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<blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 1063332852" data-attributes="member: 27518"><p>Actually the torque dipping part will always happen at high rpms. That much is a guaranted part. </p><p>You can't make more torque out of a smaller engine. I posted last time about reading dyno charts but I guess nobody still understood it.</p><p></p><p>If you want to make high power B16A, then the idea is to reduce torque losses at high rpm due to air restriction, rotational losses, etc.</p><p></p><p>To make it simpler, if you look at dyno sheet, the idea of making high horsepower with small cc is to reduce that torque dip after 7.5-8Krpm (standard B16A).. you can't make more torque with a 1.6litres after that.. what you can do is multiply the torque using a smaller Final drive, say, 5.0-4.7FD, and reduce the torque loss. or make bigger torque with 2L. but 2.2+L is the current limit with 95mm cranks and 85 bore</p><p></p><p>So, when building a high rpm power engine, it's not about making more torque, but making the torque loss less after 8-10K rpm. lightened parts, higher compression, longer duration cams. That's why raising horsepower is as easy as increasing the rpm (remember those days people rev B16A until it blows?) Got reason why they do that, because the car does GO FASTER.... just not for long... lol :P</p><p></p><p>So it's not about making more torque, but making torque loss smaller.. a lot of people think that for higher hp, you need to raise the torque.. this is not 100% true, since the way you calculate horsepower is also HP = [rpm x T(torque)] x 5252(constant)</p><p></p><p>Not complex to understand actually, usually I say maths formula, people all pening already. lol. </p><p></p><p>How turbos increase HP is by increasing torque. And they do that by artificially increasing the engine capacity. 1 bar boost on 2L block = 4 litres N/A power! < in theory, real life means it's not so clear cut.. losses from pushing the turbine means turbo efficiency is about 60-70% only, even less on bigger turbines.. so 1 bar boost on 2L block = 60-70% 4litre N/A power only.</p><p></p><p>N/A cannot increase torque like turbos, the only way to increase torque is by increasing displacement. but after that limit, we need to play with RPM.. use gear to multiply the torque reaching the road, actually using our hp written on the dyno effectively.</p><p></p><p>So to get more hp, it's not simply increasing rpm, bam!, instant horsepower... need to mod the FD to get the most out of it too.</p><p></p><p>So why play N/A? would be a good question. Same reason why supercars rather run N/A engines rather than stuff in big turbo?s. Immediate response. A lot of people keep telling me turbo has no lag... oh really? then why always kena left behind in 300m race against NAs? Of course, after 300m can overtake, but that's not LAG ah? Hehehe.</p><p></p><p>One more is control...</p><p>I think you know what happens to those turbo cars that try to play2 with you at the slow speed corners and suddenly the boost spools up to the max because they keep on/off throttle behind you. :P</p><p></p><p>It's like the ITBs, discussed it with a lot of people, but in the end when I try myself, get different result lol.. using cams, 11.8 compressioon, idle like standard car lol... even I myself go WTF.. of course, I can also do that loopy idle thing.. simple matter when you got standalone ECU.. :P</p><p></p><p>So now going to attempt something new, I'm going to degree in the cams myself (of course, the test engine will be my own lah.) so will measure clearances, mock up assembly.) Will attempt more than the usual +2-3 degree adjustment.</p><p></p><p>Finally got myself an 2000lbs engine stand (enough to support a V8 engine lol.. tersilap buy but NVM, and I forgot that the guy was going to send it over.. when he called, I was like 150kms away, went back to see my parents.) so that's going to help in degreeing the cams on an engine that's out of the car. (this is also to store my spare engine.. dowan to see it on the floor already.. the engine stand also means I can move it around in the storeroom)</p><p></p><p>The clearances are not so difficult to remember, all mostly must have at least 1-2mm valve to valve, piston to valve, clearance. (since they're forged units) if non-forged, should be 2-3mm at least. So not doing it blindly of course.. will be claying the engine for clearances.</p><p></p><p>It's okay to critique akuma.. I don't mind.. I prefer people telling me I can't do it for a reason, than say.. "sure can, go do it lah!"</p><p></p><p>Then see if the I can reduce the risks from that reason they give, or eliminate it altogether.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shiroitenshi, post: 1063332852, member: 27518"] Actually the torque dipping part will always happen at high rpms. That much is a guaranted part. You can't make more torque out of a smaller engine. I posted last time about reading dyno charts but I guess nobody still understood it. If you want to make high power B16A, then the idea is to reduce torque losses at high rpm due to air restriction, rotational losses, etc. To make it simpler, if you look at dyno sheet, the idea of making high horsepower with small cc is to reduce that torque dip after 7.5-8Krpm (standard B16A).. you can't make more torque with a 1.6litres after that.. what you can do is multiply the torque using a smaller Final drive, say, 5.0-4.7FD, and reduce the torque loss. or make bigger torque with 2L. but 2.2+L is the current limit with 95mm cranks and 85 bore So, when building a high rpm power engine, it's not about making more torque, but making the torque loss less after 8-10K rpm. lightened parts, higher compression, longer duration cams. That's why raising horsepower is as easy as increasing the rpm (remember those days people rev B16A until it blows?) Got reason why they do that, because the car does GO FASTER.... just not for long... lol :P So it's not about making more torque, but making torque loss smaller.. a lot of people think that for higher hp, you need to raise the torque.. this is not 100% true, since the way you calculate horsepower is also HP = [rpm x T(torque)] x 5252(constant) Not complex to understand actually, usually I say maths formula, people all pening already. lol. How turbos increase HP is by increasing torque. And they do that by artificially increasing the engine capacity. 1 bar boost on 2L block = 4 litres N/A power! < in theory, real life means it's not so clear cut.. losses from pushing the turbine means turbo efficiency is about 60-70% only, even less on bigger turbines.. so 1 bar boost on 2L block = 60-70% 4litre N/A power only. N/A cannot increase torque like turbos, the only way to increase torque is by increasing displacement. but after that limit, we need to play with RPM.. use gear to multiply the torque reaching the road, actually using our hp written on the dyno effectively. So to get more hp, it's not simply increasing rpm, bam!, instant horsepower... need to mod the FD to get the most out of it too. So why play N/A? would be a good question. Same reason why supercars rather run N/A engines rather than stuff in big turbo?s. Immediate response. A lot of people keep telling me turbo has no lag... oh really? then why always kena left behind in 300m race against NAs? Of course, after 300m can overtake, but that's not LAG ah? Hehehe. One more is control... I think you know what happens to those turbo cars that try to play2 with you at the slow speed corners and suddenly the boost spools up to the max because they keep on/off throttle behind you. :P It's like the ITBs, discussed it with a lot of people, but in the end when I try myself, get different result lol.. using cams, 11.8 compressioon, idle like standard car lol... even I myself go WTF.. of course, I can also do that loopy idle thing.. simple matter when you got standalone ECU.. :P So now going to attempt something new, I'm going to degree in the cams myself (of course, the test engine will be my own lah.) so will measure clearances, mock up assembly.) Will attempt more than the usual +2-3 degree adjustment. Finally got myself an 2000lbs engine stand (enough to support a V8 engine lol.. tersilap buy but NVM, and I forgot that the guy was going to send it over.. when he called, I was like 150kms away, went back to see my parents.) so that's going to help in degreeing the cams on an engine that's out of the car. (this is also to store my spare engine.. dowan to see it on the floor already.. the engine stand also means I can move it around in the storeroom) The clearances are not so difficult to remember, all mostly must have at least 1-2mm valve to valve, piston to valve, clearance. (since they're forged units) if non-forged, should be 2-3mm at least. So not doing it blindly of course.. will be claying the engine for clearances. It's okay to critique akuma.. I don't mind.. I prefer people telling me I can't do it for a reason, than say.. "sure can, go do it lah!" Then see if the I can reduce the risks from that reason they give, or eliminate it altogether. [/QUOTE]
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