Sparkplug Info...

[13btt]

Where does each owner buy their sparkplugs from? How much do you pay? Or perhaps your mechanic replaces & charges you for them?

Never let a 'monkey mechanic' put in standard (i.e. non-rotary) plugs as that is the end of your engine as happen to one unfortunate owner about a year back!@ The apex of the rotor crashes into the head of the plug which protrudes through the hole in the rotor housing...bang!

I only use NGK BUR8EQ and BUR9EQ in my engine with excellent results as I find using 8 rating lasts longer than 7 rating for a moderately modified engine and provides better power & smoothness.

I have seen very poor idling / difficulty starting & flooding of engine from people using racing 10 & 11 plugs of NGK or HKS brand.

In case anyone is confused...the higher the number the colder the plug is = it retains less combustion heat which is bad for street engines as they do not provide clean burn & get excessive carbon build up causing further fouling.

Standard oem Mazda issue are BUR7EQ and BUR9EQ or with a P at the end for platinum plugs - IMO platinum are a waste of money as they perform slightly worse and don't last any longer whatsoever - in case anyone was wondering on this!

 

[phat7]

Please get ypur orientation right as well. Leading and Trailing spots are designated on the plugs and also on engine housing by letters "T" and "L".

 

[coolblue]

11 and 10 are very cold plug ,

need to warm up to get on pure sparks ,
the best to use on racing plug that combine using MSD or HKS twin power ,

but most that we saw japanese are running them with no problem ,
mainly because their fuel octane are higher that burns up even with little spark ,

 

[jasonlel]

Where does each owner buy their sparkplugs from? How much do you pay? Or perhaps your mechanic replaces & charges you for them?

Never let a 'monkey mechanic' put in standard (i.e. non-rotary) plugs as that is the end of your engine as happen to one unfortunate owner about a year back!@ The apex of the rotor crashes into the head of the plug which protrudes through the hole in the rotor housing...bang!

I only use NGK BUR8EQ and BUR9EQ in my engine with excellent results as I find using 8 rating lasts longer than 7 rating for a moderately modified engine and provides better power & smoothness.

I have seen very poor idling / difficulty starting & flooding of engine from people using racing 10 & 11 plugs of NGK or HKS brand.

In case anyone is confused...the higher the number the colder the plug is = it retains less combustion heat which is bad for street engines as they do not provide clean burn & get excessive carbon build up causing further fouling.

Standard oem Mazda issue are BUR7EQ and BUR9EQ or with a P at the end for platinum plugs - IMO platinum are a waste of money as they perform slightly worse and don't last any longer whatsoever - in case anyone was wondering on this!

Where can I get the NGK BUR8EQ and BUR9EQ? How much are those plugs?

 

[13btt]

You can get from a few "select" members within our group. Is your car relatively stock, as you can probably get away with using the 7 and 9s.

 

[jasonlel]

You can get from a few "select" members within our group. Is your car relatively stock, as you can probably get away with using the 7 and 9s.

Yea... mine is relatively stock... Only exhaust change and using a twin hks open pod filter....

Who are those few "select" members? Pls stand out!!!! :p

 

[Shanashi]

Ah choi in usj sells them forgot how much I was totally overwhelmed when that elderly guy explained to me abt the different plugs it uses and why he even took it out and showed it to me.....dam nice ppl I must admit....if only every workshop was like that



hehe sorry kacau thread again:ciao::vroam:

 

[yokohama]

See what u get...by what u know...

As it seems, there has been a need for another technical discussion on tuning theory. I think more and more questions arise why you run 12:1 afr vs. 13:1 or 14:1 or this certain ignition timing. Anyone can just find threads where such and such ran this ignition timing and this AFR. I think very few people know why you would run this certain AFR or Ignition timing.
Until now, i didnt want to get in depth of the reasons why, but to justify the reasons I recommend certain AFR's and Ignition timing, we will discuss it.

In order to really under stand this discussion, you will need to know a lot of mechanics of the engine. IE. the cycles the motor takes. i really dont want to take the time to go into detail for now, maybe later.

The name of the game to making power is making the burn duration when the peak combustion pressure occur around 16 degrees after top dead center. The reason you want this is because it creates the most force on the crankshaft at the optimum angle to produce the most power. Sometimes people refer to this as MBT (maximum brake torque) but i dont really use that term much.

So in order to do that, we need to know a few things. Our boosted application allows the cylinder w/ more dense charges.

Lets talk a bit about AFR's. Many people just see people running XX:1 Air Fuel Ratio, and thats what they go by. You have to look deeper into Heat Transfer theory to really understand what is going on here, and why you would run certain AFR's.

About 25 % of the air/fuel mixture energy is converted to work, and the remaining 75% must be transferred from the engine to the environment. .

Octane Levels

The octane number of a gasoline is NOT a measure of it's hotness or coolness in the burning process, and it is NOT a measure of how 'powerful' it is. The octane number is simply a measure of how good the gasoline resistance of detonation. This is a huge misconception. Higher octane fuels are better at controlling the decomposition into auto-ignition compounds than lower octane fuels. Many people think they can run higher octane fuel at leaner temps. well they are simply wrong.

this is some tip for u guys....:p
e-mail me if u want [email protected]
good luck for all 13B user...^^

 

[13btt]

I am very impressed with your knowledge, especially since you can explain your knowledge rather than just quote (regurgitate) what others have heard & said which more often is just hearsay and hence not well founded / accurate.

BIG Thumbs up!!

As it seems, there has been a need for another technical discussion on tuning theory. I think more and more questions arise why you run 12:1 afr vs. 13:1 or 14:1 or this certain ignition timing. Anyone can just find threads where such and such ran this ignition timing and this AFR. I think very few people know why you would run this certain AFR or Ignition timing.
Until now, i didnt want to get in depth of the reasons why, but to justify the reasons I recommend certain AFR's and Ignition timing, we will discuss it.

In order to really under stand this discussion, you will need to know a lot of mechanics of the engine. IE. the cycles the motor takes. i really dont want to take the time to go into detail for now, maybe later.

The name of the game to making power is making the burn duration when the peak combustion pressure occur around 16 degrees after top dead center. The reason you want this is because it creates the most force on the crankshaft at the optimum angle to produce the most power. Sometimes people refer to this as MBT (maximum brake torque) but i dont really use that term much.

So in order to do that, we need to know a few things. Our boosted application allows the cylinder w/ more dense charges.

Lets talk a bit about AFR's. Many people just see people running XX:1 Air Fuel Ratio, and thats what they go by. You have to look deeper into Heat Transfer theory to really understand what is going on here, and why you would run certain AFR's.

About 25 % of the air/fuel mixture energy is converted to work, and the remaining 75% must be transferred from the engine to the environment. .

Octane Levels

The octane number of a gasoline is NOT a measure of it's hotness or coolness in the burning process, and it is NOT a measure of how 'powerful' it is. The octane number is simply a measure of how good the gasoline resistance of detonation. This is a huge misconception. Higher octane fuels are better at controlling the decomposition into auto-ignition compounds than lower octane fuels. Many people think they can run higher octane fuel at leaner temps. well they are simply wrong.

this is some tip for u guys....:p
e-mail me if u want [email protected]
good luck for all 13B user...^^

 

[paseopimp]

where can i find 2nd hand spark plug?

 

[SideWaysGrey]

If anyone is looking for FC OEM NGK plugs, do let me know. I know of a shop in Seremban that sell em for RM 45 each.