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Message: <blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 2098562" data-attributes="member: 27518">That one I oso dunno, because nobody has ever clayed a b16A with B16b cams and pistons for lift, or did and shared the results.I plan to, on mine, but that one I'll post when I actually do it.. (O_o)I think it's around 3mm or so for minimum clearance of piston face and valves... but not sure. Better check magazines or "reputable" websites.Anyway, you're sure you're losing compression with the h/gasket? It might be the piston rings.. like J101 said.. could be the head got warped, so might need milling.. I milled of mine a bit during conversion, to ensure a tight and leak-less fit.Rod stretch according to mat salleh should range from 1-2mm depending on max RPM, so piston valve clearance should take that in account. Mugen h/gasket I think reduces from 1.3/1.5mm(I'll recheck this number later, raining now! I think it's thinner, but not sure.. and I'm talking about the compressed gasket height.. J101 say 0.7, but I remember it's higher, then again, j101 could be right.) to .5mm or less, I think.. but that one dependent on how much your torqued the head. ARP bolt setups I think usually tighter, but not sure, since I didn't manage to measure one that did it, busy with other work as usual.Some engine builders resurface the pistons valve reliefs for clearance, and probably do it after measuring clearance.Thin head gasket is so expensive that I think that milling the head + stock gasket is better.. but power increase is so minimal you have to wonder if it's worth the 500+ you're going to spend for a new gasket. I wonder if anybody is willing to spend a couple of hundred for before after dyno to prove me wrong.. :PJFD! Sounds like what I usually do in the tunnel too.. hahahaha.. enjoying your 304s eh? :P</blockquote>

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