Drive a Honda Civic Eg/EK Must Read!
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Hi Hi...
Find out you car's actual ECU number...
If it is P08 / P27 / P28 or P30 which are OBD1 based ecu , then yes affected and have this problem.
If your is 100%-ori EK4 1997- then should be FINE. (OBD2A based)
tq
mine is ori EK4 1997
how do i check my ECU number? is it easy to remove this ECU and check? newbie here. just got this car few weeks back
Siauann
Ecu located at front passenger side.
Side panel under the console.
Remove the side pastic cover and you will
Be able to see the ecu...remove some screws
And ecu can be brought out.
Number is at the side of the ecu...
Ecu located at front passenger side.
Side panel under the console.
Remove the side pastic cover and you will
Be able to see the ecu...remove some screws
And ecu can be brought out.
Number is at the side of the ecu...
I know that feel.
I got mine (P27) caps leaked last year, and need to fork rm700 for a replacement at halfcut.
Not much choice as I need the car running ASAP
Now i need to keep a lookout if my replacement ECU going to have bad caps as well
I got mine (P27) caps leaked last year, and need to fork rm700 for a replacement at halfcut.
Not much choice as I need the car running ASAP
Now i need to keep a lookout if my replacement ECU going to have bad caps as well
Location Capacitance Voltage Temperature
C21 33uF 35V 105C
C27 220uF 35V 105C
C31 220uF 10V 105C
C32 33uF 35V 105C
C34 33uF 35V 105C
C36 47uF 10V 105C
C94 100uF 10V 105C
Opened my P30. Above is what i jot it down....
Yea... A few caps are deteriorating.
C21 33uF 35V 105C
C27 220uF 35V 105C
C31 220uF 10V 105C
C32 33uF 35V 105C
C34 33uF 35V 105C
C36 47uF 10V 105C
C94 100uF 10V 105C
Opened my P30. Above is what i jot it down....
Yea... A few caps are deteriorating.
Correct... Get them all change.
Hi E-Tech,
The current capacitors are from Nichicon KME series...
What brands you use for replacement?
Japan brand also :) Hope i can find branded caps here in Klang. So no need to travel to Pasar road.
E-Tech, I found my caps :) Thanks for the help anyway.
---------- Post added at 11:36 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:30 AM ----------
First of all, I wanted to thank E-Tech for bring up this topic.
I did some searching on the capacitors of my P30. My personal thought as below:
The capacitors inside my P30 were from Nichicon and the ratings are stated:
Location Capacitance Voltage Temperature
C21 33uF 35V 105C
C27 220uF 35V 105C
C31 220uF 10V 105C
C32 33uF 35V 105C
C34 33uF 35V 105C
C36 47uF 10V 105C
C94 100uF 10V 105C
6 of the capacitors were Nichicon PR series and C94 I couldn't see the brand but it's a KME series. Nichicon PR series is an obsolete model. It was replaced with PS series which is miniature size, low impedance and for switching power supplies. There is also a better (in my opinion) series - PW which is also miniature size, low impedance and HIGH RELIABILITY for switching power supplies.
There are couple of manufacturers in the market, eg. Rubycon, Panasonic, Vishay etc which is common in the market you can choose from...
In order to choose compatible capacitors, there are few things to look at:
1. Minimum capacitance.
You must know the capacitance, cannot be lower than specified.
2. Temperature.
The one in my P30 was clearly stated 105 degree C. So stick to it so it can withstand/last longer when the capacitor heats up during charging and discharging.
3. RMS Ripple Current.
You will see this in the datasheet. Capacitor will generate heat when charging and discharging current flow (Ripple Current). This R.M.S. ripple current generally is stated at the condition of 100kHz/105 degree C. Higher the better.
4. Endurance/Lifespan
Generally capacitor will have the number of hours tested with ripple current applied at 105C. Higher the better.
5. ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance)
Only some of the datasheet specified, higher ESR increase heat dissipation and aging. Lower the better.
6. Leakage Current.
Flow of leakage current for aluminium electrolytic's increases with temperature. Normally I found the in the range of 3-4uA.
7. Size
Size does matter. If you are replacing the old ones, the same size will be hassle free. No worries on the space constraint and pitch issue.
However, small difference of pitch/height/diameter can be adjusted to cater the space on the PCB (printed circuit board). Best is for the capacitor to sit perfectly (attached) to the PCB.
Normally smaller device cater lower voltage and maximum temperature rating. Miniatured device often have lower lifespan compare to larger device. But, technology is more advance today.
That's all I have for today. Although is easy to match by physical unit which is printed on:- Capacitance, operating voltage and max temperature, don't judge by the look if you are fussy :) Engineers create a datasheet for a reason. Companies don't pay specific engineer (technical writer) just to write out the characteristic for no reason. Knowing details can get better reliability capacitors with your budget.
---------- Post added at 11:36 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:30 AM ----------
First of all, I wanted to thank E-Tech for bring up this topic.
I did some searching on the capacitors of my P30. My personal thought as below:
The capacitors inside my P30 were from Nichicon and the ratings are stated:
Location Capacitance Voltage Temperature
C21 33uF 35V 105C
C27 220uF 35V 105C
C31 220uF 10V 105C
C32 33uF 35V 105C
C34 33uF 35V 105C
C36 47uF 10V 105C
C94 100uF 10V 105C
6 of the capacitors were Nichicon PR series and C94 I couldn't see the brand but it's a KME series. Nichicon PR series is an obsolete model. It was replaced with PS series which is miniature size, low impedance and for switching power supplies. There is also a better (in my opinion) series - PW which is also miniature size, low impedance and HIGH RELIABILITY for switching power supplies.
There are couple of manufacturers in the market, eg. Rubycon, Panasonic, Vishay etc which is common in the market you can choose from...
In order to choose compatible capacitors, there are few things to look at:
1. Minimum capacitance.
You must know the capacitance, cannot be lower than specified.
2. Temperature.
The one in my P30 was clearly stated 105 degree C. So stick to it so it can withstand/last longer when the capacitor heats up during charging and discharging.
3. RMS Ripple Current.
You will see this in the datasheet. Capacitor will generate heat when charging and discharging current flow (Ripple Current). This R.M.S. ripple current generally is stated at the condition of 100kHz/105 degree C. Higher the better.
4. Endurance/Lifespan
Generally capacitor will have the number of hours tested with ripple current applied at 105C. Higher the better.
5. ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance)
Only some of the datasheet specified, higher ESR increase heat dissipation and aging. Lower the better.
6. Leakage Current.
Flow of leakage current for aluminium electrolytic's increases with temperature. Normally I found the in the range of 3-4uA.
7. Size
Size does matter. If you are replacing the old ones, the same size will be hassle free. No worries on the space constraint and pitch issue.
However, small difference of pitch/height/diameter can be adjusted to cater the space on the PCB (printed circuit board). Best is for the capacitor to sit perfectly (attached) to the PCB.
Normally smaller device cater lower voltage and maximum temperature rating. Miniatured device often have lower lifespan compare to larger device. But, technology is more advance today.
That's all I have for today. Although is easy to match by physical unit which is printed on:- Capacitance, operating voltage and max temperature, don't judge by the look if you are fussy :) Engineers create a datasheet for a reason. Companies don't pay specific engineer (technical writer) just to write out the characteristic for no reason. Knowing details can get better reliability capacitors with your budget.
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