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Rotary Engines - FAQ.
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<blockquote data-quote="Alchemis" data-source="post: 2059457" data-attributes="member: 20898"><p><strong>kindergarden class - before you buy the car</strong></p><p></p><p>1. Check for proper turbo operation. Problems with the secondary turbo are common. On a test drive with a warm engine at full throttle, the second turbo should kick in with the punch of a jet aircraft's afterburner. Though Mazda didn't install a boost gauge, it's easy to hook up a temporary gauge to the intake manifold. The dial should read 10 psi, then drop to 8 psi at 4500 rpm, then quickly recover to 10 psi. Turbo housings are difficult to obtain, which means that pooped-out turbos can't be rebuilt and must be replaced with new turbos — a pricey proposition.</p><p></p><p>2. Inspect vacuum lines and wiring. Malfunctioning turbos may also be caused by problems with the RX-7's complex array of vacuum lines and solenoid valves. High under-hood temperatures from the turbos often cause the lines to harden and break, and the solenoids to fail. Ditto for engine-bay wiring and electrical connections.</p><p></p><p>3. Perform a compression check. Rotary engines require special test equipment available at a dealer or rotary specialist. But a check is especially important as these engines often need rebuilding after only 50,000 or 60,000 miles because the aluminum engine housing warps and/or seals fail and allow coolant to enter the rotor chambers.</p><p></p><p>4. Examine the cooling system. Rotary engines run hotter than piston engines, and the turbos only add to the heat generation. Proper engine cooling is critical, and if the needle on the temperature gauge rises to "Hot" even once, the engine's probably cooked. On a cold engine, the coolant level should be full and the coolant should be green with no signs of oil. White smoke or the sweet smell of coolant from the tailpipe indicates trouble. The electric fans — there are two — frequently come apart, perhaps launching a blade into the radiator. And the cooling system's plastic air separator often splits, dumping out coolant.</p><p></p><p>5. Read the service history. The records should show oil-change intervals of no longer than 2000 to 3000 miles. Gasoline residue is more likely to contaminate the oil of a rotary engine than a piston engine, and the oil breaks down more quickly because it's used to cool the turbos, so frequent changes are a must. Oil consumption of a quart per 1500 miles is normal. Oil pressure at idle should be at least 20 psi.</p><p></p><p>6. Check gearbox for smooth shifting. The manual transmission is generally strong, but a damaged 5th-gear synchro is not uncommon on these RX-7s. Note any crunching when going into 5th gear.</p><p></p><p>7. Listen for suspension clunks. Noises from the aft end of the car may come from one or more of a dozen deteriorated bushings in the rear suspension, while clunks at the front probably come from an upper A-arm bushing. Any can be replaced with upgraded bushings.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Alchemis, post: 2059457, member: 20898"] [b]kindergarden class - before you buy the car[/b] 1. Check for proper turbo operation. Problems with the secondary turbo are common. On a test drive with a warm engine at full throttle, the second turbo should kick in with the punch of a jet aircraft's afterburner. Though Mazda didn't install a boost gauge, it's easy to hook up a temporary gauge to the intake manifold. The dial should read 10 psi, then drop to 8 psi at 4500 rpm, then quickly recover to 10 psi. Turbo housings are difficult to obtain, which means that pooped-out turbos can't be rebuilt and must be replaced with new turbos — a pricey proposition. 2. Inspect vacuum lines and wiring. Malfunctioning turbos may also be caused by problems with the RX-7's complex array of vacuum lines and solenoid valves. High under-hood temperatures from the turbos often cause the lines to harden and break, and the solenoids to fail. Ditto for engine-bay wiring and electrical connections. 3. Perform a compression check. Rotary engines require special test equipment available at a dealer or rotary specialist. But a check is especially important as these engines often need rebuilding after only 50,000 or 60,000 miles because the aluminum engine housing warps and/or seals fail and allow coolant to enter the rotor chambers. 4. Examine the cooling system. Rotary engines run hotter than piston engines, and the turbos only add to the heat generation. Proper engine cooling is critical, and if the needle on the temperature gauge rises to "Hot" even once, the engine's probably cooked. On a cold engine, the coolant level should be full and the coolant should be green with no signs of oil. White smoke or the sweet smell of coolant from the tailpipe indicates trouble. The electric fans — there are two — frequently come apart, perhaps launching a blade into the radiator. And the cooling system's plastic air separator often splits, dumping out coolant. 5. Read the service history. The records should show oil-change intervals of no longer than 2000 to 3000 miles. Gasoline residue is more likely to contaminate the oil of a rotary engine than a piston engine, and the oil breaks down more quickly because it's used to cool the turbos, so frequent changes are a must. Oil consumption of a quart per 1500 miles is normal. Oil pressure at idle should be at least 20 psi. 6. Check gearbox for smooth shifting. The manual transmission is generally strong, but a damaged 5th-gear synchro is not uncommon on these RX-7s. Note any crunching when going into 5th gear. 7. Listen for suspension clunks. Noises from the aft end of the car may come from one or more of a dozen deteriorated bushings in the rear suspension, while clunks at the front probably come from an upper A-arm bushing. Any can be replaced with upgraded bushings. [/QUOTE]
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