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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Izso" data-source="post: 1064094085" data-attributes="member: 2429">A GTWing on a front wheel drive car? Uh.. I don't know if you were being sarcastic or what but I don't think that's going to work.Ok la. Let's talk modding a Myvi.1. The h-shaped rear axle/torsion beam means it'll flex and flex hard if you press hard. So over stiffening it with ARBs will break something. Learn to handle it without overkill ARBs. I heard 19mm is already too stiff and will tear out the bolted down area of the torsion beam stiffener (same design as the Passo one). Anti Roll Bar setup like the one 3Max runs on a different concept. If you're not too hardcore then the 3max ARB setup will be plenty stiff and you won't run a risk of breaking anything. If you're looking at the Passo-type torsion beam strengthener, 16mm is more than enough but it isn't really enough to feel. 2. Adjustable suspension - the rear setup is quite unique, a lot of modern cars use this type of setup (dunno what it's called) where the spring and the absorber are separate. Problem with this is if your absorber is short stroke and you use normal height springs, it'll be a mismatch and you will be able to feel it. Friend of mine can manually turn the spring to re-fit into the cup with a strong kick or two. Stupid fella using lowered sport springs with long stroke absorbers. Mismatch imho. I've also seen both the spring and absorbers put together (hi/lo/soft/hard) but I don't think the lower arms and all were designed to work like that. Don't know about this. 3. Larger wheels - you need to be careful about the offset otherwise you'll be rubbing on the arches. Some say offset +45 and some say +40 will work. I say just stick with 15" 195/50/15 and you'll be fine with whatever offset. 4. Brakes on the Myvi are sufficient but not good enough for hardcore driving. Myvi 1.5 uses slightly larger calipers and pads, and it's a PNP for the Myvi 1.3. A lot of people customize a bracket to hold Toyota calipers or Honda calipers for the Myvi. I've heard of 4-pot on a Myvi but for stock engine, that's overkill. You'd really need to know how to modulate the brake pedal otherwise it'll be "off-on" brakes with a 2-pot or 4-pot.5. The Myvi firewall is thin and very flexible. Very apparent with the brake servo moving so much which affects brake pedal feel. The Boon and Passo have brake stopper kits but are really expensive. If someone could sponsor RM10k for me to have a mould done, I could mass produce a Myvi brake stopper that could dramatically improve brake pedal feel. Any takers?6. The K3VE engine isn't exactly new and there's a turbo variant - K3VET. It's a direct plug and play into the Myvi 1.3 and is quite expensive. Pistons and all the internals are direct PNP into the standard K3VE, but you'll need to work on the wiring and the ECU. 7. Passo / Boon external body parts are PNP but the dash and all are not. You can plug them in but you'll need a skilled wireman to rewire the dash and the gear is located on the dash for the Passo/Boon. So that'll need some working too. 8. A simple manifold upgrade (the famous ones are Hotbits, DSport, cap ayam) and a better flow exhaust will do wonders for the cars performance. The most basic and simplest of mods with the biggest result.9. Open pods and drop ins are useless for stock engines. Don't bother until you have something done like high compression / forced induction / etc.What else did I miss? Oh and those who convert to HID without projectors are idiots.</blockquote>

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