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advise needed..EG6
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<blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 3048017" data-attributes="member: 27518"><p>7K, probably enough for new hydraulic transmission conversion and some minor bodywork only.</p><p></p><p>I don't really mind the small vtec, as the basic parts are there, the only difference is probably the TB and manifold design (the head is similar the same PR3 casting as the big VTEC engine, dunno about the cams)</p><p></p><p>Your budget a bit small for your earlier goals, because even rollcage work will be somewhere in the region of a thousand or more (metal isn't cheap now) and depending on design of the cage, that could go up even more.</p><p></p><p>But now that you have a budget, I'd start with getting it to run well first, and concentration on other mods as the parts wear.</p><p></p><p>If you don't have deep pockets, then it's best to keep it running well first, and then beginning to mod as you get better salary or that year end bonus you've been waiting for :P.</p><p></p><p>If it's your second car, and you don't plan to daily drive it, then strip it down, take out windows, rubber and all, end scrape every bit of tar and sound deading material out. It will take months, and after that consider the rollcage and other body work done, and finally working on replacing all the chassis bushes and plastic knobs covering the holes in the chassis (if you're handy with a putty, you can shave the holes (means closing them up), then reapply the body paste (that white thingy that ensure the sheet metal don't creak against each other) and send it for paint (or paint yourself, if you have the resources and a friend's paint oven)</p><p></p><p>But before beginning, ensure that you're committed to finish it, because it won't take a while, and even if you send it to the pro's, the difference is only the time. They can do it a lot FASTER.</p><p></p><p><strong>Sorry, </strong>but it needs to be said that when you buy a cheap honda, it's a given that most parts on it will need to be replaced, it's OKAY if you're expecting to do so, but for most budget minded people I've met, it's a source of endless trouble. If it's returnable (eg. bought from own family member) I'd suggest to return it and get a better example. The rubber seals and stuff will be old and hard, and most parts will be well, OLD, but most of it will still be pliable and reliable enough for a few years worth, enough for use while scrounging/saving money up for that 'overhaul' you've always wanted.</p><p></p><p>I bought a spare cheap EG chassis myself, and I can honestly say that repairing it has costed it's original purchase price once over, and it's still not done at this stage, and it's been like nearly a year. I don't mind though, because I expected it, and it's a personal project I undertake in my own spare time, so it's not likely to be seen anytime soon.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shiroitenshi, post: 3048017, member: 27518"] 7K, probably enough for new hydraulic transmission conversion and some minor bodywork only. I don't really mind the small vtec, as the basic parts are there, the only difference is probably the TB and manifold design (the head is similar the same PR3 casting as the big VTEC engine, dunno about the cams) Your budget a bit small for your earlier goals, because even rollcage work will be somewhere in the region of a thousand or more (metal isn't cheap now) and depending on design of the cage, that could go up even more. But now that you have a budget, I'd start with getting it to run well first, and concentration on other mods as the parts wear. If you don't have deep pockets, then it's best to keep it running well first, and then beginning to mod as you get better salary or that year end bonus you've been waiting for :P. If it's your second car, and you don't plan to daily drive it, then strip it down, take out windows, rubber and all, end scrape every bit of tar and sound deading material out. It will take months, and after that consider the rollcage and other body work done, and finally working on replacing all the chassis bushes and plastic knobs covering the holes in the chassis (if you're handy with a putty, you can shave the holes (means closing them up), then reapply the body paste (that white thingy that ensure the sheet metal don't creak against each other) and send it for paint (or paint yourself, if you have the resources and a friend's paint oven) But before beginning, ensure that you're committed to finish it, because it won't take a while, and even if you send it to the pro's, the difference is only the time. They can do it a lot FASTER. [B]Sorry, [/B]but it needs to be said that when you buy a cheap honda, it's a given that most parts on it will need to be replaced, it's OKAY if you're expecting to do so, but for most budget minded people I've met, it's a source of endless trouble. If it's returnable (eg. bought from own family member) I'd suggest to return it and get a better example. The rubber seals and stuff will be old and hard, and most parts will be well, OLD, but most of it will still be pliable and reliable enough for a few years worth, enough for use while scrounging/saving money up for that 'overhaul' you've always wanted. I bought a spare cheap EG chassis myself, and I can honestly say that repairing it has costed it's original purchase price once over, and it's still not done at this stage, and it's been like nearly a year. I don't mind though, because I expected it, and it's a personal project I undertake in my own spare time, so it's not likely to be seen anytime soon. [/QUOTE]
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advise needed..EG6