HONDATA ECUs? Where lah?

[simplycomplexed]

where can i get the Hondata ECUs which are more compatible with the B18C?
and workshops who tune these ECUs best are?

in KL la i mean...

 

[shiroitenshi]

Chris from Pentagon,
Tuners, I think most of them already know how to tune hondata, because playing with powerfc's datalogit, in terms of mapping, they are quite similar.

 

[simplycomplexed]

oh... harlo sifu...
Pentagon... okok... thanks..

i actually wanna self tune but i only know basics only.. = ( so i cant self tune unless i do lots of research first. lol

 

[eddie_vtec]

JC Asia sunway(amoil)...i think jc dealer hondata....

 

[J101]

Hondata Website
Hondata - Honda ECU Modification and Enhancement

JC Racing Sunway - Authorised Dealer
JC Racing- Tuners & Accessories

where can i get the Hondata ECUs which are more compatible with the B18C?
and workshops who tune these ECUs best are?

in KL la i mean...

 

[dcloo]

y u all guys din choose microtek lt10s/ crome/haltech

 

[simplycomplexed]

y u all guys din choose microtek lt10s/ crome/haltech

well, i MIGHT be thinking of force-inducting a B18C and so apparently, word is that... if you have a laptop computer and the equipment to burn ROM chips you can tune the ECU yourself.

and i'm dont really know about other ECUs, so enlighten me. :D cos i dont know sh_t.

 

[shiroitenshi]

Well, I think I finally figured out an idea to tune turbos agressively without risking detonation at higher boosts, but I don't play turbo(yet) so this remains a theory at best.

One risk of tuning turbos is running too high an ignition value and causing pre-ignition/detonation, that really kills your engine. The thing with turbos is that as you run higher boost pressures, even slight knocking is enough to kill your engine, unlike NA, where slight knocking is tolerable to a certain extent.

One thing I think is helpful is by monitoring the cylinder head temps (CHT), because they show temp buildup faster than what exhaust temp esp. since the exh temp is usually mounted far away from the primary header bends will show. Assuming you know the safe limit of CHT, then you can tune your turbo aggresively without risking pre-ignition/detonation.

Well, if you plan to turbocharge, one thing I worry about is figuring out the ignition timing at higher boost levels. At high boost, the engine is not so tolerant to misfires and knocking/detonation. what I think is currently happening is that most tune conservatively, so although it generates a lot of power, there's probably leeway for more.

 

[dcloo]

well, i MIGHT be thinking of force-inducting a B18C and so apparently, word is that... if you have a laptop computer and the equipment to burn ROM chips you can tune the ECU yourself.

and i'm dont really know about other ECUs, so enlighten me. :D cos i dont know sh_t.

just pay the rm 400 to get tuned by tuner easy

for more sample of chart
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/tech-engine-management-monitoring/153993-crome-tuner-from-kl-2.html#post2521553

some of latest crome fine tune car 227 whp 21.93 torque

http://foto.home.net.my/img/13961/dsc00754.jpg

 

[evoX2]

B20B is it? or is that ur monster, dcloo? the power band is so smooth, no more vtec spike.

 

[J101]

graph should have supporting modification specs

 

[simplycomplexed]

that's how it should be isnt it?
cos when i really didnt know much (i still dont know much at all), all i heard was like "Wahhhh... when the VTEC kicks in hor, it's dam shiok weh!"

then i realise that there shouldnt be any "kick" and the band should be smooth.... hmm...

shoot me if me wrong..

 

[shiroitenshi]

Actually the 'kick' you mentioned is because of the cams.

Some cams like the type R will have it, because the non-vtec lobe and the vtec lobe quite far apart. You can tune it out, but well... depends on if you like it or not. Usually if you want to eliminate it, just put the vtec point a few hundred rpm later, that usually works, if you don't have a standalone, but just a piggyback like VAFC.. if you open earlier/just right (depends on what you think is right), sometimes there's a spike, and that's what we feel as the 'vtec has kicked in yo!' thing.

For cams like the toda's, and some others, even the primary lobe is already high, so usually these kinds of cam have very smooth vtec transition (usually near 6K and up)

 

[evoX2]

Actually the 'kick' you mentioned is because of the cams.

Some cams like the type R will have it, because the non-vtec lobe and the vtec lobe quite far apart. You can tune it out, but well... depends on if you like it or not. Usually if you want to eliminate it, just put the vtec point a few hundred rpm later, that usually works, if you don't have a standalone, but just a piggyback like VAFC.. if you open earlier/just right (depends on what you think is right), sometimes there's a spike, and that's what we feel as the 'vtec has kicked in yo!' thing.

For cams like the toda's, and some others, even the primary lobe is already high, so usually these kinds of cam have very smooth vtec transition (usually near 6K and up)

Actually does the map with vtec spike make more power or the smooth power band?
Though i know most people really does like the vtec kick in yo

 

[chris2000]

graph should have supporting modification specs

To share with you guys then

A test done in August 2007.

Stock B18C-R Bottom end except milled slightly to ensure flat
B16A head fully hand ported by my sifu with valve angle job
Omni Power Valve Springs + Omni Power Ti Retainer

Engine was running since last year August, used for a 7 hour MME race before retirement due to gearbox, then used it for 2 MSS race and a few sunday track days.

In August this year, with the same engine which is already very tired and losing compression, i decide to just bolt on some more parts to test before re-building the engine this month,

So addition (some new & some old) to the old and tired engine before it is tuned with Hondata:-

Intake Side
---------------
Skunk2 Pro-Series Intake Manifold
J's Racing 65mm Throttle Body
Velocity Stacked with K&N filter

Exhaust Side
-----------------
DC 4-1 Race header
Skunk2 Megapower R race exhaust

Head
-------
Full porting with valve angle and head milled to increase compression
Omni Power Valve Springs + Ti Retainer
CTR valves
BC 4+ Cams

Block
-------
100% Std 87.2mm crank, std rods, std 81mm piston, std rings
Block milled to ensure straight ness.

Tuned with Hondata S300 with peak power a/f at 12.8 a tappering down to 12.5 at rev cut.

Results on dyno-dynamic 188.5whp @ 8800rpm and average torque of 125wFtlb.

Nothing to shout about but i felt it is decent considering the loss of compression on an old engine.

Dyno Chart http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j178/thtan777/B18CBC4.jpg

 

[shiroitenshi]

To share with you guys then

A test done in August 2007.

Stock B18C-R Bottom end except milled slightly to ensure flat
B16A head fully hand ported by my sifu with valve angle job
Omni Power Valve Springs + Omni Power Ti Retainer

Engine was running since last year August, used for a 7 hour MME race before retirement due to gearbox, then used it for 2 MSS race and a few sunday track days.

In August this year, with the same engine which is already very tired and losing compression, i decide to just bolt on some more parts to test before re-building the engine this month,

So addition (some new & some old) to the old and tired engine before it is tuned with Hondata:-

Intake Side
---------------
Skunk2 Pro-Series Intake Manifold
J's Racing 65mm Throttle Body
Velocity Stacked with K&N filter

Exhaust Side
-----------------
DC 4-1 Race header
Skunk2 Megapower R race exhaust

Head
-------
Full porting with valve angle and head milled to increase compression
Omni Power Valve Springs + Ti Retainer
CTR valves
BC 4+ Cams

Block
-------
100% Std 87.2mm crank, std rods, std 81mm piston, std rings
Block milled to ensure straight ness.

Tuned with Hondata S300 with peak power a/f at 12.8 a tappering down to 12.5 at rev cut.

Results on dyno-dynamic 188.5whp @ 8800rpm and average torque of 125wFtlb.

Nothing to shout about but i felt it is decent considering the loss of compression on an old engine.

Dyno Chart http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j178/thtan777/B18CBC4.jpg

Woah.. 188 atw.. with compression loss, heh.
BTW, why is there a torque spike at lower end of the RPM? it seems you're making better torque at lower revs than at high revs.. (O_o)

BTW, a slight note, the s300j has quite an aggresive low end ignition numbers I had mine retarded at 1-2 degs, while the upper maps I increased 1-2 degs. But that's the general idea, the end result was far from the stock version, as I based my ignition increases/decreases based on fuel maps and AFR.

Before my compression loss, it only takes me about 2secs+ to rev from 5+K rev drop in first to 8.3K :P

Oh well, hope fully the valve job (after I get the valves) would curb that problem. I'm contemplating a bit of compression increase from use of low comp valves, but results have to wait till later.

188whp is still not too shabby.. but it's hard to stay competitive when everyone else is making more, isn't it? (O_o)

EvoX2,
The torque spike at vtec is usually higher in most cases, but mine is not, my torque peak at 7.5K rpm is higher than my vtec cross over point at 5.8K. I think you've seen the chart before when I posted in zth. I just hope the cam settings don't go off when the engine work is being worked on, or it'd probably be hours of trial and error to get it back.

Hopefully I'll hit the region of 170-180whp at 8K when I up the compression when my engine is out for maintainance this october/november.

Still, I wonder how much work it will be to get the new valves to seat properly in the old seats.(>_>) hopefully not too much, machine shop work mean I need a lot of time, which I don't have.

 

[dcloo]

from the graph of dyno i could c the car lag of timing from rang 3000-5000 rpm its could doing more better

from the graph the cam hold up to btw 8600-8700 rpm n start drop
maybe its cause by compression loss

 

[evoX2]

usually what caused to loss compression? worn out piston rings? what else?

Btw Chris, does ur skunk2 manifold produced some sort whistle noise around 2500-3500rpm when not in full throttle? mine sometimes got this weird noise but my mech check no leaking...weird :hmmmm:

 

[J101]

he still tunes s200. 1050 is healthy as we speak :)

The 1 that I hear to tune hondata is Anuar Jln Ipoh... EF 1050 RIP....

 

[shiroitenshi]

Hehehe... well if you guys want to know see my ignition map, here.

Don't use it in your car though, because I only tuned up to 8.5K, not 9K, the 9K is extrapolated. If you use and suffer knocking, then obviously it's not suited for your engine. So if you feel like using (USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.)

only part throttle is not tuned, as you can see, it's still stock S300 mapping for part throttle probably with 1deg-2deg +/- adjustment.. I could be fickle at tune it, but meh, time issues.

I can run my car in open loop mode though, Becaused I spent a lot of time tuning the bottom end for more response for daily driving purposes.

download_temp.skl means I downloaded it from my ECU.

Current compression loss is worrisome and irritating.
Piston
1: 160ish (sort of expected it, because it was already at 195 when I dynoed the car at 160+whp.
2: 220
3: 220
4: 215 (also not so good already)