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Message: <blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 2934118" data-attributes="member: 27518">Well, shit does happen. I remember the times when people were upping revs on stock B16a and breaking blocks and ruining heads every so often.Sometimes its user error/idiocity(cough!), but then again, some shops also must be responsible for the work, and state the possible risks for the mod (at the risk of sales? that's a problem) so that's why these things happen, where user blames the part, because he did not understand the risk associated with using forged pistons without adhering to proper requirements. But occasionally SOME parts do arrive with defects, so it's also the responsiblity of the buyer, seller AND the installer to look over the part prior to installation, and to honor any warranties if required. My first Auxbox was actually faulty, and fortunately the shop I bought it from honored the warranty and gave me a one on one exchange.Over here, modding is still at its infancy,and most modders don't even understand ring gap(sealing vs. heat/friction), required clearances, material ductility (stretching/brittleness/hardness) and even spring hysteresis (valve springs/sus springs don't last forever without taking a set), and that's another reason why things break or spoil, Some don't even realise the NEED for maintainance.Sometimes buyers also don't ask questions either, but worry on hp readouts, which means little to a person that doesn't know how to read it and only concerns him/herself with peak numbers. but because it's simple to understand at first glance, that's what the general public thinks.For a daily driver that sees 1-3K rpm, the most important area in the torque readout is the 1-3k rpm range, not the peak power generated at 9500 rpm, which you see for like 1/2 a sec before you shift.Oh well, big hp readouts are still bragging rights, and that's not likely to change until our local mags start explaining how to read dyno charts, and what it means.</blockquote>

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