Menu
Home
Post Something
Forums
Current Activity
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
News & Features
The Marketplace
Cars for Sale
Engine and Performance
Chassis and Wheels
Exterior and Body
Interior and Cockpit
ICE - In Car Entertainment
Car Shops and Services
Toys and Wares
All Other Stuff
Jobs and Vacancies
Looking For
Members
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
Current Activity
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Reply to thread
See what others are reading now! Try Forums >
Current Activity
Home
Forums
Car Clubs
Car Club Categories
The Cefiro Club Malaysia
Insulation!!
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="defcon1" data-source="post: 1768309" data-attributes="member: 30064"><p>Ok...this coming weekend, I'll complete the floorboards, and I think, the two front doors.</p><p></p><p>After working with the bitumen flash strips for a while, I've come to the conclusion that it works well on parts of the car the don't heat up, whereas, on the parts that do, you WILL want to use some better material.</p><p></p><p>Hence, Bitumen strips you would use on...</p><p></p><p>a) Boot area but make sure you layer over it with Insuflex or some equivalent material to soak up anything that may ooze out expecially above the muffler.</p><p></p><p>b) Rear wheel wells - ok. also layer with Insuflex.</p><p></p><p>c) Rear seats - you might not have the space to layer with insuflex. But there is already a bitumen sheet there (factory applied), so you only need to dampen around it, if necessary.</p><p></p><p>d) Floorboards up to the pedals - no problems here. Insuflex layering will definitely help. Make sure you cut holes for all the difficult areas like the rails for the front seats, etc. You may want to avoid layering areas where the original plastic mouldings meet the body as it will be darn difficult to get the mouldings back in place again.</p><p></p><p>For the firewall, and doors, you will probably want to use better material. I cannot anticipate 2 things...</p><p></p><p>a) That the bitumin will continue to stick even when the firewall or skin of the car door is hot. 50 degrees C is probably still ok. 60 degrees C is pushing it. Even though the material is rated to 80 degrees C, I don't feel like using my car for a test vehicle, considering that if it fails, I'm the one who is going to have to clean it up... <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1425" alt=":smile:" title="Smile :smile:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":smile:" /></p><p></p><p>b) How hot the firewall or skin will heat up to under various conditions. Don't forget...when you stick bitumin eg. on the outer skin of the door, you also compromise the heat radiating capacity of the door material itself, so it will probably "pool" heat in the metal. A car door in mid-afternoon sunlight could possibly reach 55 degrees C or more.</p><p></p><p>So, I've finally called Grexer and ordered half a roll of Raammat, which should allow me to do 4 doors and the non-horizontal part of the firewall.</p><p></p><p>I'll let you know how it is.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="defcon1, post: 1768309, member: 30064"] Ok...this coming weekend, I'll complete the floorboards, and I think, the two front doors. After working with the bitumen flash strips for a while, I've come to the conclusion that it works well on parts of the car the don't heat up, whereas, on the parts that do, you WILL want to use some better material. Hence, Bitumen strips you would use on... a) Boot area but make sure you layer over it with Insuflex or some equivalent material to soak up anything that may ooze out expecially above the muffler. b) Rear wheel wells - ok. also layer with Insuflex. c) Rear seats - you might not have the space to layer with insuflex. But there is already a bitumen sheet there (factory applied), so you only need to dampen around it, if necessary. d) Floorboards up to the pedals - no problems here. Insuflex layering will definitely help. Make sure you cut holes for all the difficult areas like the rails for the front seats, etc. You may want to avoid layering areas where the original plastic mouldings meet the body as it will be darn difficult to get the mouldings back in place again. For the firewall, and doors, you will probably want to use better material. I cannot anticipate 2 things... a) That the bitumin will continue to stick even when the firewall or skin of the car door is hot. 50 degrees C is probably still ok. 60 degrees C is pushing it. Even though the material is rated to 80 degrees C, I don't feel like using my car for a test vehicle, considering that if it fails, I'm the one who is going to have to clean it up... :smile: b) How hot the firewall or skin will heat up to under various conditions. Don't forget...when you stick bitumin eg. on the outer skin of the door, you also compromise the heat radiating capacity of the door material itself, so it will probably "pool" heat in the metal. A car door in mid-afternoon sunlight could possibly reach 55 degrees C or more. So, I've finally called Grexer and ordered half a roll of Raammat, which should allow me to do 4 doors and the non-horizontal part of the firewall. I'll let you know how it is. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
The Marketplace Latest
original rare Enkei ES Tarmac 15x7jj offset +35 4H...
Started by
david tao
Chassis and Wheels
original rare Rays Volk Racing SE37 17x7.5jj offset...
Started by
david tao
Chassis and Wheels
original rare Yokohama ADVAN Racing TC4 18x8.5...
Started by
david tao
Chassis and Wheels
original rare Rays Volk Racing ZE40 17x9jj offset...
Started by
david tao
Chassis and Wheels
original rare Rays Volk Racing INGS TS06 18x8jj...
Started by
david tao
Chassis and Wheels
New original Defi Advance A1 NA package triple...
Started by
david tao
Engine and Performance
original rare Rays Volk Racing CE28 16x7jj offset...
Started by
david tao
Chassis and Wheels
Honda Jazz/Fit JSracing GTwing Spoiler
Started by
jeff6126
Exterior and Body
Toyota Vios NCP93 front bonnet hood
Started by
jeff6126
Exterior and Body
Honda civic fc varis spoiler
Started by
jeff6126
Exterior and Body
Posts refresh every 5 minutes
Lets talk about Intercooler here
Recently i've read up some articles, found out a good IC SHOULD not only lower down the temp but also to improve flow which shld be the factor if we ever wanna change it.
However the articles also did some dyno test...
fried ecu-manual 6a10 v6 1.6
hi guys...
recently my brother fried his 6a10 ecu,4084 i think,thanks to the shoddy wiring during conversion.
usual suspect - the sensor.
at the dock
the pomen said 3 ic are burnt to death, and... the good...
To all that wanted to earn extra poket money..., If u have a broadband.
Hey guys if u want to earn an extra poket money click in this side n the register it. Not lie one... Trust me...
Recent Posts
Darker Design : Mercedes-Benz Launches GLA Nightfall Edition in Malaysia
Started by
The_Mechanic
News and Features
Honda Malaysia Doubles Down on Hybrids: New CR-V Launches with Dual e:HEV...
Started by
The_Mechanic
News and Features
BateriHub Reaches 200-Store Milestone, Becomes Malaysia’s Largest...
Started by
The_Mechanic
News and Features
Been stalking for 3 years edy
Started by
dheepadarshan95
Introduction and Newbies
Recommendation: Turbocharger for 4B11 N.A engine
Started by
Mitevo7
Car Modification
Search
Online now
Enjoying Zerotohundred?
Log-in
for an ad-less experience
Home
Forums
Car Clubs
Car Club Categories
The Cefiro Club Malaysia
Insulation!!