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Message: <blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 2529296" data-attributes="member: 27518">Yeah, the headgasket is the easiest means of increasing compression, but you need to 'remove' the head to do it.usually you can do a few things at one go when you remove the head.A) new v/s retainer setB) new LMAs (or hydraulic tappets to some) (if they're already leaking)C) valve grind / new valves + grind.D) port workSpec C (part number ends with -00C)is 255@1mm on intake/exhaust. about 10 degs or so increase from CTR cams. (advertised, I don't know, see spec sheet of the cams) The primary and secondary are higher than CTRs though, so expect to remap your ECU/retune piggyback/whatever.the Spec C2 (part number ends with -02C) is 260@1mm (advertised is 300)As with all toda cams, the spec mirror each other for intake and exhaust.I'm assuming you're going to use the C2, since the Spec C (-02C) is the ones that's more 'available' ATM. With the lack of compression, your tuner can play retard the intake and/or exhaust and see how the torque curve goes (Hopefully he remembers to adj. the distributor because the retarding the intake cams retards ignition as well)Retarding the intake cams should help compensate for the lack of higher compression, but you only have a very small leeway before the valves and piston clearance become an issue (there's a reason why there's the minimum clearance of 0.035" - 0.060" depending on rods used, to compensate for crank and wrist pin bearing wear, and how high a peak RPM you're shooting for) Not checking clearance results in many dead engines, so naturally you need to trust your mechanic on this, and that everything works out well and there isn't a date between your piston and valves when you are at 9K rpm. Valve float is also an issue, then again, with c2 cams you can't use the stock valve springs.There's also worry about the aggresive lobes on the cams, which means that you shouldn't use a stock timing belt if you want longevity.Well, don't forget to post your results when you are done.As to the bolts, I think I was pretty clear.. it's up to you.. stock R bolts hold up pretty well, and the only reason you want to use studs is to maintain the block's thread from wearing out.Measure your bolts with new ones, if they're a bit longer, it's time to replace the bolt before they snap when being torqued.EvoX2,The stock R bolts are not expensive, but price wise.. I think in the region of 200-ish, not sure though.</blockquote>

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