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<blockquote data-quote="gavan" data-source="post: 994503" data-attributes="member: 2598"><p>hey hey, sorry for slow reply, erm, well, first thing first, to make sure you can get full performance out of your 1.0L engine is that the engine itself must be in good working condition :D then goes for the tuning ;)</p><p></p><p>btw, i do no recommend shaving of pins or whatever but i leave it more to tuning and tweaking the carb itself (good a/f ratio with proper timing)</p><p></p><p>first thing first, what are you searching for? for revving or more torque? there is a difference there if you would to compare them. so to my opinion, most young blooded people would want to increase their car's power, so what i suggest is that firstly you tune your carb according to the filter you are using, </p><p></p><p>for example you are using the stock filter:</p><p></p><p>do this with your engine turned off and also when your engine is already at its operating tempreture, means the engine is not cold starting.</p><p></p><p>firstly you turn your A/F screw to tighten it(clockwise) all the way in till it cant be tighthen anymore, then put a marking to that screw at one side. the marking will determaine the amount the screw has turned. (the small one located at the rear of the carb with the spring. its horizontally placed on the carb and it could be turned using a small screw driver/pliers;note:becareful when using pliers as you do not want to damage this screw~!. the other one, slightly dioganal in position is your idling screw)</p><p></p><p>then from there, unscrew it(anti-clockwise) 2 full rounds (720 degrees) and turn tighthen your idling screw slightly to make sure you can start your car ;) if the rev is high when you start it, let it be, you can tune it later when the A/F is proper. then from there, you listen to the engine tone and exhaust tone wether it has any irragular sounds like popping or anything that sounds like "ploob ploob ploob", if it is, unscrew the a/f screw by half turn (180 degreees) and be sure to rev the engine each time you do any changes to the screws as this would make sure everything is in place and proper. listen to the tone again, continue doing this(unscrewing it half turn) till your engine has no funny noise when it is operating.</p><p></p><p>owh, ive forgotten, i hope this tuning was done when you had your timing right, but nevertheless, below is the steps to tune your timing.</p><p></p><p>alright, now that is for the carb tuning, once you get that right the timing of the car needs to be adjusted to gain maxed performance or desired performance for your car.</p><p></p><p>alright, timing, you might be asking me, what the heck is that and where do i tune it, okie, its pretty simple, for a CB23, your timing is locared on the right side of the engine where the distrobutor is.(that brown colour thing with all the spark plugs wires going into it) yeah, well, if you noticed behind it facing the firewall there is a screw that is screwed to the distrobutor, its a bolt actually which is tightened to your engine. it only has one and when you loosen it, the distrobutor could be turned either clock wise or anti-clock wise. the movement of this thing is very limited tho, less than 90 degrees of movement only. the reason why i said loosen is and not remove it is tat because you would want your distrobutor coming out when your engine is running and this has to be tuned with your engine running(it could be done after you have done your a/f tuning)</p><p></p><p>okie, from what ive experianec is that by advancing your timing, you get better throttle response but you get less torque at low RPM's and vise versa if you would to retard it. retarding provides slightly better torque but less throttle response. and for NA cars, normally we would run our cars by advancing the timing a lil. do not advance it too much as this will cause pinging and it might make your engine go "KABOOM" or in other words, spoil it lar....</p><p></p><p>owh, ive forgotten to add, by advancing your timing, your petrol consumption will go up. but by retarding it, doesnt mean your consumption wil be less lar, just normal and not as high as when you advance it too much.</p><p></p><p>right, now to know wether you are advancing the timing or retarding it, when you turn the distrobutor thing, your engine will either rev higher or lower, revving higher means advancing of timing and lower means retarding it.</p><p></p><p>just a tip here, by advancing your timing, the tendacy to experiance vibrations in your car would go up and retarding it will give you less vibrations. so its your choice ;)</p><p></p><p>i hope you have a good time reading my story here. hope it helps you a lil. the concept is the same wether you are using open pod or stock, the tuning steps are the same.</p><p></p><p>for performance upgrades, you would need to couple the open pods with better flowing exhaust system and maybe some port and polish if you yearn for more power ;) later mods would be higher compression pistons, cams, etc etc etc and the list goes on.</p><p></p><p>tips on exhaust modifications, try following the original route of your exhaust piping but do go for a larger diameter exhaust pipe. this would provide you sufficient back pressure so you wont feel your car lacking power when on the highway. i would strongly suggest you not to use those piping that goes directly under your petrol tank and out to your rear in a straight line as this will give you more pick up and the sound is thunderous, some might like it but some wont and do not expect much for top end power with those kinda exhaust setup because all the back pressure is gone. this will also increase the consumption of your petrol if its not properly tuned. do rememeber, those straight flow exhaust is made for turbos where they would want the exhaust gasses out as fast as possible to gain maximum spooling power from their turbines ;) erm, okie, end here :D have fun tuning :lol:</p><p></p><p>p/s: sorry for lenghty post as i had nothing much to do ;) and do bring your car for a test drive after that, feel the differences then tune again, carb tuning all takes time and patience ;)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="gavan, post: 994503, member: 2598"] hey hey, sorry for slow reply, erm, well, first thing first, to make sure you can get full performance out of your 1.0L engine is that the engine itself must be in good working condition :D then goes for the tuning ;) btw, i do no recommend shaving of pins or whatever but i leave it more to tuning and tweaking the carb itself (good a/f ratio with proper timing) first thing first, what are you searching for? for revving or more torque? there is a difference there if you would to compare them. so to my opinion, most young blooded people would want to increase their car's power, so what i suggest is that firstly you tune your carb according to the filter you are using, for example you are using the stock filter: do this with your engine turned off and also when your engine is already at its operating tempreture, means the engine is not cold starting. firstly you turn your A/F screw to tighten it(clockwise) all the way in till it cant be tighthen anymore, then put a marking to that screw at one side. the marking will determaine the amount the screw has turned. (the small one located at the rear of the carb with the spring. its horizontally placed on the carb and it could be turned using a small screw driver/pliers;note:becareful when using pliers as you do not want to damage this screw~!. the other one, slightly dioganal in position is your idling screw) then from there, unscrew it(anti-clockwise) 2 full rounds (720 degrees) and turn tighthen your idling screw slightly to make sure you can start your car ;) if the rev is high when you start it, let it be, you can tune it later when the A/F is proper. then from there, you listen to the engine tone and exhaust tone wether it has any irragular sounds like popping or anything that sounds like "ploob ploob ploob", if it is, unscrew the a/f screw by half turn (180 degreees) and be sure to rev the engine each time you do any changes to the screws as this would make sure everything is in place and proper. listen to the tone again, continue doing this(unscrewing it half turn) till your engine has no funny noise when it is operating. owh, ive forgotten, i hope this tuning was done when you had your timing right, but nevertheless, below is the steps to tune your timing. alright, now that is for the carb tuning, once you get that right the timing of the car needs to be adjusted to gain maxed performance or desired performance for your car. alright, timing, you might be asking me, what the heck is that and where do i tune it, okie, its pretty simple, for a CB23, your timing is locared on the right side of the engine where the distrobutor is.(that brown colour thing with all the spark plugs wires going into it) yeah, well, if you noticed behind it facing the firewall there is a screw that is screwed to the distrobutor, its a bolt actually which is tightened to your engine. it only has one and when you loosen it, the distrobutor could be turned either clock wise or anti-clock wise. the movement of this thing is very limited tho, less than 90 degrees of movement only. the reason why i said loosen is and not remove it is tat because you would want your distrobutor coming out when your engine is running and this has to be tuned with your engine running(it could be done after you have done your a/f tuning) okie, from what ive experianec is that by advancing your timing, you get better throttle response but you get less torque at low RPM's and vise versa if you would to retard it. retarding provides slightly better torque but less throttle response. and for NA cars, normally we would run our cars by advancing the timing a lil. do not advance it too much as this will cause pinging and it might make your engine go "KABOOM" or in other words, spoil it lar.... owh, ive forgotten to add, by advancing your timing, your petrol consumption will go up. but by retarding it, doesnt mean your consumption wil be less lar, just normal and not as high as when you advance it too much. right, now to know wether you are advancing the timing or retarding it, when you turn the distrobutor thing, your engine will either rev higher or lower, revving higher means advancing of timing and lower means retarding it. just a tip here, by advancing your timing, the tendacy to experiance vibrations in your car would go up and retarding it will give you less vibrations. so its your choice ;) i hope you have a good time reading my story here. hope it helps you a lil. the concept is the same wether you are using open pod or stock, the tuning steps are the same. for performance upgrades, you would need to couple the open pods with better flowing exhaust system and maybe some port and polish if you yearn for more power ;) later mods would be higher compression pistons, cams, etc etc etc and the list goes on. tips on exhaust modifications, try following the original route of your exhaust piping but do go for a larger diameter exhaust pipe. this would provide you sufficient back pressure so you wont feel your car lacking power when on the highway. i would strongly suggest you not to use those piping that goes directly under your petrol tank and out to your rear in a straight line as this will give you more pick up and the sound is thunderous, some might like it but some wont and do not expect much for top end power with those kinda exhaust setup because all the back pressure is gone. this will also increase the consumption of your petrol if its not properly tuned. do rememeber, those straight flow exhaust is made for turbos where they would want the exhaust gasses out as fast as possible to gain maximum spooling power from their turbines ;) erm, okie, end here :D have fun tuning :lol: p/s: sorry for lenghty post as i had nothing much to do ;) and do bring your car for a test drive after that, feel the differences then tune again, carb tuning all takes time and patience ;) [/QUOTE]
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