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Message: <blockquote data-quote="g4i8y0t" data-source="post: 1064669877" data-attributes="member: 98220">Hi guys. I would like to share my experience building a voltage stabilizer for my old Civic. The purpose of this device, as with all automotive voltage stabilizers, is to reduce electrical noise and distortions within the vehicle. Electrical noise comes from distributor, alternator, automatic transmission solenoids, certain relays etc.Okay, back to the main story. First, after figuring out the space available under the bonnet and taking the measurements, I design the circuit using a circuit design software. The only suitable place I can find is between the battery and intake manifold. I want to have around 100,000uF of total capacitance. After researching on the internet, I found out that in order for the voltage stabilizer to 'absorb' or dampen many types of electrical noises within the car, it is also important to reduce the ESR (equivalent series resistance) so that the currents from the electrical noise can easily flow in and out of the device. So in this case, instead of using some big capacitors like the 50,000uF monsters, I use many smaller ones.<img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160726_170439ed.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />3D view of the design:<img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160726_170520ed.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />It turns out I can only fit 14 units of 4700uF 35V caps and 11 units of 2200uF 35V caps within the space available. The total capacitance is 90,000uF, pretty close to my target. Next, I use a rapid prototyping CnC machine to fabricate the printed circuit board (PCB). Modern tech certainly made life easier. No more messing around with the nasty ferric chloride PCB etching solution. <img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/thefinger.gif"  class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":thefinger:" title="Thefinger    :thefinger:" data-shortname=":thefinger:" /><img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160727_115853.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /><img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160727_121455ed.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />The completed bare board:<img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160727_124035ed.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />After the caps are soldered:<img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160727_180706ed.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />I put a 20 amp fuse for protection:<img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160727_151448ed.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />Hot glue is applied between the caps to make them more rigid. Engine vibrations can make solder joints crack.<img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160731_153202ed_1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />The main copper tracks are soldered with extra layer of lead to lower the resistance and improve current carrying capacity:<img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160728_162910ed.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />I made up the casing using some wood planks. Hopefully the low heat conductivity of wood will increase the life of the capacitors. Living under the bonnet sure will suck the life out of them. :rolleyes:<img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160728_172033ed.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />I drill some holes for the PCB stand and put some industrial resin there to support it.<img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160802_172244ed.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />After the + and - wires are soldered, the board is put into the wooden box.<img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160806_155549ed_1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />After the connectors are put to the wire ends, I use some heat shrink tube to secure them. The device is now completed. <img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/love.gif"  class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":love:" title="Love    :love:" data-shortname=":love:" /><img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160806_170538ed.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />I secure it to the battery using cable ties. The box is actually supported by the battery holder.<img src="http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/armanddoplv/IMG_20160806_194219ed_1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />I haven't got time to test this device yet. I'll let you guys know the results later. <img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/listen.gif"  class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":listen:" title="Listen    :listen:" data-shortname=":listen:" /></blockquote>

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