Durability of the RB25DET

[DRFT_240sx]

Hi peeps ,

would like to get your feedback of the above mentioned engine , how durable are the stock internals before it needs to be build up?

Will it be able to pump out around 350rwhp efficiently without opening the block/head?

Cheers

 

[farizio]

yes, but you are going to need a metal head gasket

 

[Blood Red]

...and how would one go about achieving this 350rwhp? Also, where can one buy this metal head gasket?

 

[gobiz]

Yes, last time I heard around 400hp totally unopened, around 500hp with metal head gasket.

You'll need bigger turbo of course, better cooling (side mounted intercoolers don't flow enough), fuelling and remapped ecu.

Overall rb25det I feel is a very underrated engine, very durable, very cost-effective.

 

[Blood Red]

Yes, last time I heard around 400hp totally unopened, around 500hp with metal head gasket.

You'll need bigger turbo of course, better cooling (side mounted intercoolers don't flow enough), fuelling and remapped ecu.

Overall rb25det I feel is a very underrated engine, very durable, very cost-effective.

Gobiz, what turbo do you recommend, w/ internal or external wastegate? How much roughly and where to get?

When you said fuelling, what are you referring to?

 

[khoyos]

Hi peeps ,

would like to get your feedback of the above mentioned engine , how durable are the stock internals before it needs to be build up?

Will it be able to pump out around 350rwhp efficiently without opening the block/head?

Cheers

350rwhp should be ok if the engine is in good health. things go nasty only when u decide that 350 is not enough n still push out the stock unopened longblock beyond that level. as long as the supporting mods are sufficient, it'll be ok.

 

[cosmicgate]

stock internals are good for 550hp+ on the crank bottomwise, but i wouldn't say much bout the top end though.(neos and non-neos, solid lifters v.s valve lifters)

azmir:go for gt3037,gt3076,gt30series, responsive for 2.5 litres!

 

[Blood Red]

stock internals are good for 550hp+ on the crank bottomwise, but i wouldn't say much bout the top end though.(neos and non-neos, solid lifters v.s valve lifters)

azmir:go for gt3037,gt3076,gt30series, responsive for 2.5 litres!

cosmicgate, do you know how much would those set me back? Need to build business case to present to the financial controller.

Also...if I upgrade the turbo, what else do I need to upgrade to support it? :)

Thank you....

 

[cosmicgate]

1)original turbo = around 4k market price(caplang brand eg:thailand around 2k?)
2)water/oil lines for turbo = couple hundred, rm300-rm500?
3)adapter:the turbo housing will hit the side of your engine(gt30/3076/3037 is not entirely bolt on like alot of ppl think)u need extension adapter, probaly less than rm100 fabricated.
4)intercooler pipes:not sure about pricing on this as you probably only need the exhaust side?
5)depending on the turbo you choose, newer 3076 is internally wastegated!(rm500-700 for external wastegate?)

dont forget the others eg:gasket(for increased compression on boosting higher), ecu/piggyback,injectors,clutch and might be safe for a oil pump upgrade as well, etc etc.

Its kinda vague to come up with a precise figure but most importantly what target power are you chasing?

 

[Blood Red]

cosmicgate....350 is good enough. But i need to feel what 300, 400, 500hp feels like first... *hint* *hint* to the owners of such cars...

hehehehe.....n i don't intend to boost high either. My car is a daily driven car.

 

[khoyos]

cosmicgate, do you know how much would those set me back? Need to build business case to present to the financial controller.

Also...if I upgrade the turbo, what else do I need to upgrade to support it? :)

Thank you....

its best if u come down to a skyline owners' TT (gtt clan). these things are quite troublesome to type one by one hehehe. during TT they will shower u with all sorts of options n give u pros n cons of the build-up...

 

[DRFT_240sx]

thanks a lot peeps , appreciate the comments and feedback.

Which workshop in KL/SUBANG are capable to handle RB engines with reasonable costing?

Glad to know with appropriate fueling and standalone computer it can withstand the kind of hp.

 

[Blood Red]

khoyos....definitely will do that. Just thought if we can share it here, then we can always comeback and refer to the thread. :)

where do u usually TT btw?

 

[gobiz]

1)original turbo = around 4k market price(caplang brand eg:thailand around 2k?)
2)water/oil lines for turbo = couple hundred, rm300-rm500?
3)adapter:the turbo housing will hit the side of your engine(gt30/3076/3037 is not entirely bolt on like alot of ppl think)u need extension adapter, probaly less than rm100 fabricated.
4)intercooler pipes:not sure about pricing on this as you probably only need the exhaust side?
5)depending on the turbo you choose, newer 3076 is internally wastegated!(rm500-700 for external wastegate?)

dont forget the others eg:gasket(for increased compression on boosting higher), ecu/piggyback,injectors,clutch and might be safe for a oil pump upgrade as well, etc etc.

Its kinda vague to come up with a precise figure but most importantly what target power are you chasing?

Yes, all good info.
I'm out of touch, but I remember most people go for garrett series gt30-gt35.

Simple way to look at it, you need more air (turbo) and cooler air (intercooler upgrade), more fuel (fuel pump - gtr fuel pump should be good, last time I bought Bosch 044, injectors), need to control the fuel (ecu). So many ways to go around it.

 

[farizio]

Saw this dude with a grey GTT with 350+ hp on wheels (Dynojet dyno i think) simple mods, turbo was 3037S...had bigger AFM (Q45 punya)..daily driven

 

[V-Spec]

Farizio, I think I know which car you're talking about. :D

 

[DRFT_240sx]

sounds like a good engine to play with. which workshop is good with the RB in town then? whether 25 or 26 ?

and which standalone do u guys usually opt for? powerfc and tune by stwangan or hks vpro and let n1 kao tim?

---------- Post added at 11:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:00 PM ----------

after reading and researching more on the rb25 , here is a list i came out with . can anyone verify how true it is?

1. aftermarket BOVs or cracked stock recirc tubing
2. incorrectly gapped spark plugs
3. shitty coil packs
4. hicas screwing up ( R33 problem)
5. if you run more than about 0.7 bar, the ecu cant retard the timing enough, you need a power FC.
6. pcv system blowing oil all over your maf and intercooler pipes
7. the exhaust manifold studs fall off and your car will make a strange ticking and popping sound while its cold, until the manifold heats up and expands
8. the injectors tick, making you think your exhaust manifold studs fell off
9. if you run 0.95bar or more for awhile, your ceramic turbo internals will get sucked into the intake manifold and ruin your motor. if youre real lucky, the exhaust side will fall off first and lodge itself in your cat (assuming stock turbo)

So anyone ever experienced the above? the turbo can be replaced by an aftermarket one. but what about th eexhaust stud coming out from the engine block ?

---------- Post added at 11:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:44 PM ----------

after reading and researching more on the rb25 , here is a list i came out with . can anyone verify how true it is?

1. aftermarket BOVs or cracked stock recirc tubing
2. incorrectly gapped spark plugs
3. shitty coil packs
4. hicas screwing up ( R33 problem)
5. if you run more than about 0.7 bar, the ecu cant retard the timing enough, you need a power FC.
6. pcv system blowing oil all over your maf and intercooler pipes
7. the exhaust manifold studs fall off and your car will make a strange ticking and popping sound while its cold, until the manifold heats up and expands
8. the injectors tick, making you think your exhaust manifold studs fell off
9. if you run 0.95bar or more for awhile, your ceramic turbo internals will get sucked into the intake manifold and ruin your motor. if youre real lucky, the exhaust side will fall off first and lodge itself in your cat (assuming stock turbo)

So anyone ever experienced the above? the turbo can be replaced by an aftermarket one. but what about th eexhaust stud coming out from the engine block ?

 

[khoyos]

1. aftermarket BOVs or cracked stock recirc tubing
2. incorrectly gapped spark plugs
3. shitty coil packs
4. hicas screwing up ( R33 problem)
5. if you run more than about 0.7 bar, the ecu cant retard the timing enough, you need a power FC.
6. pcv system blowing oil all over your maf and intercooler pipes
7. the exhaust manifold studs fall off and your car will make a strange ticking and popping sound while its cold, until the manifold heats up and expands
8. the injectors tick, making you think your exhaust manifold studs fell off
9. if you run 0.95bar or more for awhile, your ceramic turbo internals will get sucked into the intake manifold and ruin your motor. if youre real lucky, the exhaust side will fall off first and lodge itself in your cat (assuming stock turbo)

1. no experience
2. experienced once but if u buy platinum or iridium plugs, they come from factory already gapped at 0.8mm which is the correct gap for RBs
3. experienced once but i got DIY solution so when it happens, PM me i let u know the solution.
4. my car not a skyline so not running HICAS
5. was running 0.8bar with stock turbo with power fc so didnt experience that. u can use s-afc or emanage to settle that. no need to go too far to the extent of power fc.
6. typical for RB. install oil catch tank to keep things tidy. but the pcv wont be that bad unless u have blown piston rings or worn out valve seals.
7. wont happen easily. no worries about that.
8. did not experience that
9. yeah ceramic turbine wheels are extremely fragile. best to keep boost below 0.9bar or change to turbo that use steel turbine wheel.

 

[zyfull]

^^kudos for sifu khoyos...

 

[DRFT_240sx]

thanks khoyos , then what is the cause of your rb25 blowing up then?