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Message: <blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 2259063" data-attributes="member: 27518">Hmm.. not sure if you're talking about the same friend, but there's a guy with a B20B that was running fine for 2 years, then spoiled.. but not due to the problem with the block, but rather the timing belt bearing.. it jammed, belt skipped a few teeth, bent valves and a dead engine. But was it due to using 86mm?It could happen to any other engine than just B20B, wouldn't it?Another one that's closer to home ran more than 2 years, but blew due to overreving.86mm is drivable, and possibly maintainable, and I haven't seen one with a critical sleeve failure yet.Strange thing is, I'd have thought that the thin sleeves between the pistons would have failed first, because they're only like 2mm (or was it less? I forget) thick..So please raise your hands if you've seen failure at that point..I'm curious, because what I usually see is usually a hole in the piston (detonation? or pre-ignition?), broken rods, and cracks at the lower sleeve area (which in my opinion is almost always caused by that broken rod swinging loose).Which reminds me.. K20A pistons in a B20B has very high compression.. I think it's more likely to kill it due to the high comp than anything else.So I think the question that needs to be asked are: A) Is our ron numbers a good representative of our anti knock index, are they a constant, or changes with temperature and fuel additives from various oil companies?B) what ignition timing and how it relates to high comp. Should it be retarded enough to compensate for the high temps that we occasionally see on the road? You'd get lower dyno readings in the afternoons that way, and can the owner be satisfied with such a low hp reading?</blockquote>

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