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<blockquote data-quote="droll" data-source="post: 1064243921" data-attributes="member: 100509"><p>hmmmmmmm thanks for all the feedback. if i may summarise</p><p></p><p>1. clear coat is not removed by claying unless it is aggressive clay.</p><p>2. there are different types of clay (abrasive ones vs not so abrasive ones).</p><p>3. any form of sealant applied to the surface of the car could be slowly removed by claying but clear coat + paint won't be removed</p><p>4. #3 is not true if there is dirt on the clay or you are applying not enough lube (or too much pressure when claying).</p><p></p><p>my claying method is simple. after wash, before dry, spray on lots of diluted ONR (1 cap + about 500ml water). i never press the clay onto the surface of the car. i simply let it glide across the surface. the pressure that i apply is always to glide the clay across the surface only and never onto the surface.</p><p></p><p>also, i clay all windows + windscreen of the car every wash. the results are simply amazing (the way water beads off after that - looks almost as good as having a coating of optiseal on it).</p><p></p><p>i also clay and wash each panel before moving on. if the panel is too big (such as the bonnet), i will clay half and wash off before i clay the other half.</p><p></p><p>i normally swipe the clay 4-5 times and have a look at the surface before repeating. this is what i do for surfaces that usually get dirty very quickly. i'm paranoid about catching some large grit dirt on the clay and scratching the paint! for less dirty surfaces, i allow the bar to glide about twice as long.</p><p></p><p>i am also using the blue PG clay bar. i don't clay my whole car. i usually do the front parts and the parts where dirt can stick more easily such as near the lower sections of the wheel arch (my car doesn't have mud flaps so dirt tends to get splashed easily on the car body), bonnet, front bumper, and all glass surfaces. every 2-3 washes i then stop claying those parts and instead clay the other panels (doors, rear boot lid, rear bumper). once every 4-5 washes i do the roof. cannot tahan lah if clay the whole car every wash! but then again, claying more frequently also means the car is usually cleaner so the effort for each claying session is less (vs if you don't clay for a long time).</p><p></p><p>thanks for all the tips guys. i think i can rest easy now knowing the blue claybar i am using and my current practices won't cause any serious marring.</p><p></p><p>however, i think i will take advice from the sifus here. i will do wash + wax. it's just that i cannot tahan knowing the water coming out of my tap has rust in it and is dirty (you know lah - public water supply). so when i wash the car, there's this paranoid feeling that dirt is left on the surface and the wax won't stick as well. :)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="droll, post: 1064243921, member: 100509"] hmmmmmmm thanks for all the feedback. if i may summarise 1. clear coat is not removed by claying unless it is aggressive clay. 2. there are different types of clay (abrasive ones vs not so abrasive ones). 3. any form of sealant applied to the surface of the car could be slowly removed by claying but clear coat + paint won't be removed 4. #3 is not true if there is dirt on the clay or you are applying not enough lube (or too much pressure when claying). my claying method is simple. after wash, before dry, spray on lots of diluted ONR (1 cap + about 500ml water). i never press the clay onto the surface of the car. i simply let it glide across the surface. the pressure that i apply is always to glide the clay across the surface only and never onto the surface. also, i clay all windows + windscreen of the car every wash. the results are simply amazing (the way water beads off after that - looks almost as good as having a coating of optiseal on it). i also clay and wash each panel before moving on. if the panel is too big (such as the bonnet), i will clay half and wash off before i clay the other half. i normally swipe the clay 4-5 times and have a look at the surface before repeating. this is what i do for surfaces that usually get dirty very quickly. i'm paranoid about catching some large grit dirt on the clay and scratching the paint! for less dirty surfaces, i allow the bar to glide about twice as long. i am also using the blue PG clay bar. i don't clay my whole car. i usually do the front parts and the parts where dirt can stick more easily such as near the lower sections of the wheel arch (my car doesn't have mud flaps so dirt tends to get splashed easily on the car body), bonnet, front bumper, and all glass surfaces. every 2-3 washes i then stop claying those parts and instead clay the other panels (doors, rear boot lid, rear bumper). once every 4-5 washes i do the roof. cannot tahan lah if clay the whole car every wash! but then again, claying more frequently also means the car is usually cleaner so the effort for each claying session is less (vs if you don't clay for a long time). thanks for all the tips guys. i think i can rest easy now knowing the blue claybar i am using and my current practices won't cause any serious marring. however, i think i will take advice from the sifus here. i will do wash + wax. it's just that i cannot tahan knowing the water coming out of my tap has rust in it and is dirty (you know lah - public water supply). so when i wash the car, there's this paranoid feeling that dirt is left on the surface and the wax won't stick as well. :) [/QUOTE]
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