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<blockquote data-quote="ARTA" data-source="post: 1880952" data-attributes="member: 1158"><p>Glad to see ppl pouring into this section. Keep it up :)</p><p></p><p>Sometimes those can conventional spray can dissolve very fine plastics part. Bro cham2020, bleeding can be prevented using clearcoating on the mask lining to seal away the fine capillary. So after it's dried up, you wont get any bleeding, right? :) </p><p></p><p>Here's a simple way to get a good shine.</p><p></p><p>Get Tamiya TS spray (believe me, it's worth the money) and white surface primer (for bright colours). Tamiya spray can be warmed in a warm bucket of water not exceeding 50 degree to prevent unwanted bubbles caused by the propellant. One of the factor that cause bubbling on the paint is the low temperature by propellant. Propellant reaction causes bubbles to emerge from the bottom coat and will leave bad porosity in the paint. These bubbles get captured inside when the outer coat dries up faster than the inner coat. So, NEVER go too heavy for the coating, layer by layer slowly and steady does it, or u will defintely spoil the whole body. Trust me, i've been through it once and twice , so i've learnt the valuable lesson.</p><p></p><p>After preparing the body, spray on the primer. remember, ALWAYS BE VERY LIGHT ON IT. Spray on mist coat, then let it dry for about 5-10 minutes, recoat it further with a light coat , leave for 5-15 minutes and finally SLIGHTLY heavier coat of primer and let it dry for 20-30 minutes ( unsettled primer will shrink causing the TS coat to shrike as well when dry).</p><p></p><p>Next is TS spray can. Again, for best effect especially bright colours or fluorescent colour, these following steps are CRUCIAL.</p><p>Spray on a mist coat, mist mean foggy look, and not one full layer. When the mist has dried up for 3-5 mins, go for a light coat. This light coat shall be let to dry for 5-10 mins (remember keeps warming up the can when u let the paint to dry in between) repeat this light coat until it's even. 2 or 3 light coat is recommended. After these light coats, leave it dry for 20 - 30 minutes (all these are to avoid bubbling, they need times to dry otherwise the outer coat will dry up faster than the inner coat causing bubbles) and FINALLY, a slightly heavier coat to get the shine you need. Leave the body to gas out best for 2,3 weeks - a month. DO NOT TOUCH the paint during gas out or you'll leave prints on it. </p><p></p><p>Here's a few tips:</p><p></p><p>1.Let it dry behind a window glass so you get the heat u need but not the dust. this way u dont need to bother it for long time.</p><p></p><p>2. Brake fluids like dot 3 or 4 can remove tamiya spray can (TS) paint (lacquer) efficiently over a day time.</p><p></p><p>3. this is for bro cham2020. Two tone colour can be very fun and easy task. Just use the TS spray can for first tone and when it's dry, use tamiya acrylic for 2nd tone. In case it bleed, it can be easily removed as acrylic doesnt bond well with lacquer. and enamel doesnt bond well for acrylic.</p><p></p><p>So hope all these helps! good luck in your future projects! :)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ARTA, post: 1880952, member: 1158"] Glad to see ppl pouring into this section. Keep it up :) Sometimes those can conventional spray can dissolve very fine plastics part. Bro cham2020, bleeding can be prevented using clearcoating on the mask lining to seal away the fine capillary. So after it's dried up, you wont get any bleeding, right? :) Here's a simple way to get a good shine. Get Tamiya TS spray (believe me, it's worth the money) and white surface primer (for bright colours). Tamiya spray can be warmed in a warm bucket of water not exceeding 50 degree to prevent unwanted bubbles caused by the propellant. One of the factor that cause bubbling on the paint is the low temperature by propellant. Propellant reaction causes bubbles to emerge from the bottom coat and will leave bad porosity in the paint. These bubbles get captured inside when the outer coat dries up faster than the inner coat. So, NEVER go too heavy for the coating, layer by layer slowly and steady does it, or u will defintely spoil the whole body. Trust me, i've been through it once and twice , so i've learnt the valuable lesson. After preparing the body, spray on the primer. remember, ALWAYS BE VERY LIGHT ON IT. Spray on mist coat, then let it dry for about 5-10 minutes, recoat it further with a light coat , leave for 5-15 minutes and finally SLIGHTLY heavier coat of primer and let it dry for 20-30 minutes ( unsettled primer will shrink causing the TS coat to shrike as well when dry). Next is TS spray can. Again, for best effect especially bright colours or fluorescent colour, these following steps are CRUCIAL. Spray on a mist coat, mist mean foggy look, and not one full layer. When the mist has dried up for 3-5 mins, go for a light coat. This light coat shall be let to dry for 5-10 mins (remember keeps warming up the can when u let the paint to dry in between) repeat this light coat until it's even. 2 or 3 light coat is recommended. After these light coats, leave it dry for 20 - 30 minutes (all these are to avoid bubbling, they need times to dry otherwise the outer coat will dry up faster than the inner coat causing bubbles) and FINALLY, a slightly heavier coat to get the shine you need. Leave the body to gas out best for 2,3 weeks - a month. DO NOT TOUCH the paint during gas out or you'll leave prints on it. Here's a few tips: 1.Let it dry behind a window glass so you get the heat u need but not the dust. this way u dont need to bother it for long time. 2. Brake fluids like dot 3 or 4 can remove tamiya spray can (TS) paint (lacquer) efficiently over a day time. 3. this is for bro cham2020. Two tone colour can be very fun and easy task. Just use the TS spray can for first tone and when it's dry, use tamiya acrylic for 2nd tone. In case it bleed, it can be easily removed as acrylic doesnt bond well with lacquer. and enamel doesnt bond well for acrylic. So hope all these helps! good luck in your future projects! :) [/QUOTE]
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