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<blockquote data-quote="EFN" data-source="post: 234714" data-attributes="member: 1416"><p>just to add a bit here.....yolk's 20 is not a Silver or Black - it's a Hybrid GREYTop 20V NON-VVT monster rojak tuned by TRIAL Tuning Spirit hahahahaha.........</p><p></p><p>*alamak kena tembak after this*</p><p></p><p></p><p>OK, back to the point.</p><p>For EE100 or AE101, like yolk said, it is best to save your money and get AE101 Wagon or FXGT halfcut. Yes you will end up paying more but the results will be very satisfactory. Your car will look nicely "stock" and not like some Frankenstien patch-up. Installing a Levin/Trueno AE101 or AE111 Dashboard require a lot of skill and patience and most mechanics are not very good at it. Even if they managed to install them properly....still senget-senget a bit here and there hahahahaha</p><p></p><p>I have driven and owned both Silvertop and Blacktop. go for Silvertop only if you are on a really tight budget and have no plans to go faster. Yes you can say that buy Silvertop cheap-cheap and mod it into a monster high revving NA machine, but the cost would be similiar to selling your backside day-in-day-out. better buy a Blacktop which is already equipped with much more responsive system like:</p><p></p><p>- MAP Sensor ECU - much ipmroved fueling & ignition map</p><p>- Lightweight Flywheel (1.5Kg Lighter than Blacktop)</p><p>- Better 4-2-1 OEM Header</p><p>- Better head flow design</p><p>- Bigger Throttle Bodies</p><p>- Higher Lift Intake Camshaft (0.23mm higher)</p><p>- Lighter & More Balanced Con-rods, Pistons & Crankshaft</p><p>- C56 Close Ratio 5SP Manual Transmission or C160 6 Speed Close Ratios</p><p>- Head Design less prone to engine knocks/pings</p><p>- Less prone to "Leaning Out" AFR issues</p><p>- Smarter VVT operation (controlled by RPM & Throttle Position Sensor)</p><p>- it's Black in Colour hahahahaha</p><p></p><p>BUT ALL 20V Crankshaft and Con-Rods ARE FORGED! </p><p>And if you plan to go for <strong>hardcore</strong>Forced Induction boosting - buy a Silvertop - the block are from Ribbed Stiffener Boss type. And Silvertop are soo f***king cheap and easy to find if you blow them into pieces everytime you boost too much hahahahaha.</p><p></p><p>BOTH Silvertop and Blacktop are very reliable motors, but they do have their own problems just like any other engines. With hard usage, you'll find that you might worn out the Crank-Bearing and Con-Rod Bearings, same goes with Piston Rings and Headgaskets. And ALL OF THEM ARE VERY NOISY - worse than any diesel taxi - like yolk mentioned earlier too - this is because of valve-shims clearance and aged VVT pulley.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="EFN, post: 234714, member: 1416"] just to add a bit here.....yolk's 20 is not a Silver or Black - it's a Hybrid GREYTop 20V NON-VVT monster rojak tuned by TRIAL Tuning Spirit hahahahaha......... *alamak kena tembak after this* OK, back to the point. For EE100 or AE101, like yolk said, it is best to save your money and get AE101 Wagon or FXGT halfcut. Yes you will end up paying more but the results will be very satisfactory. Your car will look nicely "stock" and not like some Frankenstien patch-up. Installing a Levin/Trueno AE101 or AE111 Dashboard require a lot of skill and patience and most mechanics are not very good at it. Even if they managed to install them properly....still senget-senget a bit here and there hahahahaha I have driven and owned both Silvertop and Blacktop. go for Silvertop only if you are on a really tight budget and have no plans to go faster. Yes you can say that buy Silvertop cheap-cheap and mod it into a monster high revving NA machine, but the cost would be similiar to selling your backside day-in-day-out. better buy a Blacktop which is already equipped with much more responsive system like: - MAP Sensor ECU - much ipmroved fueling & ignition map - Lightweight Flywheel (1.5Kg Lighter than Blacktop) - Better 4-2-1 OEM Header - Better head flow design - Bigger Throttle Bodies - Higher Lift Intake Camshaft (0.23mm higher) - Lighter & More Balanced Con-rods, Pistons & Crankshaft - C56 Close Ratio 5SP Manual Transmission or C160 6 Speed Close Ratios - Head Design less prone to engine knocks/pings - Less prone to "Leaning Out" AFR issues - Smarter VVT operation (controlled by RPM & Throttle Position Sensor) - it's Black in Colour hahahahaha BUT ALL 20V Crankshaft and Con-Rods ARE FORGED! And if you plan to go for [b]hardcore[/b]Forced Induction boosting - buy a Silvertop - the block are from Ribbed Stiffener Boss type. And Silvertop are soo f***king cheap and easy to find if you blow them into pieces everytime you boost too much hahahahaha. BOTH Silvertop and Blacktop are very reliable motors, but they do have their own problems just like any other engines. With hard usage, you'll find that you might worn out the Crank-Bearing and Con-Rod Bearings, same goes with Piston Rings and Headgaskets. And ALL OF THEM ARE VERY NOISY - worse than any diesel taxi - like yolk mentioned earlier too - this is because of valve-shims clearance and aged VVT pulley. [/QUOTE]
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