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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Izso" data-source="post: 1064479223" data-attributes="member: 2429">This is my personal take on your car overhaul. It's an old car, are you planning on keeping it longer? If yes, change out the seats and guide. There's bound to be a lot of wear and tear on a 15 year old car. You'll need a machine shop to do this for you. Oil sump gasket, crankshaft oil seal, camshaft oil seal, clutch and the seal that's at the clutch side (forgot what that's called) and a few smaller rubber seals for the oil pump. water pump, erm... eh wait.. this is just a top overhaul right? If just top most of these things no need to touch unless you want to. But might as well since your timing belt and all will be out. Change all the belts as well.Btw, don't forget - get new head bolts. The main bolts that lock down your head to the block. Old ones would be stretched out already so change them out. Bro, once you do that you're going all the way full overhaul already. Are you sure you're ready to do all that? King bearings and all should go as well if you're taking out the piston rings. I'm anal about these things. There's a reason why the head bolts stretch and compress the headgasket the way it does. It cannot afford any deformation and 99% of the time mechanics will not wait until the head is 100% completely cooled before removing the head. And even if you do remove it when it's completely cooled, the head might be deformed even just a little bit because of the way the head bolts were locked down. The slightest deformation and you're gonna experience hell on earth if it leaks. Just skim the damn thing. Manufacturers designed the head to allow up to 6 to 10 skims (I think) so just skim it down 1mm or more. Just don't reach the max limit (there's an indicator on the head itself). Better to be completely flat (the head) and once skimmed, never place it down on the skimmed surface. If you do, make sure it's padded with a nice cloth or something. Skimmed surface is flat, you ding it a bit and you'll need to re-skim. But that's just me being anal. And I skimmed my old head to the max for the compression. Powaaahhhhhh. Cuz I had a spare head anyway. Skim it la. It's out already lor. Yes.. valve grinding is an absolute necessity. But are you gonna oversize? If not then just a simple grind will do. If you're looking to do something extra and wanna do it DIY like me : http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/valve-prepping.html<img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/biggrin.gif"  class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":biggrin:" title="Biggrin    :biggrin:" data-shortname=":biggrin:" /> Remember - when washing steel parts, after drying always cover it in engine oil or WD40 to prevent rust. Just cover it in clean engine oil and that'll save you a helluva headache later from rusted parts. Port and Polish will help provided it's done right. A shitty job will screw up your cars power and performance. Again, if you're wanting to DIY this, have a look at this. I did this for my old head : http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/performance-and-economy.html<img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/biggrin.gif"  class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":biggrin:" title="Biggrin    :biggrin:" data-shortname=":biggrin:" />Dude, top overhaul or full overhaul ah? If full, then you're looking at block resleeving if it's in bad condition (or you wanna oversize) and oversized pistons with piston rings, then of course there's the bearing guides. Shit loads of things la. I just hope you find a mechanic who knows what he's doing and is honest about it. DIY!Hoses are a good idea to change. If you've never changed them before it's not expensive to swap out. Have the radiator flushed and cleaned too but don't touch the fins. Check for leaks after flushing. Water pump and oil pump ideally should change if it's never been touched before in 15 years. It's a lot of work to remove so since almost everything is out, might as well do it now. Metal gaskets are good and bad. Good is it can take punishment from a high compression engine for example. But bad is when it breaks, it just lets go and instant oil + water mix. You have to be completely dedicated to swapping it out when it reaches 80k ~ 100k km and don't take chances with a metal gasket. Workshops that I can think of that'll be willing to do that much mods would be GT Auto and probably Under5. Not entirely sure. But you better prepare a lot of money if you do decide to go modding with them. What you're asking to do isn't going to be cheap (modding). I did it DIY with 2 other friends 6 months total. The cost of everything was enough to buy a GSR, completely refurbish the GSR and install into my car but I didn't want to do an engine swap and I had no faith in mechanics after 2 screw ups from mechanics (one was Proton themselves!) Good luck. <img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/biggrin.gif"  class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":biggrin:" title="Biggrin    :biggrin:" data-shortname=":biggrin:" /></blockquote>

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