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<blockquote data-quote="Izso" data-source="post: 1064533403" data-attributes="member: 2429"><p>The Kelisa and Kancil have a subframe that supports the engine. That one has 4 mounts. The engine itself is held up by 3 mounts. I would recommend changing all 7 when you change the engine mounts because the support subframe is critical to keeping the engine in place too mahh.. And besides, the Kelisa engine can't be cherry picked from the top, it's removed from the bottom. </p><p></p><p>VR4 and Wira only has 4 mounts. Usually the front and back ones break causing lesser response and vibration. Stock mounts on average last 2-3 years. In my 10 years I've only changed the side L-R mounts once. Front and back changed 4 times <img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":biggrin:" title="Biggrin :biggrin:" data-shortname=":biggrin:" /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Silicon / PU / Hardened rubber mounts aka solid mounts will transfer full engine power to the drive train giving you good engine response but at the expense of vibration all over the car. A stock car won't feel too bad with the minor vibrations - panels and plastic bits and pieces and even the HU will vibrate enough to cause a lot of annoying rattling noises. If your engine is modified and have an aggressive cam or something, prepare to vibrate your teeth out especially if you have a bucket seat and no sound proofing / insulation (race car). Last time I test drove a friends Putra with full race mounts and shitloads of NA mods, I came out after a lap feeling like I had just finished a session with an OSIM chair. Everything was vibrating but the engine response was instant. Damn good but not suited for everyday driving if you ask me.</p><p></p><p>The alternative would be to use superlon silicon or windscreen sealant and inject it into a stock mount and stiffen it. It won't be as hard as a solid mount but does work wonders as a DIY!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Izso, post: 1064533403, member: 2429"] The Kelisa and Kancil have a subframe that supports the engine. That one has 4 mounts. The engine itself is held up by 3 mounts. I would recommend changing all 7 when you change the engine mounts because the support subframe is critical to keeping the engine in place too mahh.. And besides, the Kelisa engine can't be cherry picked from the top, it's removed from the bottom. VR4 and Wira only has 4 mounts. Usually the front and back ones break causing lesser response and vibration. Stock mounts on average last 2-3 years. In my 10 years I've only changed the side L-R mounts once. Front and back changed 4 times :biggrin: Silicon / PU / Hardened rubber mounts aka solid mounts will transfer full engine power to the drive train giving you good engine response but at the expense of vibration all over the car. A stock car won't feel too bad with the minor vibrations - panels and plastic bits and pieces and even the HU will vibrate enough to cause a lot of annoying rattling noises. If your engine is modified and have an aggressive cam or something, prepare to vibrate your teeth out especially if you have a bucket seat and no sound proofing / insulation (race car). Last time I test drove a friends Putra with full race mounts and shitloads of NA mods, I came out after a lap feeling like I had just finished a session with an OSIM chair. Everything was vibrating but the engine response was instant. Damn good but not suited for everyday driving if you ask me. The alternative would be to use superlon silicon or windscreen sealant and inject it into a stock mount and stiffen it. It won't be as hard as a solid mount but does work wonders as a DIY! [/QUOTE]
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