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Message: <blockquote data-quote="[PIMPIN]" data-source="post: 4491600" data-attributes="member: 2994">When I was in high school, my best friend's elder brother and his group of friends were into Honda EGs, EKs etc and from time to time used to give us advice, pearls of wisdom really and cars and such. At the time, we looked up to them as they were not only cool but also wise. Hahaha One thing that has stuck with me all these years is the 'pantang' of not talking about selling your car while driving it etc or it will 'merajuk' leading it to breakdown etc. As I was driving home on Saturday night, I felt the car struggle to come on boost. This was about 1km from my house so I slowed down because my initial thought was loose piping somewhere and I didn't want it to come off completely. (Struggling with intercooler piping at 2am in a closed gas station during winter with only a torch light and one lousy screwdriver was experience enough). The next morning I popped the bonnet, and sure enough one of the intercooler pipes had slipped out of the silicone joints. So I secured it properly and just to be safe double-checked all the silicone joints to make sure the clamps were tight. Satisfied, I started the engine and as expected, everything was back to normal. Or so I thought.After a couple of minutes, I decided to take it for a spin and then I noticed the air/fuel ratio gauge stuck at 18. Usually it idles at around 14, and drops to 11 or so when I'm really pushing it hard. At first I was worried that the engine was running too lean but the gauge did not move AT ALL. Air/fuel ratios as we all know are never constant, small changes every second within a certain range. It never stays on say, 14.7 and then never move at all. Then I remembered the Apexi turbo timer which boasts an 'air/fuel ratio' reading so I glanced at that and it was around 14.1 to 14.7 range.What I want to know is where does the Apexi get its reading from. Although we know we cannot rely on that for accuracy, it must receive its signal from somewhere. A stock car uses a narrowband sensor which relays the signal to the ECU and the Apexi gets that reading but the Dynojet uses a wideband sensor which not only allows a wider range for air/fuel reading but is also different voltage. Basically, neither the ECU nor the Apexi would be able to use that sensor without going through the Dynojet right? Therefore, everything should be based on the new lambda sensor and subsequently whatever reading on the Apexi would have originated from the same lambda sensor right?Therefore, is it my lambda sensors which are in need of replacement given the fact that they have a finite life or do you reckon the Dynojet's gauge is the one not working? Because a failing or failed sensor would mean not only erratic idling, but also erratic air fuel readings among other things. The air fuel ratio on the Dynojet looks like its frozen in time while the engine runs fine.I called N1 and they told me to bring it in today but I haven't had the time. In the meantime, let's all pretend to know the answer and everyone is welcome to give their expert opinion on what they think the problem is and how it should it can be solved. Hopefully, next couple of days I'll get send the car there and we'll know for sure. <img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/adore.gif"  class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":adore:" title="adore    :adore:" data-shortname=":adore:" /></blockquote>

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