Types of muffler for FD

[jasonlel]

Yo guys,

Was just wondering what type of muffler you guys are using at the moment. Perhaps a review would be good.



Cheers,
Jason X

 

[13btt]

I am using an iron HKS dowpipe with 3" piping, 3" mandrel bent midpipe and 3" mandrel bent piping to the stainless steel "straight-through" single muffler. All is japanese made for the FD RX-7. IMO the flow is excellent with noise levels reasonable & quieter than others.

The key to a nice install for the FD is to use a muffler with an angled tip as the muffler is mounted at an angle. This way the tip protruding from the bumper is straight. Normally only FD specific muffler can do this.

Generally for turbo cars especially rotary the bigger the piping the better...but be sure to have sufficient fueling otherwise KABOOM!

 

[phat7]

i run a complete 3 inch downpipe with apexi centrebox and apexi muffler. It all depends on what you want really. Follow the 3 mod rule and you'll be safe. Intakes,downpipe,bigger exhaust= boost spike=blown engine. Some get away by installing a boost controller but what you really want to do is get a programmable fuel controller. Helps you keep systems in check.

 

[endless551]

Which boost controller in the market can reduce boost from wastegate actuator mechanical limitation?? Heard of some with a motorised actuator type..

 

[phat7]

AVCR is a good bet. Yup has to be motorised.

 

[endless551]

AVC-R can't la.. I'm using that for future wild boost application! haha.. can't find a way to boost down other than to change the spring rate of my actuator.

 

[13btt]

I am using the AVC-R with excellent success.

If you turn off any boost controller (factory solenoid disconnected) your absolute minimum boost pressure will be found as you are relying on the actuator spring pressure alone. I found my minimum to be at around 0.6-0.7bar depending upon engine load & revs.

With the factory solenoid / setup I was seeing boost at around 1.0-1.1bar which is very dangerous at that time with standard ecu, hks twin intakes & 3 inch exhaust / downpipe. I think this is the No.1 cause of blown engines assuming no other changes / mods. Very soon after I was disciplined not to thrash my car & installed the AVC-R & KS ecu.

Now with the AVC-R correctly set I can consistency bring this to 0.9bar all the time except on very cold nights. I am running a knightsports (ks) ecu (ok not the ideal, but better than standard) which clearly adds more fuel throughout the rev range with noticeable improvement in smoothness & power.

The AVC-R is a very nice boost controller because it has excellent navigation, good bling bling factor & uses an electronic solenoid rather than just mechanically bleed off boost pressure to the actuator. The price is also very nice...NOT! but heh you get what u pay for.

 

[endless551]

Glenn, have you dynoed ur car? I was running on some RE-something japanese ECU. matching with my Knighsport/turbonetic turbo.. Fuelling was baddddd (0.88 A/F all the way till 6k).. I believe the jap owner of the ECU tuned it to suit the standard turbo or something, probably leaning out across the rev range to get more power.. common thing to do by the japs.. Malpassi fuel press. reg. fixed it easily and economically.. Though its not ideal but I only need a safe and cool engine! :D