Car shaking when idle

chimaera

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i own a wira 1.6 (m) millennium edition my car shake tedious when idle with air cond on until i can hear my dash board sound, when i press some oil (pedal) the car go back to normal.. for your information my car rpm will drop to around 600 - 700 when air cond on and start shake if the rpm to around 1100 the car back to normal....

my question is... is it normal for my car? can i set my car idle rpm to 1100 so the car won't shake so much...??
 
chimaera said:
i own a wira 1.6 (m) millennium edition my car shake tedious when idle with air cond on until i can hear my dash board sound, when i press some oil (pedal) the car go back to normal.. for your information my car rpm will drop to around 600 - 700 when air cond on and start shake if the rpm to around 1100 the car back to normal....

my question is... is it normal for my car? can i set my car idle rpm to 1100 so the car won't shake so much...??


Try 800rpm first, you can set at 1100, but petrol will be gone faster..
 
so if i want to set it normally how much it will charge? if any one face this problem too please give more advice thanks
 
its normal for a car to shake when rpm 1000 below...my car is the same too...
yes u can set it back...take to the workshop and just tell them ur rpm very low and u wan it higher...coz near ur throttle body there is a nut/screw to adjust it... i dun they will charge expensive la...just making the screw tighter oni ma...hehehe
cheers!
 
or u can ask ur mech to adjust for u when u service ur car lo. may b u wanna check ur enjin mounting oso. it happen to me. hope this help
 
Yeah, car mounting also is a cause, for carburetor car we can adust the nut/screw, but injection cannot, have to use machine to tune it. Anyway do we notice or not? When new proton wira manual when we drive is ok only, after sometime it start to vibrate or sometimes engine dead in the middle of traffic jam. Actually the timing stand 50% the other 50% is because the air intake to the injecter blocked by carbon. So when we don't know we go back to service center to increase the timing, then problem solved. This is totally wrong, on meter after adjust we see is 800rpm but actual is 1000-1100rpm already which is fuel consuming during idle. We can clean it by ourself on this. You can see after the air filter before to injecter got a joint, just take out the joint then open the spring loaded valve, after this use a clean cloth to wipe it. Finish install back and you will found the engine not that shaky. But this only applied to injection cars.
 
Let all the people have more awarness on this, last time before o know this, when go to service center almost get con with rm300, but this is for cleaning the whole injection module on the car. If just 1 part blocked and we spent rm300 for it, for me better keep the money for other use, not for clean a part that will get blocked again after sometime...
 
kyheng said:
Yeah, car mounting also is a cause, for carburetor car we can adust the nut/screw, but injection cannot, have to use machine to tune it. Anyway do we notice or not? When new proton wira manual when we drive is ok only, after sometime it start to vibrate or sometimes engine dead in the middle of traffic jam. Actually the timing stand 50% the other 50% is because the air intake to the injecter blocked by carbon. So when we don't know we go back to service center to increase the timing, then problem solved. This is totally wrong, on meter after adjust we see is 800rpm but actual is 1000-1100rpm already which is fuel consuming during idle. We can clean it by ourself on this. You can see after the air filter before to injecter got a joint, just take out the joint then open the spring loaded valve, after this use a clean cloth to wipe it. Finish install back and you will found the engine not that shaky. But this only applied to injection cars.



kyheng, i don really understand on ur tips the join u means is the rubber hose which connect from air filter to the air intake? and what is spring loaded valve
 
Ok, I try to take photo and upload it here... Hard to say, see the photo easier.
 
i had the same problem.. i sent my car for tuning ok d !:driver:
 
After tune sure ok, if after tune still cannot then more problem, now you only waste abit more fuel, nothing much. Before tune actual rpm 600-800, meter show same, after tune actual 800-1000 but meter still show 600-800. In long run you will feel why FC is higher.
 
Ok, I have upload the photos, sorry not that clear. From the photos you can see that there is a nut/screw that you have to open it. After you take it out you can see there is a valve that you have to open it at the back, then use a clean cloths to clean it and you will see alot of carbon on the cloth. After this you can try start back your engine and it will shake no more, or the engine die in the middle of the road....
 
if ur using wira 2002 above.. alwez get problem wit the TB.. acct no need 2 tune oso.. just take out air filter hos n tembak wd40 inside while remm remm the engine.. coz inside the TB dirty wan.. i did it 2 few cars n its okey..

PS don kene tipu wit mech that charge over 60 bucks n tell u must tune back.. as long u just cuci2 a bit n dont touch anything else.. its fine.. my 2 sen
 
e819 said:
if ur using wira 2002 above.. alwez get problem wit the TB.. acct no need 2 tune oso.. just take out air filter hos n tembak wd40 inside while remm remm the engine.. coz inside the TB dirty wan.. i did it 2 few cars n its okey..

PS don kene tipu wit mech that charge over 60 bucks n tell u must tune back.. as long u just cuci2 a bit n dont touch anything else.. its fine.. my 2 sen


Wahlau....
U sure the few cars u did still OK??

Pls do yourself and ur frens car a favour.
Buy a can of carb/throttle body cleaner from Brother's
WD40 does not clean ur TB....
Its adds a layer of oil in ur intake manifold for the dust to stick and collect gunk...
I dun know what other the ill fx of ur engine combusting WD40...
 
Actually WD40 is 'eating' the rust+ clean metal away, end of day it will have thinning on the part that always sprayed with WD40, anyway what does TB stands for?
 
yah yah... better buy proper carb/TB cleaner... i've got mine... i tembak tembak into my carburettor... now vr smooth adi my car... hehe...
 
this is basically due to the following reasons:-

1) mounting worn off -> you gotta get your mounting changed. normall change the whole set, costing around rm300-600 depending on quality.

2) dirty throttle body (TB) -> get a mechanic to clean it. no need to re-tune by P.Edar (coz i did it many many times already). costing around rm30-40.

3) ISC gear inside TB is faulty. Need to change but make sure you get some good quality ones. FYI, a good quality one, when it fits in, the rpm will stabilise, no need adjust here and there much. Some mechanic will blame your air-cond compressor no good, your mounting need balancing, your TB faulty, this and that. All are bull-shit, coz i tried many of these before and finally got fed-up and bought some good ones from spare-parts shop costing around rm70+ and it worked, almost 6mths already. not all spare part shops sells these good quality ones.

Note : very seldom you need to change a TB (costing >RM500), that's for sure.
 
So what is the ideal RPM setting for Protons? 700 or 800?

How much does the tuning cost? (For EFI [Injection])
 

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