Firewall grommets and running cables.

skullx

Junior Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2014
Messages
24
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503
Location
New Zealand
Hi Guys,

New to the forum. I've just purchased a 2003 Stock Mitsubishi Turbo Airtrek here in NZ and I am in the process of installing a boost gauge and stereo amplifier. Is their any simple way in these vehicles to get cables etc. through the firewall or best practices for drilling holes in the firewall?

Thanks
 
There's no easier way. It's hard to reach thru the firewall. My boost. Gauge vacuum pipe actually goes thru the side fender and thru the door sills.
 
im not sure NZ is a right hand steering or left.. but if a right hand drive, there's a hole near the throttle cable. u may use that hole for boost gauge.. there's a vacuum line at top end of rocker cover, tap the hose for the boost tee..
 
Thanks for the info. Its a RHD so I'll check out next to the throttle cable when I get a chance. Anyone had any experience fitting the boost gauge where the factory clock is?
 
Thanks, I'll check that link out.
The boost gauge I brought is a perfect fit in place of the analogue clock on the dash. Just waiting for the glue to dry overnight. Bonus there is power and an illumination wire right their too.
 
Cool. Do share pictures when done.

I'd like to keep the clock. In fact, the first thing that caught my attention in the cabin was the clock. Feels really classic and in a way, classy. Much like older vintage cars. It's a nice 'watch' to me. :) But yeah, many removed it to mount a display or boost guage there.
 
Thanks, I will do.

I wasn't too keen on removing it either but it was a nice spot and I decided the stereo has a clock instead.
 
Quick photo.

https://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/attachments/514683.vB

https://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/attachments/514684.vB
 
Hi Guys,

New to the forum. I've just purchased a 2003 Stock Mitsubishi Turbo Airtrek here in NZ and I am in the process of installing a boost gauge and stereo amplifier. Is their any simple way in these vehicles to get cables etc. through the firewall or best practices for drilling holes in the firewall?

Thanks

When I fitted my boost meter, I just look for the original wiring that needs to come in from engine compartment thru' the firewall. Make small hole, push thru' the tube then seal up....:driver:
 
Haven't decided on a colour yet, the gauge will display in blue, green, white or red but the button is on the back. Thinking red to match the dash display.

https://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/attachments/514724.vB

https://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/attachments/514725.vB
 
images
 
Stock boost is 0.6 bar = 8.7psi. Stock internals can boost up to 1 bar = 14.5psi no problem. My gauge is up to 1.8 bar = 26.1psi.
 
Somethings not right then, it easily reaches 12/13psi when boosting if not 15psi. Only thing I did was change the blow off valve as I believed it was leaking.
 
Somethings not right then, it easily reaches 12/13psi when boosting if not 15psi. Only thing I did was change the blow off valve as I believed it was leaking.

u must check if there's any vacuum leak.. i heard that stock BOV cant withstand higher boost. better get it change.. and don't forget to change the plug as well. stock plugs will missfire if boost above 0.5 bar..
 
u must check if there's any vacuum leak.. i heard that stock BOV cant withstand higher boost. better get it change.. and don't forget to change the plug as well. stock plugs will missfire if boost above 0.5 bar..

I see, here's the full story. Originally there would be a loud "Pshhhhhh" under heavy acceleration/boost, that's when I presumed something was leaking. I had the vehicle smoke tested and they found no leaks. At that point, I changed the factory BOV for an aftermarket recirculating one. (Thinking it was failing) No more "Pshhhh" noise at high boost. Problem solved, or so I thought.

Only now I discover it running at 13psi. I presume it was running too higher boost earlier and the stock BOV was failing hence the "Pshhhh" noise and the new BOV is able to cope with the higher pressure.
Whats failed, how can I test the Wastegate?

Next problem is after installing an Apexi Power Intake (Pod filter) the engine will, when going up a slight incline, drop revs from say 1,100 to 1,000rpm and back up and down again constantly, shudder at times.

This all doesn't sound good :/
 
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