on both FC and FD.
8. If you buy RX7/8 get ready money for spare engine.
9. Basically its takes money, love and care with great amount of discipline to own a rotary.
If not better buy S13 or s15 silvia. Easy 350-400hp and can drive until the cows come home and potong kereta got plenty of spares and tuning shops are filled with all the SR20DET parts. Another option is Supra with 2JZ.
Cheapest fun car will be Cefiro A31 with RB20DET.
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