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<blockquote data-quote="WAFS" data-source="post: 4182837" data-attributes="member: 8087"><p>Sizlo, what slick said about the momentum and weight is true. This is because when tyres are loaded to its maximum slip angle (hence max traction), the tyres just slip (and lose grip) so in your case the front tyre has reached it maximum slip angle so the car understeers. However, you are true also that tyres need to be loaded to get grip but only until it reach the tyre slip angle. A tyre slip angle/load graph is linear until it reach maximum and then there's a plateu then it drops. A higher grip tyre has higher limit of slip and has longer plateu. There are also some tyres that has higher limit with short plateu or just drop like racing slick tyre. So it varies with different tyres. </p><p></p><p>The tyre that you use reached its slip angle fast...so the solution to get a better tyre. Sometimes the suspension of the car is not suitable with some tyres. Like the dc5 suspension it's tuned for the re040 tyres. Although the re040 is an old tyre, but the damper/shock was tuned for it to get a good roll rate with the tyre.</p><p></p><p>A better shock absorber like turbulence mentioned will have higher roll rate so the load/weight transfer is more controlled, so it makes the tyre reach it's maximum slip later. Get an adjustable shocks/coilover and you can control slightly the damping thus your roll rate. Usually the adjustable will come with higher rating spring and this will give less roll angle too. </p><p></p><p>Another quick solution is get a ultra-high-performance tyre (UHP) like Yoko Advan Neova AD08, Goodyear Eagle RS Sport, Toyo R1R, Kumho Ecsta XS, Bridgestone Potenze RE01R or RE11, etc. Semi-slick tyres that can be used on the road also can like Toyo R888(but not for wet) These tyres has higher maximum slip and traction. </p><p></p><p>On the other hand...on car control, when the car understeers, don't turn the steering too much (this makes the tyres reached its maximum slip angle), instead lift-off the throttle to counter the understeer. Then when the car is back on its cornering line gently press the throttle and drive. If it doesn't comes back when you lift-off then it's your tyres or suspension setup that you need to change. Maybe you already know this but I just mentioned just in case.<span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"><span style="font-size: 9px">---------- Post added at 05:13 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:22 PM ----------</span></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span>Understeer - Front slip angle > Rear slip angle</p><p>Oversteer - Rear slip angle > Front slip angle</p><p>Neutral steer - Front slip angle = Rear slip angle</p><p></p><p>Other terms, </p><p>Understeer - More steering angle needed in a turn</p><p>Oversteer - Less steering angle needed in a turn</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WAFS, post: 4182837, member: 8087"] Sizlo, what slick said about the momentum and weight is true. This is because when tyres are loaded to its maximum slip angle (hence max traction), the tyres just slip (and lose grip) so in your case the front tyre has reached it maximum slip angle so the car understeers. However, you are true also that tyres need to be loaded to get grip but only until it reach the tyre slip angle. A tyre slip angle/load graph is linear until it reach maximum and then there's a plateu then it drops. A higher grip tyre has higher limit of slip and has longer plateu. There are also some tyres that has higher limit with short plateu or just drop like racing slick tyre. So it varies with different tyres. The tyre that you use reached its slip angle fast...so the solution to get a better tyre. Sometimes the suspension of the car is not suitable with some tyres. Like the dc5 suspension it's tuned for the re040 tyres. Although the re040 is an old tyre, but the damper/shock was tuned for it to get a good roll rate with the tyre. A better shock absorber like turbulence mentioned will have higher roll rate so the load/weight transfer is more controlled, so it makes the tyre reach it's maximum slip later. Get an adjustable shocks/coilover and you can control slightly the damping thus your roll rate. Usually the adjustable will come with higher rating spring and this will give less roll angle too. Another quick solution is get a ultra-high-performance tyre (UHP) like Yoko Advan Neova AD08, Goodyear Eagle RS Sport, Toyo R1R, Kumho Ecsta XS, Bridgestone Potenze RE01R or RE11, etc. Semi-slick tyres that can be used on the road also can like Toyo R888(but not for wet) These tyres has higher maximum slip and traction. On the other hand...on car control, when the car understeers, don't turn the steering too much (this makes the tyres reached its maximum slip angle), instead lift-off the throttle to counter the understeer. Then when the car is back on its cornering line gently press the throttle and drive. If it doesn't comes back when you lift-off then it's your tyres or suspension setup that you need to change. Maybe you already know this but I just mentioned just in case.[COLOR="Silver"] [SIZE=1]---------- Post added at 05:13 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:22 PM ----------[/SIZE] [/COLOR]Understeer - Front slip angle > Rear slip angle Oversteer - Rear slip angle > Front slip angle Neutral steer - Front slip angle = Rear slip angle Other terms, Understeer - More steering angle needed in a turn Oversteer - Less steering angle needed in a turn [/QUOTE]
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