Reply to thread

See what others are reading now! Try Forums > Current Activity

Message: <blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 2765483" data-attributes="member: 27518">I don't think 1.6 can make that kind of torque amount (EASILY) at below 9,500rpm with 1.6L displacement, unless you run big compression, and cams, and possibly with octane boosted fuel with aggresive timing and/or removing various accesories (means you're not daily driving the car)Now, if you're not daily driving the car, stop reading here.I don't have the torque calc with me right now, but I'll just post the base formula here. and do a rough calc without SAE correction. assuming you're rev limited to 9000rpm.HP = (Torque in lbs-ft x rpm)/5252, 210whp X 5252 = Torque x 9000(210whp x 5252) / 9000 = Torque at lbs-ft at the wheels (210whp x 5252) / 9000 = 122.5lbs-ft atw.So you need to generate 122.5lbs-ft AT 9000rpm (at the wheels) to get 210whp.That doesn't seem so implausible till you actually try to do it. generating that kind of torque at 9K always has some parts issue to work out, like playing with cam timing, too small a TB, intake port restricting flow, etc, and all those mods to improve high end flow will adversely affect part throttle driving.There's also the easier way to make that torque with FD mods to multiply that torque to the amount you need, but although you accelerate faster, but you also hit terminal velocity of the gear much earlier, and probably lose time shifting. That's also one of the main reasons why dyno's reference speed, because if you tried to do a dyno pull in 1st, it'd know.. :P. Maybe one of these days someone should try get a torque reading out at 1st gear just for laughs, bragging rights and information.I've heard and seen of 1.6L making more, but I don't think they use regular fuel, and they are usually running as full duty track cars, and with quads and without accessories like A/c and Power Steering, and of course modified gear ratios and FD.But if you're successful, then congratulations.If from engines that's already built, 180-210whp B18C (if you can make B16B make that kind of numbers without revving to 9.5-10,000rpm, I'd like to know how you do it without stroking it to 1.8 or boosting)But that's talking about N/A engines, if turbo, probably very easy with just half a bar of boost with medium sized turbos.Just remember one thing when calculating fuel injectors, fuel pressure is everything, and the reference flow rate for most injectors are about 30psi, about B16A regulator standards while the type R regulator don't really keep to those pressures (those long enough here probably read the test I did, and which is also why in calculation, the B18C 240cc R injectors are actually undersized for B18C, and that's how honda got away with small cc injectors. for a 200hp car called the DC2R.The honda B16A only runs up to 80% duty cycle (I confirmed this by measuring the injector pulses, and with B16B, I anticipate that the highest is probably in the range of 85-90% duty cycle, but ) Both injectors have the same flow rate, even though with different connectors, and can easily hit 11ish AFR with 3.5bar fuel pressure at below 9.5K rpms.Still if you say you need 310cc injectors, there's always the H22A peak hold injectors with resistor box. H22A injectors are about 345cc peak hold, but only the earlier gen units, the later gen units are 290 saturated if I'm not wrong. (with prices of lucas disc injectors not being that expensive (for generic brands), it makes sense to get new.RC injectors are a bit more expensive because they're flow tested and balanced from factory, I think that's why they cost a premium over generic lucas disc injectors.If hattech is correct, and the mitsu GSR injectors are saturated units. I think they were about 290-ish cc (or so I'm told), and probably would be enough for you.Good luck with your 210whp B16B. I hope you succeed, because there's not enough love for small cc high revving engines.</blockquote>