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Message: <blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 2657460" data-attributes="member: 27518">Well, here's an old thread about budget B16A modifications.<a href="http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/honda/116780-budget-b16a-upgrades.html" target="_blank">http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/honda/116780-budget-b16a-upgrades.html</a>The majority of your money will involve getting an extractor and and exhaust set. Usually I get best performance out with mugen extractors. FGK, spoon, owners that traded in theirs for mugen usually say that the car is a lot faster with mugen headers.I'd suggest you check on engine health first though. Like how much compression are you getting currently/when you dynoed for that 135hp at wheel.I seem to get better results with 4-1 than 4-2-1 for peak power though, although some people got better results with 4-2-1, ultimately 4-1 makes more power without needing to mess with standalones and piggybacks, (at least for me)Overhauling/blueprinting is pretty expensive. I'm doing it right now actually (it all started with my piston no.1 leaking and giving me 160 vs 220 on other 3 cylinders (valve leak). Since removing the engine, why not change other stuff as well, something like that was not actually good news, but it actually increased the speed of my modding plans.Bearings, gaskets, and rubber seals add up to quite a bit. (actually I replaced my rubber seals when I put in my engine, so I'm reusing rubber seals because my engine isn't leaking oil at all at the moment, kind of depends on their condition once they're out though.. complete rubber/oil seal for the entire engine is not exactly cheap (I forget the exact price).The price of syncros also not cheap, and if you factor in prices of gearbox and the money required to custom it to something you want, it gets expensive. REALLY EXPENSIVE.with a GSR gearbox starting at 2K+, expect that to increase when you factor in a new LSD at 2.8-3.5K (depending on brand), Final drive, custom ratios, etc.when you get to the higher scales, 2-3K nets you... one part.. lol, sometimes not even one part.And example would be the work done on my cylinder head right now. A used cylinder head is near 1K, but the since I'm replacing the tappets only, it will cost me 600+ for the tappets alone, sans workmanship, so for some people, it may seem like buying the cylinder head is a better deal. But since I'm committed to building my engine in the long run, I'm opting for new instead of used parts.. After all, I'm not reusing most of the parts in my head anyway. I think the money I poured into the head alone total 2-3K, and that's with NO cams. Performance improvement wise, I don't know.. it's not even assembled yet, still waiting for the tappets.Sure it sounds scary spending that kind of money. That's the reason I do it slow, head prep and chassis reinforcement and fixing weak links (for me, it's the stock rubber bushes on the car) before going for more power. As it is, I'm cracking my bushes pretty often.Well, I'm just weird that way.. l like high hp, but I'd like some form of stable handling as well, so even my minor suspension mods take out a big chunk from my modding budget.I'm not sure about the 'blue-printing' part though, because blue printing involves returning everything to stock settings, like crank bearing clearance, ring gaps, etc. Dunno if any shops out there that actually remembers them all to do a blueprinting of an engine.I'm going to do a semblance of blueprinting for my engine myself though, I even bought plastigage (that will jack up my repair costs a bit.. ) for that purpose.Well, I'll update once I actually make progress on it. Too many things going on at one time, and the rain is a major damper on things.BTW, with those budget mods, I already make 160+ atw. No cams, just mugen headers, fuel regulator, HKS intake, and 5 zigen Bordermax exhaust, no cat. It is very loud, so obviously you have to use a silencer for the exhaust for daily driving.Low end sucked though, which I fixed later once I got my hondata, so if you're playing track, after all that mods, get a piggy or standalone.There was a car that dynoed on the same dyno, a real EG6, not converted only got 140whp, but that's because he's already losing a bit of compression on all four cylinders, so obviously engine health makes a difference for hp output as well.my sr4 actually runs on an early 92' SR3 engine.. not a later gen EG9/EG6. My MAP sensor is still at the firewall like EF/CRX small v. :PYour mileage will vary, but the budget b16a mods should get you somewhere close to that number, if your engine is healthy enough.</blockquote>

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