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<blockquote data-quote="prozac" data-source="post: 830358" data-attributes="member: 1726"><p>It is recommended that you get the pulleys too. This would allow for fine tuning of the cam phase to get the optimum output. I would recommend the RM2210 package which consists of:</p><p></p><p>1) Stage-2 camshafts</p><p>2) Intake Campulley</p><p>3) Unlimited dyno-tuning until the optimum output is obtained</p><p>4) Final dyno chart of your Stage-2 Satria R3 (like a certificate lah!)</p><p></p><p>It would be a good idea to start planning your mods now. Think of your whole project and divide it into stages if budget is an issue. Try to balance powertrain with handling upgrades.</p><p></p><p>IMO, installing mild stage-2 cams and then bolting on an SC isn't very efficient spending. For a start, once you plonk in the SC, the effects of the stage-2 cams would probably be muted. However, for most <em>normal</em> drivers, the Stage-2 engine is sufficient. The SC is for those who want MORE ooomph, yet a civil daily driven car. Also pls bear in mind that the SC is still not available for Siemens VDO equipped 4G93P's. If you want to SC right NOW, you'll have to convert to the full GTi MMC wiring with the 0248 ECU. A conversion to MMC may also require a cam pulley and ignition timing retune. But the effects over Siemens VDO are very noticable.</p><p></p><p>Another upgrade path, besides the SC and Stage-2 would be a 1.8 MIVEC rojak. Plonk on a MIVEC head and tune it with a VAFC and you're good to go...<em>in an ideal world</em>. It's really a case of easier said than done and unless you can find a very experienced tuner to work on your rojak project, forget it.</p><p></p><p>At the end of the modding day, it's a matter of how much budget you have and what you want from your car. Also how many days you can live without the car; coz it'll spend quite some time in the workshop.</p><p></p><p>Cheers and hope to meet you at the next TT!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="prozac, post: 830358, member: 1726"] It is recommended that you get the pulleys too. This would allow for fine tuning of the cam phase to get the optimum output. I would recommend the RM2210 package which consists of: 1) Stage-2 camshafts 2) Intake Campulley 3) Unlimited dyno-tuning until the optimum output is obtained 4) Final dyno chart of your Stage-2 Satria R3 (like a certificate lah!) It would be a good idea to start planning your mods now. Think of your whole project and divide it into stages if budget is an issue. Try to balance powertrain with handling upgrades. IMO, installing mild stage-2 cams and then bolting on an SC isn't very efficient spending. For a start, once you plonk in the SC, the effects of the stage-2 cams would probably be muted. However, for most [I]normal[/I] drivers, the Stage-2 engine is sufficient. The SC is for those who want MORE ooomph, yet a civil daily driven car. Also pls bear in mind that the SC is still not available for Siemens VDO equipped 4G93P's. If you want to SC right NOW, you'll have to convert to the full GTi MMC wiring with the 0248 ECU. A conversion to MMC may also require a cam pulley and ignition timing retune. But the effects over Siemens VDO are very noticable. Another upgrade path, besides the SC and Stage-2 would be a 1.8 MIVEC rojak. Plonk on a MIVEC head and tune it with a VAFC and you're good to go...[I]in an ideal world[/I]. It's really a case of easier said than done and unless you can find a very experienced tuner to work on your rojak project, forget it. At the end of the modding day, it's a matter of how much budget you have and what you want from your car. Also how many days you can live without the car; coz it'll spend quite some time in the workshop. Cheers and hope to meet you at the next TT! [/QUOTE]
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