Life is such a bore without a conviction....

[jonlsl]

Appreciate if you could recommend a car wax which has a durability of a paste/liquid sealant/wax with the ease of use of a spray bottle(just 1 product). Preferably something that doesn't require buffing. I prefer spray and wipe. This is the reason behind why I resulted to use Optimum Car Wax/Alien Wax.

I have only tried DG 951 Aquawax and Megs Ultimate Quik Wax. Between the two I prefer DG Aquawax because of price and you can use it on glass to get rain-x effect also, but only on the side and rear glass. I found that megs UQW stained easily on my white car so I stop using it. I think the opti spay wax might have slightly more durability compared to Dg 951 not sure a I haven't used Opti yet. DG also has Enviro Shield which is a WOWO product. I haven't tried it. though I saw a bottle in kirsmas pic.

For me I mainly use DG aquawax for layering with DG105 or track claw sealant 3 layers of each gives the car a really deep wet look provided you prep the car properly. I recommended this procedure to another guy and he posted some pics in http://forum.autoworld.com.my/index.php?showtopic=92738&view=findpost&p=1714048

Here are more pics with Dg Track Claw. Bugger even Sifu Darren give his 2 cents oh. http://forum.autoworld.com.my/index.php?showtopic=92738&view=findpost&p=1715028

Hmm... Going by that logic, shouldn't the reference to the DG product be restricted to the AW forum???

Just asking....

@seech You didn't add a quote so not sure which logic you referring to. Since this is advertised by megs and optimum is being used alot here I presume anything goes. I just give my 2cents if I'm allowed to post and people want to read. Somebody posted in AW too much about osren also kena scolding. So here I don't know. how it works. So if somebody like show time ask a question i give my 2cents loh. Until I kena scolding from moderator then have to shut up loh. As I said for me I'm DIY and I use all brands. So what I recommend is only based on what I have tried and what i learnt in terms of skill and technique. I got not reason to keep it to my self so i openly share loh for whoever wants to listen until I'm asked to be quiet loh.

 

[Veloc]

Guys, what is AW forum by the way???

 

[ShowTime]

Guys, what is AW forum by the way???

Darren Chang aka macdude's most visited forum.

 

[jonlsl]

Guys, what is AW forum by the way???

AW=Autoworld Another local auto forum with detaling as well. You can see me, eohl, kris KC2 (lastime lah) etc etc there as well. AW detaling forum is more towards DIY detaliers as most are DIY detaliers there. Its quite strict there, but most of us DIY people hang out there. That is where Sifu Darren put up all his terror cars and work in the "batcave" a.k.a http://forum.autoworld.com.my/index.php?showtopic=96299

 

[Veloc]

Oh autoworld... haha... Short forms...

 

[KrisMas]

Appreciate if you could recommend a car wax which has a durability of a paste/liquid sealant/wax with the ease of use of a spray bottle(just 1 product). Preferably something that doesn't require buffing. I prefer spray and wipe. This is the reason behind why I resulted to use Optimum Car Wax/Alien Wax.

............Do checkout DG aquawax, Dodo red mist, Dodo red mist tropical, Dodo supernatural acrylic spritz (new in the market), CarPro Reload, Blackfire crystal seal, etc. Some I know is easy to apply. I myself stick with Menz Powerlock sealant after trying quite a few sealants. I like it very much and suit my needs and expectations. Easy to buff on/off and quite durable.

Dang...you beat me to it.

Don't have all eohl79 mentioned above but I did tested out the below 'sprays' side-by-side....let see now *checking the date the pic was taken*....back on 28/11/2010 (hey, even though that RM bottle is empty, at least I got one....hahahaha)

My personal experience/observasions, the best in the following characteristics:

1. Slickness - Zaino GF
2. Gloss - Dodo RM
3. Beading - Megs UQD
4. Ease of application (less prone to streaking) - Megs UQD
5. Cheapest per ml - OCW
6. Smell - Zaino GF
7. Cleaning - Dodo RM/Megs UQD
8. Darken the paint - Megs UQW
9. Durability - Dodo RM
10. Compatibility with my other waxes/sealants - Megs UQD
11. Stain trim/rubber - none

what else eh.......oh, I also got CarPro Reload and DG Aquawax but that was later after the above test were done. But the only changes to the above would be to the Darken the Paint - CarPro Reload and Cheapest per ml - DG Aquawax.

My conclusion, all of them are keepers.....so I keep them all....HAHAHAHA.....

Oh...and before somebody ask which is my favourite: it's the Zaino.
And before somebody ask me why: I don't know....I just like it....hehehe...

 

[ShowTime]

AW=Autoworld Another local auto forum with detaling as well. You can see me, eohl, kris KC2 (lastime lah) etc etc there as well. AW detaling forum is more towards DIY detaliers as most are DIY detaliers there. Its quite strict there, but most of us DIY people hang out there. That is where Sifu Darren put up all his terror cars and work in the "batcave" a.k.a http://forum.autoworld.com.my/index.php?showtopic=96299

Talking about Darren Chang again I have yet to see him personally detail a vehicle in his batcave with his own hands. No disrespects here but all of the shots taken are mostly after shots and not taken during the process. I only seen a picture of him doing assessment like taking a paint/carbon fiber thickness reading. I have yet see him actually doing the job like washing,claying,sanding,polishing...etc. Take Mike Phillips from Autogeek for example... he teaches! Advertising the products is another matter.

Unlike KC/seech who is unselfish to teach others without charging a fee in their detailing clinic/workshop. As for Darren even if you pay him to teach you I don't think he will. How many enthusiast that so far has been trained by him? Most of his the THESTAR newspaper articles can be found online and in most forums. It would be great if Darren Chang were to post a video of himself on youtube to SHOW how its done. I can assure you he won't have financial issue getting a good quality HD camcorder.

 

[KrisMas]

Errr....ShowTime, I don't think you should talk about somebody that way if you don't know him.

Wanna see something:

A few of us were there during the soft launch of his new facilities. I took the above pictures with my handphone (AGAIN??!!! DUH!!) in his detailing studio. While lots of VIPs or regulars who owns a single car that's worth more than my lifetime salary were also there, he still got time to give us mere detailing hobbyist a grand tour of his place and also stop by (on and off la) to chit chat while we were at one corner having some refreshments afterwards. He's more down-to-earth person than you think.

 

[ShowTime]

No offense krismas but to me its still an after picture. I wanna see the process he is actually doing it himself alongside with his team.

Like this.

That is Mike Phillips from Autogeek. Great guy.

Or this detailer?

He is Paul Dalton of Miracle Detail.

He shows his craft!

 

[KrisMas]

Just my personal opinion. Comparing Mike Phillips with Darren would be like comparing apple and orange. MP is the Director of Training at AG and it his JOB to show/train/teach...i.e. in order to market AG's service and products. DC is now the director of a big detailing establishment and his job is to make sure that the cars going out from his establishment do not dissapoint his clientele. To be able to do this, you'd need decades of skill and experience. You want to see befores and afters of his works, you'd need to search posts from years back. Believe you me he can and I've seen him removing sanding marks and polishing it to *almost* perfection (as in almost zero hologram) using M85 and a wool pad, way back when he was still at his previous place. Darren is there, where he is right now, not because of his marketing skills, but because of the quality of work he is able to produce, be it personally or by employee he personally trained.

Anyway, we're overboard again.

Oh'oh. Mr Paul eh.... I know an 'old chap' who personally know this guy and visited him often. You wouldn't want to go that way....hahahaha.....everybody has a skeleton in their closet.....

---------- Post added at 08:46 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 05:34 PM ----------

A bit quite eh....I guess you guys are already tired of reading my post, laughing at an old man's senility. So here's something a little different. I blame my mechanics for spilling all the lub/oil when they serviced the engine...

Megs Hyperdressing, CD2 Engine Detailer, DG 253 Tire & Rubber dressing, Zaino Z-16 Perfect Tire Gloss, Autoglym Bumber Care.....those are some of the products that I've tried just for the fun of it. So, whichever product was giving that kind of beading...well...your guests are as good as mine.....

---------- Post added at 08:55 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:46 PM ----------

Oh...and I forgot to mention that you'd need, AT THE VERY LEAST, 10 different type of brushes to detail this magnificently built engine, the pride and joy and truly Malaysian made masterpiece (though I faintly remember noticing some parts and pieces got stickers stating otherwise)...

---------- Post added at 09:01 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:55 PM ----------

This one is serious....I'm not joking. THIS BRUSH IS A NO-NO FOR MUSLIMS AS THEY'RE MADE OF BOARS HAIR. So, non-muslims, be true to the 1Malaysia value and not use this on muslim's car owner.....

.......errrr....I meant cars whose owner are Muslims.....I didn't meant that as a joke....*shish*

---------- Post added at 10:04 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:01 PM ----------

This thread had kinda made me wanting to look back whether or not I've made any constructive contributions over here.

I found this from back in '08....the whole thread can be found here



Here are some of what I was able to achieve with my limited experience.

A few months before these were taken I did the followings:

Clay - Meg's clay with Meg's Quick Detailer as lubricant
M83//W8006 polishing pad via rotary
M80//W8006 polishing pad via orbital
M21//W9006 finishing pad via orbital

The pics were taken after the followings:

Clay - Meg's clay with Last Touch as lubricant
Menz 106ff//W9006 finishing pad via rotary
M21 2.0//W9006 finishing pad via orbital

Engine was washed with Meg's Super Degreaser cut 10:1 and dressed with Meg's Hyperdressing

Some water beadings shots:

Some previous shots of the full car (these are after the first detail):

With the right practice and a lot of patience, not to mention dedication and enthusiasm, lucky for me the car came out very nice.

Thanks for looking.

---------- Post added at 10:07 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:04 PM ----------

I remembered this one very well. Holograms all over the place after a good wash a couple of weeks later (not so severe actually, can only be seen under the sun)....ehehehe.....

 

[ShowTime]

I need to ask... where you get this and how much does it cost? Especially that thickness gauge.

 

[KrisMas]

Back to the future.....April '09....

[quote name='KrisMas' date='Apr 3 2009, 12:17 AM' post='1387403']

Product Name: Optimum Car Wax

Price: Retail Price RM 80

Purchase From: Ultimateshine (local)

Size: 17fl oz or 504ml

Amount used during application: One pump of the sprayer could do ¼ of my front WAJA door panel. I’d say if I were to use this to wax my car once a month, it should last me at least a year.

Label text:
Optimum Car Wax is the only spray wax with a patented UV system (patent # 6,685,765) that protects paint from UVA and UVB. It is also the only spray wax with a patented polymer/Carnauba system that provides up to 5 months of protection (patent # 6,669,763). Optimum Car Wax is safe for vinyl surfaces and moldings and can be used to protect these surfaces as well.
• Easy to use, just spray and wipe
• Environmentally friendly: contains no petroleum chemicals
• One application can last up to 5 months
• Provides mazimum UV protection to help prevent fading
• Non-abrasive: will not scratch or swirl the finish
• Performance Guaranteed

Directions on the label:
Wash the entire car with Optimum Car Wash or Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine. Remove the excess water with Optimum Microfiber Towel or chamois.
Spray Optimum Car Wax directly on the surface and wipe in with a clean Microfiber towel.

Ease of use: It is brain-dead easy to use, just like a quick detailer. Spray on and wipe off.

Smell/Scent: a little sweet scent of coconut.

Consistency: Just a little thicker than water and milky white in color.

Cleaning Ability: The microfiber cloth that I used did get a little dirty after 2 or 3 panels indicating that it does have a very mild cleaning ability.

Appearance: Very glossy, shiny and slick. Well it is a proper wax as oppose to a topper or quick detailer.

Durability: Still testing. So far after one week, my car went through 3 torrential rains and the beading only around 75% weaker (as opposed to a few other sealants that I’ve tested). Surviving quite well I might say.

Pros: Brain-dead easy to use. Just spray and wipe. Don’t need to leave it to haze or wipe off any residue after applying. No residue stain on plastics, rubber, glass, etc.

Cons: Not on the product, but more on the sprayer head. It tends to drip from the spray head when pumping and these droplets tend to produce some streaking after wiping. Also needed to be careful to do a small section at a time as it flashes quite fast and would leave the wax spotting on the surface.

My Personal Ratings:
Application: 9/10 – no sealant so far is this easy to apply (I haven’t tried Optimum Opti Seal or Zaino Clear Seal that are supposedly easier, which is a wipe-on-walk-away product).
Removal: 8/10 – it’s like using a quick detailer, just wipe until you see it flashes off.
Appearance: 7/10 – typical sealant look, shiny, glossy but lack a bit of depth
Beading: 7/10 – nice and tight
Sheeting: 6/10 – as good as you can get for a sealant
Slickness: 6/10 – very smooth and silky
Durability: Still testing, but looking at it’s current performance, it should pass the 1 month mark with ease.

Personal Overall Ratings: 7/10

Overall Comments:
After one week of having it on my car, I’d say I’m very impressed. If this was a normal liquid sealant, it would have been no. 2 on my go-to list, right after Zaino Z2. But if I've just finish polishing and running short of time, this would be the first and only product that I would grab for. I can finish waxing the whole car in around 5 minutes.

Best of regards.
[/quote]

Well....what can I say....it was one of the best spray-on sealant at that point of time.....

 

[ShowTime]

Back to the future.....April '09....

[quote name='KrisMas' date='Apr 3 2009, 12:17 AM' post='1387403']

Product Name: Optimum Car Wax

Price: Retail Price RM 80

Purchase From: Ultimateshine (local)

Size: 17fl oz or 504ml

Amount used during application: One pump of the sprayer could do ¼ of my front WAJA door panel. I’d say if I were to use this to wax my car once a month, it should last me at least a year.

Label text:
Optimum Car Wax is the only spray wax with a patented UV system (patent # 6,685,765) that protects paint from UVA and UVB. It is also the only spray wax with a patented polymer/Carnauba system that provides up to 5 months of protection (patent # 6,669,763). Optimum Car Wax is safe for vinyl surfaces and moldings and can be used to protect these surfaces as well.
• Easy to use, just spray and wipe
• Environmentally friendly: contains no petroleum chemicals
• One application can last up to 5 months
• Provides mazimum UV protection to help prevent fading
• Non-abrasive: will not scratch or swirl the finish
• Performance Guaranteed

Directions on the label:
Wash the entire car with Optimum Car Wash or Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine. Remove the excess water with Optimum Microfiber Towel or chamois.
Spray Optimum Car Wax directly on the surface and wipe in with a clean Microfiber towel.

Ease of use: It is brain-dead easy to use, just like a quick detailer. Spray on and wipe off.

Smell/Scent: a little sweet scent of coconut.

Consistency: Just a little thicker than water and milky white in color.

Cleaning Ability: The microfiber cloth that I used did get a little dirty after 2 or 3 panels indicating that it does have a very mild cleaning ability.

Appearance: Very glossy, shiny and slick. Well it is a proper wax as oppose to a topper or quick detailer.

Durability: Still testing. So far after one week, my car went through 3 torrential rains and the beading only around 75% weaker (as opposed to a few other sealants that I’ve tested). Surviving quite well I might say.

Pros: Brain-dead easy to use. Just spray and wipe. Don’t need to leave it to haze or wipe off any residue after applying. No residue stain on plastics, rubber, glass, etc.

Cons: Not on the product, but more on the sprayer head. It tends to drip from the spray head when pumping and these droplets tend to produce some streaking after wiping. Also needed to be careful to do a small section at a time as it flashes quite fast and would leave the wax spotting on the surface.

My Personal Ratings:
Application: 9/10 – no sealant so far is this easy to apply (I haven’t tried Optimum Opti Seal or Zaino Clear Seal that are supposedly easier, which is a wipe-on-walk-away product).
Removal: 8/10 – it’s like using a quick detailer, just wipe until you see it flashes off.
Appearance: 7/10 – typical sealant look, shiny, glossy but lack a bit of depth
Beading: 7/10 – nice and tight
Sheeting: 6/10 – as good as you can get for a sealant
Slickness: 6/10 – very smooth and silky
Durability: Still testing, but looking at it’s current performance, it should pass the 1 month mark with ease.

Personal Overall Ratings: 7/10

Overall Comments:
After one week of having it on my car, I’d say I’m very impressed. If this was a normal liquid sealant, it would have been no. 2 on my go-to list, right after Zaino Z2. But if I've just finish polishing and running short of time, this would be the first and only product that I would grab for. I can finish waxing the whole car in around 5 minutes.

Best of regards.

Well....what can I say....it was one of the best spray-on sealant at that point of time.....

I guess that time the formula is still the same as now? V2? How about V1?


Thanks krismas for reminding me of something to share with others. I got this in my bookmark.

http://www.chemicar.com/cardetail_wax_offtestreport.pdf

Which I believe its an Official report of the 5 months durability based on their controlled testing?

 

[KrisMas]

I need to ask... where you get this and how much does it cost? Especially that thickness gauge.[/quote]

You mean both?
The torch is a Fenix TK11 (Q5) and it cost me RM120, it's a little out-dated though as you can now find plenty of other torches with higher lumen at that price. Oh....you want to see my collection of torches too...? Naw...that would be out of context. Anyway the TK11 only shoots out 225 lumens max (on paper) but it'll do fine for some defects inspections. And please don't get me started on torches.....please....

That particular PTG is a going-away present from one of the members in our small group of 'crazy' guys. It was vested to me but only as a care-taker, to be a pass-around to those in need of it. As far as I know this is an industrial grade coating thickness gauge which stand at par with its equivalent Positector brand. Tested with the one that Darren is using and the only difference is Darren's one can gauge coating thickness on non-metallic base (as in carbon fibre, etc.) and this one cannot. Acuracy is very much at par with readings up to 1/10th of a micron with +-5% accuracy at those readings. Price? Invaluable.....

 

[ShowTime]

You mean both?
The torch is a Fenix TK11 (Q5) and it cost me RM120, it's a little out-dated though as you can now find plenty of other torches with higher lumen at that price. Oh....you want to see my collection of torches too...? Naw...that would be out of context. Anyway the TK11 only shoots out 225 lumens max (on paper) but it'll do fine for some defects inspections. And please don't get me started on torches.....please....

That particular PTG is a going-away present from one of the members in our small group of 'crazy' guys. It was vested to me but only as a care-taker, to be a pass-around to those in need of it. As far as I know this is an industrial grade coating thickness gauge which stand at par with its equivalent Positector brand. Tested with the one that Darren is using and the only difference is Darren's one can gauge coating thickness on non-metallic base (as in carbon fibre, etc.) and this one cannot. Acuracy is very much at par with readings up to 1/10th of a micron with +-5% accuracy at those readings. Price? Invaluable.....

I asked before a Defelsko PosiTest DFT cost more than RM3K+!! Damn... cost more than my paint and I don't even detail other people's car.

 

[KrisMas]

I was told that this was more like the PosiTector 9000 grade/performance at that point of time. The DFT is more of a mid-range gauge, but more than good enough for detailing usage.

Which I believe its an Official report of the 5 months durability based on their controlled testing?

For LSP, IN GENERAL, I would take whatever durability claimed or tested by the mat salleh over there and divided that by 3. That's the average duration that I can summarise from my observations when trying out different waxes and sealants and comparing to whatever the manufacturers claim, due mainly to our harsh weather and our temperamental climate.

---------- Post added at 11:00 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:55 PM ----------

Oh...and I never had the chance to try the V1....or did I...maybe it's because of the V1 that I bought the V2...can't remember...my sinility (if there is such a word) is coming back again....HAHAHAHAHA....

---------- Post added at 11:23 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:00 PM ----------

And my latest catch (latest as in quite a few months ago)....

....after much dissapointment of not being able to make the Compound II worked to my satisfaction....

 

[eohl79]

[/COLOR]And my latest catch (latest as in quite a few months ago)....

The M101 is one of the best compounds that I have used to date! (not that I have used many compounds yet BTW) It is at the top of my list until I discover a better one :)

When I started surface correction last year, I was with the Optimum trio: Optimum Compound II, Polish II and Poli-seal. Was getting a hang of the the trio but required various pads/wools to do the job. I almost thought most compounds/polishes behaved the same way until the day I worked on one of my car doors which had a 5 year old aged high solids paint - it was real hard. After requiring Osren's denim pads with Osren P40 compound for effective orange peel reduction, the instilled marring marks were a pain to remove. Optimum compound II with wool was just not doing it's thing and time consuming. That was the moment I whipped out the M101 with an LC orange CCS pad. Drool... after just 3 passes even with a light cut pad the finish was just awesome. With Optimum compound II I needed at least a purple foamed wool to remove marring and many passes. Another step with a light polish was all that was needed to remove it (should have tried a finish pad with the M101...). Later on experimenting with Menz range of polishes, etc gave me a whole new feel to the world of compound and polishes.

Here are some pics to share from my archive 4 months back...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8wHut75sciU/Tz_Gw3ATrvI/AAAAAAAABdA/YgtjKzef7yo/s640/IMAG0348.jpg
Figure 1: Before, orange peel galore

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YGkCPhC-Dhs/Tz_HoOwvnfI/AAAAAAAABeQ/tXEiGsC9ALE/s640/IMAG0369.jpg
Figure 2: After Denim pads and Osren P40, orange peel reduced. Marring all over if looked at closely

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M8CXr8DuPVg/Tz_G_AYx8hI/AAAAAAAABeg/KFFXORW0tUA/s640/IMAG0354.jpg
Figure 3: Swirls, marring from the Denim and Osren P40

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nbg7c31_erA/T0DjQouTe5I/AAAAAAAABfU/ilNd2eRneh4/s640/IMAG0393.jpg
Figure 4: Left, after Opti compound II + LC PFW. Right, after M101 compound + LC Orange foam.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qZxYsu6oyRc/T0DjoV0_C9I/AAAAAAAABfU/t49eQPAPuvg/s640/IMAG0397.jpg
Figure 5: Done after polishing.

Bro KrisMas, I have to THANK YOU A LOT for sharing out some of your stuff in your arsenal. It really really was an eye opener. Now the next thing is getting enough $$$ Also to the "old man" aka detailing grandmaster from down south for some simple but very informative tips on the M101.

P.S: Be nice to the guys, go for TT sessions, discuss, exchange, share and learn together. That way sometimes you don't need to buy a whole load of stuff and at the same time get to test various products and come to something that might suit your needs. Gives you loads of experience and see things from different perspectives too.

 

[jonlsl]

@ EOHL79, since you tried m101 try the OSren Crystal Cut 3.0. Starting from sanding marks use the Osren CC3.0 with wool pad. I actually use the lams wool with the actual skin backing, find it less cut than the LC twisted wool and better finish. But in any case use what ever wool you have. Then when the paint becomes clear and shiny you are left with some hologram or swirls. Continue with the Osren CC3.0 now with a black pad to finish off playing with the speed (900rpm max) and pressure depending on type of clear you have. By this stage 90-95% perfect. at this stage you will only be able to see the defect if you stare and find for it. Then finish off with a finishing polish and black pad. let me know what you think. I think this Osren CC 3.0 is an option if you don't want to hunt for m101 and pay megs price and need the job to get done. If you find the Osren CC3.0 slightly too thick you can thin it out with water but not too much as you will have it slinging everywhere. Then let us know what you experience between the two.

 

[KrisMas]

Bro KrisMas, I have to THANK YOU A LOT for sharing out some of your stuff in your arsenal. It really really was an eye opener. Now the next thing is getting enough $$$ Also to the "old man" aka detailing grandmaster from down south for some simple but very informative tips on the M101.

You're most welcome. And...ssshhhhh.....not so loud about the "old man", he might conjure up the lightning to strike you.....hehehe....

@ EOHL79, since you tried m101 try the OSren Crystal Cut 3.0. Starting from sanding marks use the Osren CC3.0 with wool pad. I actually use the lams wool with the actual skin backing, find it less cut than the LC twisted wool and better finish. But in any case use what ever wool you have. Then when the paint becomes clear and shiny you are left with some hologram or swirls. Continue with the Osren CC3.0 now with a black pad to finish off playing with the speed (900rpm max) and pressure depending on type of clear you have. By this stage 90-95% perfect. at this stage you will only be able to see the defect if you stare and find for it. Then finish off with a finishing polish and black pad. let me know what you think. I think this Osren CC 3.0 is an option if you don't want to hunt for m101 and pay megs price and need the job to get done. If you find the Osren CC3.0 slightly too thick you can thin it out with water but not too much as you will have it slinging everywhere. Then let us know what you experience between the two.

Nice one. But I think you forgot to mention to wear proper respiratory protection to prevent over-inhaling of polishing dust.....

 

[jonlsl]

Nice one. But I think you forgot to mention to wear proper respiratory protection to prevent over-inhaling of polishing dust.....

Yah Osren CC 3.0 a bit dusty and should tape the car up properly, hard to remove dust and splatter if land on rubber trim and other nooks and crannies.