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<blockquote data-quote="savahn" data-source="post: 4134459" data-attributes="member: 49185"><p>Hmmm... this one I must see to believe. Regarding the videos:</p><p></p><p>1. Notice that all the other oils were tested on the one piece of metal but the Royal Purple was tested on its own piece of metal? I would be more convinced if it were the same piece of metal.</p><p></p><p>2. The reason for letting engine reach operating temperatures is so that the load bearing parts are properly lubed and that the lube itself can reach its operating temperature. It is well known that synthetics have better performance at the low and high temperature ranges, how about show the other oils performing within their range?</p><p></p><p>3. If you guys are so much interested in this load bearing friction test, may I recommend you replace all your engine's moving parts with titanium and inconel? You might get cracked parts but you will get less friction wear.</p><p></p><p>Here's some translations for you:</p><p>a- Progressively dislodges: this oil contains massive amounts of detergents</p><p>b- thin molecular layer: marketing jargon which says the writer has no idea what he's talking about</p><p>c- it's blue: it has permitted food colouring and flavour - probably blueberry... And here I thought the whole point of synthetics is that it is composed of mono-type molecules.</p><p></p><p>Oh, and btw, want to know why Mobil 1 is the WORST synthetic to use for rotaries?</p><p>http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Mobil1_Mazda_Rotary_Engine.aspx</p><p></p><p>Funny that...</p><p></p><p>Hai... this is the oldest argument in the rotary forums. Just use what you can afford. Unless you're going to stick with your car like a wife, don't worry about the oil so much. Unless you're doing race and you need to squeeze out that little bit of performance. Unless you are pushing 400HP out to the wheels and drive like a nut besides.</p><p></p><p>Finally, do remember that the majority of us use reconditioned and 2nd hand parts. If friction were such a problem, you think we would be buying them? Don't you think all those parts would have been rendered useless by now - 20 years on? Unless we want to believe that everybody except us are using Royal Purple.<span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"><span style="font-size: 9px">---------- Post added at 11:20 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:00 PM ----------</span></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span>The more I search for info about royal purple, the less I know about it. It all ties into this proprietary mix of ingredients patented as "Synerlec". Sounds like some sort of weird glue - Super Glue, by the way, shares some similarity to the base compounds that make synthetic oils.</p><p></p><p>Synthetics are turning out to be less "pure" than expected. It's got all sorts of chemical additives.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="savahn, post: 4134459, member: 49185"] Hmmm... this one I must see to believe. Regarding the videos: 1. Notice that all the other oils were tested on the one piece of metal but the Royal Purple was tested on its own piece of metal? I would be more convinced if it were the same piece of metal. 2. The reason for letting engine reach operating temperatures is so that the load bearing parts are properly lubed and that the lube itself can reach its operating temperature. It is well known that synthetics have better performance at the low and high temperature ranges, how about show the other oils performing within their range? 3. If you guys are so much interested in this load bearing friction test, may I recommend you replace all your engine's moving parts with titanium and inconel? You might get cracked parts but you will get less friction wear. Here's some translations for you: a- Progressively dislodges: this oil contains massive amounts of detergents b- thin molecular layer: marketing jargon which says the writer has no idea what he's talking about c- it's blue: it has permitted food colouring and flavour - probably blueberry... And here I thought the whole point of synthetics is that it is composed of mono-type molecules. Oh, and btw, want to know why Mobil 1 is the WORST synthetic to use for rotaries? http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Mobil1_Mazda_Rotary_Engine.aspx Funny that... Hai... this is the oldest argument in the rotary forums. Just use what you can afford. Unless you're going to stick with your car like a wife, don't worry about the oil so much. Unless you're doing race and you need to squeeze out that little bit of performance. Unless you are pushing 400HP out to the wheels and drive like a nut besides. Finally, do remember that the majority of us use reconditioned and 2nd hand parts. If friction were such a problem, you think we would be buying them? Don't you think all those parts would have been rendered useless by now - 20 years on? Unless we want to believe that everybody except us are using Royal Purple.[COLOR="Silver"] [SIZE=1]---------- Post added at 11:20 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:00 PM ----------[/SIZE] [/COLOR]The more I search for info about royal purple, the less I know about it. It all ties into this proprietary mix of ingredients patented as "Synerlec". Sounds like some sort of weird glue - Super Glue, by the way, shares some similarity to the base compounds that make synthetic oils. Synthetics are turning out to be less "pure" than expected. It's got all sorts of chemical additives. [/QUOTE]
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