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<blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 2159700" data-attributes="member: 27518"><p>You can't, but a compression test should give you an idea of the engine health (it's not the only test, just to see how well the rings are sealing).. As usual with any used engines, stuff that should be checked are</p><p></p><p>a) leaking seals/gaskets (engine with oil patches is a sign of trouble)</p><p>b) timing belt (see if it's in good condition or not)</p><p>c) A/C stuff.. make sure the A/C isn't noisy or making weird noises.</p><p>d) steering rack.. (steering should be light if it has powersteering, and noiseless.. noise is also a warning sign that it needs fixing)</p><p>e) various other stuff, like radiator leakage, etc.</p><p></p><p>Depending on the condition of the car.. there might not be disadvantages at all.. depending on how the engine conversion was done, the wires might be </p><p></p><p>a) clean and routed properly</p><p>b) like a monkey did the wiring while eating a banana.</p><p></p><p>But always remember that repairs will come.. you might be lucky, or you might not..</p><p></p><p>sometimes distributor 'kong' just as you drive back, sometimes suspension just starts leaking at your first 100kms, and a lot more.</p><p></p><p>Either way, you could save on doing the conversion yourself, or you might find you're spending the same amount of money for repairs without even converting the engine yourself.</p><p></p><p>B18CR is a good choice.. just don't expect miracles on the stock headers, intake and ecu.. strangely, I felt underwhelmed driving the stock B18CR on an EK4 body... feels kinda... slow.. (O_o)</p><p></p><p>Light tune would do wonders though, as most of the forummers here running b18C on EK4s will attest.</p><p></p><p>One thing though.. EK+B18C = expensive!! (O_o)</p><p>I'd go for an EG hatch, five lugs and a B18CR anyday.. :P</p><p></p><p>But that's not a choice I'm forcing on you.. just my personal taste.. :P</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shiroitenshi, post: 2159700, member: 27518"] You can't, but a compression test should give you an idea of the engine health (it's not the only test, just to see how well the rings are sealing).. As usual with any used engines, stuff that should be checked are a) leaking seals/gaskets (engine with oil patches is a sign of trouble) b) timing belt (see if it's in good condition or not) c) A/C stuff.. make sure the A/C isn't noisy or making weird noises. d) steering rack.. (steering should be light if it has powersteering, and noiseless.. noise is also a warning sign that it needs fixing) e) various other stuff, like radiator leakage, etc. Depending on the condition of the car.. there might not be disadvantages at all.. depending on how the engine conversion was done, the wires might be a) clean and routed properly b) like a monkey did the wiring while eating a banana. But always remember that repairs will come.. you might be lucky, or you might not.. sometimes distributor 'kong' just as you drive back, sometimes suspension just starts leaking at your first 100kms, and a lot more. Either way, you could save on doing the conversion yourself, or you might find you're spending the same amount of money for repairs without even converting the engine yourself. B18CR is a good choice.. just don't expect miracles on the stock headers, intake and ecu.. strangely, I felt underwhelmed driving the stock B18CR on an EK4 body... feels kinda... slow.. (O_o) Light tune would do wonders though, as most of the forummers here running b18C on EK4s will attest. One thing though.. EK+B18C = expensive!! (O_o) I'd go for an EG hatch, five lugs and a B18CR anyday.. :P But that's not a choice I'm forcing on you.. just my personal taste.. :P [/QUOTE]
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