Menu
Home
Post Something
Forums
Current Activity
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
News & Features
The Marketplace
Cars for Sale
Engine and Performance
Chassis and Wheels
Exterior and Body
Interior and Cockpit
ICE - In Car Entertainment
Car Shops and Services
Toys and Wares
All Other Stuff
Jobs and Vacancies
Looking For
Members
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
Current Activity
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Reply to thread
See what others are reading now! Try Forums >
Current Activity
Home
Forums
Main Forums
Interests
Do-It-Yourself Garage
[DIY] Replacing A/C Compressor Belt
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="drexchan" data-source="post: 1085642" data-attributes="member: 6936"><p>Didn't take any photo due to time constrain.</p><p></p><p>Basically, the belt started to give me the annoying "chet chet chet" sound whenever it gets hot. SC says no need to change since it will cost a lot if I let them touch it.</p><p></p><p>It's been a year or so. Tried tightening the adjuster bolt, adding lubricant (top glide), silicone grease but non of them seems to be able to solve the problem for more that a hour drive.</p><p></p><p>Finally gave up so decided to take the belt out to clean it. </p><p></p><p>Simple, but since it was the first attempt, I took about 1.5 hour to remove it, with the aid of a RM15 LED torch light, at night.</p><p></p><p>Tools: 12mm spaner, 13mm spaner, 8mm spaner. Better if you have the sockets and rachet as well.</p><p></p><p>Steps:</p><p>(applicable to S-VDO wira with Patco compressor)</p><p></p><p>1. loosen the 13mm tightening bolt on top of the compressor.</p><p>2. loosen the two 13mm bolts at the bottom of the compressor.</p><p>3. loosen the 12mm adjuster bolt (long one) sufficient enough to let you push the compressor towards the engine block, to loosen the belt.</p><p>4. remove the 8mm bolt securing the crank pulley magnetic timing sensor, remove the sensor from it's bracket.</p><p>5. the belt can now be taken out.</p><p></p><p>-----------------</p><p></p><p>So, washed the belt as well as the compressor pulley. Found out that the belt had a small crack. But was too late to get a replacement. So tighten back everything without the belt (leae the adjuster bolt as it is). My wife just need to drive the car the next day without the a/c lar..</p><p></p><p>So, the next day, got the belt (BANDO SP-RAF, 3290) from the sparepart shop I know quite well. Did a fast replacement job in 30 minutes. Basically just reversing the procedures above. </p><p></p><p>You need quite a lot of strength to push the compressor towards the engine, an at the same time sloting the belt into the pulley. Did it alone as there isn't much space for 2 person to work together.</p><p></p><p>It's as quiet as a baby. But I can hear other noises clearer. Some are from the injectors, some are from within the cam cover, some (I hope not) are from the timing belt. Got to tackle them one by one (except those from the injectors). Still noisy, but much quieter.</p><p></p><p>Cost? RM8. :D</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="drexchan, post: 1085642, member: 6936"] Didn't take any photo due to time constrain. Basically, the belt started to give me the annoying "chet chet chet" sound whenever it gets hot. SC says no need to change since it will cost a lot if I let them touch it. It's been a year or so. Tried tightening the adjuster bolt, adding lubricant (top glide), silicone grease but non of them seems to be able to solve the problem for more that a hour drive. Finally gave up so decided to take the belt out to clean it. Simple, but since it was the first attempt, I took about 1.5 hour to remove it, with the aid of a RM15 LED torch light, at night. Tools: 12mm spaner, 13mm spaner, 8mm spaner. Better if you have the sockets and rachet as well. Steps: (applicable to S-VDO wira with Patco compressor) 1. loosen the 13mm tightening bolt on top of the compressor. 2. loosen the two 13mm bolts at the bottom of the compressor. 3. loosen the 12mm adjuster bolt (long one) sufficient enough to let you push the compressor towards the engine block, to loosen the belt. 4. remove the 8mm bolt securing the crank pulley magnetic timing sensor, remove the sensor from it's bracket. 5. the belt can now be taken out. ----------------- So, washed the belt as well as the compressor pulley. Found out that the belt had a small crack. But was too late to get a replacement. So tighten back everything without the belt (leae the adjuster bolt as it is). My wife just need to drive the car the next day without the a/c lar.. So, the next day, got the belt (BANDO SP-RAF, 3290) from the sparepart shop I know quite well. Did a fast replacement job in 30 minutes. Basically just reversing the procedures above. You need quite a lot of strength to push the compressor towards the engine, an at the same time sloting the belt into the pulley. Did it alone as there isn't much space for 2 person to work together. It's as quiet as a baby. But I can hear other noises clearer. Some are from the injectors, some are from within the cam cover, some (I hope not) are from the timing belt. Got to tackle them one by one (except those from the injectors). Still noisy, but much quieter. Cost? RM8. :D [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
The Marketplace Latest
Vifa Speakers Audison Amp
Started by
samuel118
ICE -In Car Entertainment
original rare Yokohama ADVAN Racing RG3 18x8.5...
Started by
david tao
Chassis and Wheels
Carbing R35 GTR GTR35 Brake Master Cylinder Stopper
Started by
aycy
Engine and Performance
GR Corolla Hypertune Bolt On Intercooler
Started by
aycy
Engine and Performance
Carbing Radiator Reservoir Tank Honda Civic Type R FL5
Started by
aycy
Engine and Performance
R35 GTR GTR35 Rim Wheel TE37 Track Edition
Started by
aycy
Chassis and Wheels
Endless Racing Mono6 + Racing Mono4 R35 GTR GTR35...
Started by
aycy
Engine and Performance
WOT Dual Oil Cooler Kit Civic Type R FL5
Started by
aycy
Engine and Performance
Mugen MF10 Black Edition 18x9.5J+45 FL5 FK8 Type R...
Started by
aycy
Chassis and Wheels
BBS RI-A God Spec Civic Type R FL5 18x10j+40
Started by
aycy
Chassis and Wheels
Posts refresh every 5 minutes
(m) Altezza
Im looking for the above....anyone selling.? pls do pm me ur very best price. thanx guys
grey tezza recon 02
Hye guys out there,
Im looking around this baby. as for now, i like a recon tezza 02 for 125k / 30k mileage in cheras. BUT, I have couple questions:
1) is it a good deal?
2) i heard that a grey tezza is kinda...
CAI
[attachmentid=44956]Does anyone noe where to find the hose use to do CAI. the type of hose that can be bend..
Recent Posts
Recommendation: Turbocharger for 4B11 N.A engine
Started by
Mitevo7
Car Modification
2026 Vios HEV launched with Local Battery Assembly - UMW Toyota Motor
Started by
The_Mechanic
News and Features
SPPF: The Future of Automotive Surface Protection - A Technical Overview
Started by
The_Mechanic
News and Features
Upping Wira 1.5 MMC performance
Started by
Nyfka
Car Modification
Volvo Malaysia Launches Locally Assembled ES90 Electric Sedan
Started by
The_Mechanic
News and Features
Search
Online now
Enjoying Zerotohundred?
Log-in
for an ad-less experience
Home
Forums
Main Forums
Interests
Do-It-Yourself Garage
[DIY] Replacing A/C Compressor Belt