Proton 4G13/4G15....Satria/Wira/Saga

[N/A Proton Brudder]

That PNP is a bit crude. You did the sharp edges on purpose?

i had a hard time with just a cordless drill and sandstones to grind with. Did you mean the edges of the outer inlet or the cast marks leftover ? this is 50% prpgress btw. i havent finisbed polishing with wet sandpaper and cloth scrub. plus those damn cast marks are hard to scrape of . must need some kind of ultra powerful laser beam to get it of somehow hahaha.

plz reccomend me a technique. it took me almost a whole week for just the intake mani and havent got to the throttlebody. also i just finished removing the 4g13 and assembling the 4g15 soon. jsut that vdo ecu im still hunting -_-

i tought it should have came out kinda like this guy did https://www.revworksinc.com/assets/images/Graphics/Porting/subyheaderported.jpg

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

also i grinded the inlet to the markings of the new gasket i aligned to it with a sharpie. bit bigger opening is good right ? does it have to me like stainless steel kitchen ware kinda shiny ?

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

And what can you make of this ? powerzone made this https://www.pintaram.com/u/edeisman/1734916472251243509_1510617681

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

And as quote by powerzone :
Powerzone
* For this reason, the intake port is usually not polished to a mirror finish. A slightly rough, satin finish is excellent in promoting fuel atomization thereby increasing the combustibility factor of the air-fuel mixture. The slightly rough surface also prevents the fuel droplets from condensing on the port walls while on their way into the engine cylinder.* http://www.powerzone.co
m.my/tn4.html

 

[Izso]

And what can you make of this ? powerzone made this https://www.pintaram.com/u/edeisman/1734916472251243509_1510617681

This is what I meant. PZ pnp is smooth and rounded edges except the center wall that has a razor sharp edge to split the two chambers. Yours has sharp edges all over.

Casting metal is that stiff huh? Maybe the power of your grinder isn't as good.

 

[vr2turbo]

This is what I meant. PZ pnp is smooth and rounded edges except the center wall that has a razor sharp edge to split the two chambers. Yours has sharp edges all over.

Casting metal is that stiff huh? Maybe the power of your grinder isn't as good.

I thought inlet manifold is like aluminum alloy only, but alloy already can be harder.....

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

Guys, also can mitsu punya Trottle body pnp with vdo ecu+ harness ? i recently found out that i have a mitsu harness and ecu set when swapping it after i fried my harness due to a short.

my Tb look more like this : https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NVCUC0MmSK4/UlFFPxNV4QI/AAAAAAAAJqk/DOL5PNjyVlM/s1600/4.jpg

rather than this with more plastic cover thing : https://ehautolink.com/webshaper/pcm/gallery/nm/b8035d8f7cc64337f0ac46b6a5d39a961524119307-nm.png

also down heres is my manifold+TB.Mitsu right ?

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

btw, what's your guys taughts if i swap to Satria GTI VDO throttlebody to the 1.5 vdo . Mapping issues? just adjust idle seed cotrol valve ? imf not mistaken, can pnp.

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

ohh.and still cannot find the SVDO 1.5 ecu locally.if in case its a mitsu thats actually on my 1.4 car with 1.5 swapped block, can it be retunedby a special mechanic . can an AFPR on high pressure compensate for the loe fuel mapping ?

 

[Izso]

Guys, also can mitsu punya Trottle body pnp with vdo ecu+ harness ? i recently found out that i have a mitsu harness and ecu set when swapping it after i fried my harness due to a short.

also down heres is my manifold+TB.Mitsu right ?

How the heck did your prev mech run a Mitsu harness on a VDO system? There are sensors that the VDO has the MMC does not. If that mech managed to sort this out you should go back to the same guy cuz he's a genius.

btw, what's your guys taughts if i swap to Satria GTI VDO throttlebody to the 1.5 vdo . Mapping issues? just adjust idle seed cotrol valve ? imf not mistaken, can pnp.

Can la. But why? If not mistaken the TB is bigger and if I recall correctly people who did this ended up with "On/Off" throttle. But that might just be a tuning issue. The butterfly plate was too large so even with minimal throttle there was too much air going in or something like that.

ohh.and still cannot find the SVDO 1.5 ecu locally.if in case its a mitsu thats actually on my 1.4 car with 1.5 swapped block, can it be retunedby a special mechanic . can an AFPR on high pressure compensate for the loe fuel mapping ?

You're seriously going all out eh? This kind of frankensteining will have its own problems. I don't recommend it purely as a convenience statement saja. The VDO ECU will automatically adapt to its presets so even if you do compensate here compensate there, it'll be a matter of time you'll need to redo everything again because the ECU would've adapted. Unless you opt for standalone ECU - then sure. Frankenstein all the way

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

This is what I meant. PZ pnp is smooth and rounded edges except the center wall that has a razor sharp edge to split the two chambers. Yours has sharp edges all over.

Casting metal is that stiff huh? Maybe the power of your grinder isn't as good.

wouldn't that be half blocked by the head inlet that is not

How the heck did your prev mech run a Mitsu harness on a VDO system? There are sensors that the VDO has the MMC does not. If that mech managed to sort this out you should go back to the same guy cuz he's a genius.


Can la. But why? If not mistaken the TB is bigger and if I recall correctly people who did this ended up with "On/Off" throttle. But that might just be a tuning issue. The butterfly plate was too large so even with minimal throttle there was too much air going in or something like that.


You're seriously going all out eh? This kind of frankensteining will have its own problems. I don't recommend it purely as a convenience statement saja. The VDO ECU will automatically adapt to its presets so even if you do compensate here compensate there, it'll be a matter of time you'll need to redo everything again because the ECU would've adapted. Unless you opt for standalone ECU - then sure. Frankenstein all the way

sorry Iszo , i was mistaken. i misheard my dad told me it was a 2001 model. but its actually a 2000 one. so yeah. just fried wiring harness but 18 y/0 original MMC

 

[Izso]

sorry Iszo , i was mistaken. i misheard my dad told me it was a 2001 model. but its actually a 2000 one. so yeah. just fried wiring harness but 18 y/0 original MMC

Ah that makes more sense. So if it's a MMC then you can't be using the Satria VDO TB. Why bother seriously? Work on the internal mods, the TB is more than enough to handle the power levels you have now.

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

stilll tho..... what abut the using the 1.5 block on the stock 1.3 mitsu ecu. can something still be done to supplement the mapping while i look for the VDO ecu and do a full conversion ? my dad told me he knows a mech that could probably kacau the mmc ecu a bit to compensate just for the moment. this is just temporary. will this actually work out ?will the engine starve out before i can even shift to the next gear ?


*urgent question* : also can an AFPR on high fuel pressure setting help prevent the engine leaning out ?

 

[sanekit]

stilll tho..... what abut the using the 1.5 block on the stock 1.3 mitsu ecu. can something still be done to supplement the mapping while i look for the VDO ecu and do a full conversion ? my dad told me he knows a mech that could probably kacau the mmc ecu a bit to compensate just for the moment. this is just temporary. will this actually work out ?will the engine starve out before i can even shift to the next gear ?


*urgent question* : also can an AFPR on high fuel pressure setting help prevent the engine leaning out ?

didnt u just said your engine is MMC? i'm trying to understand the whole thing again, so u got 1.5 vdo engine that u wanna swap with your 1.3 mmc but u dont have the wiring? if the 1.5 block u have now is from a MMC, just swap in, then go find emanage or similar piggyback to compensate. MMC can use piggyback. VDO i dont think can.

 

[Izso]

stilll tho..... what abut the using the 1.5 block on the stock 1.3 mitsu ecu. can something still be done to supplement the mapping while i look for the VDO ecu and do a full conversion ? my dad told me he knows a mech that could probably kacau the mmc ecu a bit to compensate just for the moment. this is just temporary. will this actually work out ?will the engine starve out before i can even shift to the next gear ?


*urgent question* : also can an AFPR on high fuel pressure setting help prevent the engine leaning out ?

I don't understand what is going on anymore. You have a 1.3 MMC Wira. You want to put in a 1.5 VDO block? Why la? If you're going to do this change the whole engine, wiring and all. It'll be so much cheaper in the long run.

didnt u just said your engine is MMC? i'm trying to understand the whole thing again, so u got 1.5 vdo engine that u wanna swap with your 1.3 mmc but u dont have the wiring? if the 1.5 block u have now is from a MMC, just swap in, then go find emanage or similar piggyback to compensate. MMC can use piggyback. VDO i dont think can.

Sigh.. Unichip can la dude.

 

[sanekit]

Sigh.. Unichip can la dude.

eh? MMC can la use emanage. one of our friends did that on his 1.5 mmc satria.

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

i alreeady have the harness problem dat the hafkat i got the block from dont even have the ecu. its been robbed and stuff. things like those in Kuching are hard to come by compared to west msia . i dont want to fork out any more money. i just need the ecu for now. now need to deal with if it can live or not with the 1.3ecu.since its mmc, Safc neo,emanage pun jadi la.plus no one answred my question about using AFPR by SARD.......

 

[sanekit]

i alreeady have the harness problem dat the hafkat i got the block from dont even have the ecu. its been robbed and stuff. things like those in Kuching are hard to come by compared to west msia . i dont want to fork out any more money. i just need the ecu for now. now need to deal with if it can live or not with the 1.3ecu.since its mmc, Safc neo,emanage pun jadi la.plus no one answred my question about using AFPR by SARD.......

AFPR doesnt force in more fuel. only helps to maintain a steady supply of fuel. if u need more fueling, get larger injectors and bigger flow pumps. but you'll need ecu or piggyback to control the air/fuel ratio.

 

[Izso]

eh? MMC can la use emanage. one of our friends did that on his 1.5 mmc satria.

My sigh was VDO can use unichip.

i alreeady have the harness problem dat the hafkat i got the block from dont even have the ecu. its been robbed and stuff. things like those in Kuching are hard to come by compared to west msia . i dont want to fork out any more money. i just need the ecu for now. now need to deal with if it can live or not with the 1.3ecu.since its mmc, Safc neo,emanage pun jadi la.plus no one answred my question about using AFPR by SARD.......

I think the block shouldn't be too different from the MMC one. I don't remember anything being specifically different - but you need to check with your mech to see if the water channels line up.

AFPR is a luck game if you're not buying reputable brands. SARD original AFPR costs RM500++ so since yours I suspect is 100+, then that's the M'sian version of the AFPR, which means quality is questionable and will highly depend on your luck. Or you can opt for a better reputable one like from Works or GFB or something la.

Also, AFPR = adjustable fuel PRESSURE regulator. It doesn't pump in more or less fuel, it just regulates the pressure of which the fuel is pumped in. If you wide open it then you'll likely flood the injector and go real rich. Too rich doesn't exactly protect anything and will result in plenty of carbon but overly lean is worse. All depends. If I recall correctly the ideal PSI was 3.4 for my Wira. You probably can try the same and dyno tune it.

 

[sanekit]

My sigh was VDO can use unichip.


I think the block shouldn't be too different from the MMC one. I don't remember anything being specifically different - but you need to check with your mech to see if the water channels line up.

AFPR is a luck game if you're not buying reputable brands. SARD original AFPR costs RM500++ so since yours I suspect is 100+, then that's the M'sian version of the AFPR, which means quality is questionable and will highly depend on your luck. Or you can opt for a better reputable one like from Works or GFB or something la.

Also, AFPR = adjustable fuel PRESSURE regulator. It doesn't pump in more or less fuel, it just regulates the pressure of which the fuel is pumped in. If you wide open it then you'll likely flood the injector and go real rich. Too rich doesn't exactly protect anything and will result in plenty of carbon but overly lean is worse. All depends. If I recall correctly the ideal PSI was 3.4 for my Wira. You probably can try the same and dyno tune it.

roger on the VDO only can use unichip.

for the FPR pressure, u mean kPa (bar) right? not psi? my wira i set it to 4 bar at idle. mech set it up that way when dyno tune.