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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Shanashi" data-source="post: 731103" data-attributes="member: 423">This is the proper wayFind a nice shady spot - preferably when it’s not a hot/humid day. 1. Wash the car with warm water and the car wash to remove surface dirt and road grime. Warm water helps remove more of the grime. As you wash - DO NOT rub in circles... wash in straight strokes length ways or across the car. If it is a hot day - wash one panel at a time - do not let the suds dry out on the paint surface. 2. Rinse car (if you're using a garden hose - I find you get a better rinsing effect if you remove the spray attachment and just use the free flowing water). 3. Wash car again with a fresh bucket of warm water and car wash but this time - instead of using the sponge or mit - use the 3M Clay bar. The clay bar is also known as an overspray block and is used by spray painters. Basically - it's a clay block - it's similar to blu tak. The idea is to put it in the palm of your hand and rub the paint with it. Don't be afraid - it won't scratch the paint. What it does, is it removes bonded contaminates on the paint surface. These are things that normal washing doesn't remove. Things like tree sap, atmospheric residue etc. Depending on the environment you usually leave your car parked in - chances are as you rub your paint, you'll see the build up of what looks like "black grime" in the clay block. As you wash the car and rub it with the clay block - use the suds and water as a lubricant to glide the block over the paint. Otherwise you'll find the clay block sticking. Don't be afraid to apply moderate pressure as you rub. The clay block also removes the old wax. You may see some "streaks" of the block left on the paint - don't worry - it comes off easy enough. Again - don't go in circles - go in straight strokes (working on 1 panel at a time if you have to). Rinse each panel as you finish blocking it. Blocking also removes the dirt trapped in fine scratches in your paint surface. The reason you see scratches is because there is dirt in there. 4. Wash car again if needed (this is optional - I've never had to wash the car more than twice. The next step will remove any "streaks" or marks left by the clay block - then again...they're only really noticeable on dark colours - like my black car). 5. Paint Cleaner. This is basically like a polish but isn't as harsh. The Zymol paint cleaner contains oils that recondition the paint. As it was explained to me... paint is a living thing. When paint dies and its natural oils are removed - you get oxidization. This is when paint fades and discolours. The Zymol paint cleaner restores these natural oils and leaves the paint feeling "as smooth as glass". Apply the paint cleaner in small sections at a time using a soft cloth or terry towel (turning frequently). You rub it on and after about 1 min it turns to a haze - use another soft cloth and buff to a mirror finish. Again - do not go in circles. Depending on how much you've neglected your paint - you may get the best results if you do this twice. 6. Waxing. Why is waxing important? Wax is what protects your paint. The WORST thing you can do is polish your paint and not wax it. Right now your bare paint surface is exposed to the atmosphere. Think of it as being in the sun without sunscreen - it won't be long before you burn. The same applies to your paint. Waxing is important for sealing the surface of your paint, protecting it - and offering a layer between your paint surface and the elements. Apply the wax using a waxing applicator - these are available from the car care section of just about any auto shop - it looks like a circular sponge. Working in small areas - apply a thin layer of wax. Think of waxing like painting...it's more effective to apply thin coats and build it up, than to apply 1 thick heavy coat. Apply the wax; let it sit for 30secs, then buff with a micro fibre polishing cloth. Zymol wax "sets" as it mixes with the air - so keep the container closed at all times you're not using it. Again - don't go in circles...work in straight strokes. Keep working around the car. If you can - apply a minium of 2 coats. 3 coats if you have the energy or if there are 2 of you working on the vehicle. This builds up a nice barrier on your paint and seals your paint surface. When you're done - don't throw away that micro fibre polishing cloth. It's impregnated with wax. Use it as a buffing cloth in the future when you wash and chamois your car. The micro fibre texture also recuts the wax surface giving you that "just polished" look. Depending on the environment you leave your car in - you may only need to this whole exercise once a year. It does help just to recoat the wax every 6 months. Just wash your car thoroughly, and reapply the wax layer only. If you leave your car parked outside in the sun or at night... you may need to reapply the wax every 3 months or so. If your car lives in a garage and doesn't get left outside all day/night all that often - you may not need to rewax at all. One good way to tell if your car needs to be rewaxed is when you wash it - does the water bead and roll off the paint surface? If it doesn't...and the water just sticks like a sheet - then you need to rewax. this topic was discussed in one of the old forums hope this helpscheers:)</blockquote>

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