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Message: <blockquote data-quote="cruiser78" data-source="post: 3290000" data-attributes="member: 63550">u already have an 'A' type engine, nothing much to change. same mounting. the gearbox also the same, C52 model.the main thing is the wiring. get a complete half cut with wiring looms/harness uncut. if you're lucky, you'll get a complete wiring with fuel pump still dangling from its cable. Get the complete dashboard too. best is to change the dashboard that came with the halfcut otherwise wiring will become a nightmare. why? simplest thing is the air cond. Inexperience installer will neglect the importance of good air cond wiring. the 20V ECU have two pin that connect to the air cond amplifier. One pin (AC1) connects to the compressor solenoid and one pin (ACT) connect to the igniter/tachometer. Why all the hassle with the air cond? The engine will run even with those pin wrongly connected or not connected at all, right? The answer is yes, the engine will run smoothly and you smile with the 20V performance until you switch on the air conditioner. The power suddenly drops, knocking sound appear when overtaking or climbing. Idle become very-very bad (fluctuating) and fuel consuming. Black smoke coming out of the tailpipe.The importance of those two pin is for the ECU to recognize that the air cond is switched on and engine load is increasing. Therefore, ECU will adjust spark advance according to engine load due to compressor pressure building up, to prevent power loss and fuel knocking. For BLT ECU, it will also adjust idling speed with the ISCV since BLT does not have air-cond VSV like SVT.The simplest way to ensure the wiring does not jumble up it to get the conversion with complete dashboard change. The air cond amplifier for AE101/111 is build in the dashboard, unlike our burger which uses module. (I have a burger too)If you're considering not to change the dashboard (like me, the original low profile look or u have a GT long meter complete with oil pressure and voltmeter), identify the correct pin from the AC amp connected to the Compressor, Igniter and ECU. Usually pin no.10 (black wire) connects to igniter/tachometer/ECU pin ACT, pin no.9 to ECU pin AC1.Another thing is the EVAP system. make sure it is correctly installed otherwise idle will get very-very high. (1.5k to 2k rpm during idle, warm up in the morning even worse)I wonder if your original power steering have idle up VSV. Mine have. If yes, make sure to connect the hose correctly, one end at the intake plenum, and one end at the vacuum rail. Otherwise the engine could stall when turning steering to the maximum.Bump: Eh.... one more thing la. If u plan to convert the engine with the dashboard too, can give the old one to me arr.....?? hahahamine' s too old. started to crack. and the colour is not right. Brown......<img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/bawling.gif"  class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":bawling:" title="Bawling    :bawling:" data-shortname=":bawling:" />Bump: Eh.... one more thing la. If u plan to convert the engine with the dashboard too, can give the old one to me arr.....?? hahahamine' s too old. started to crack. and the colour is not right. Brown......<img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/bawling.gif"  class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":bawling:" title="Bawling    :bawling:" data-shortname=":bawling:" /></blockquote>

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