Suprima S

Yeah , OCT is a must for CFE engine. I will install it after my first service :rock:
For OCH so far still no solution. The stainless steel OCH still under development by pomen bawah pokok.
iinm zordaq already develop one. the OCH. or maybe some other workshop. but i did saw the post before.
 
i dont know. my friend kena SC said brake sensor. she can shift, but when rev the gear doesnt engage. free rev 2k rpm saja. hahaha
Sounds like her bush was damaged. Linkage hasn't dropped out but there's looseness when selecting gears. When slotted into what appears to be D, she must have remained in N. When in N, engine will only rev to 3K. Only need to glance at the meter cluster to see which gear is engaged.

I believe the bush on it's own, is tough enough for normal usage. Problem arise when starting the car's with a weal battery, you may hear tak tak tak sound from the gear selector. I suspect the voltage dip caused locking solenoid to temporarily seize up. So, some people managed to start the engine but couldn't move out of P. Hence in their alarm, resorted to 2 handed pull to move out from P. It's more of a solenoid issue rather than the bush

Solenoid seize may be resolved by stopping the engine and unplugging the car's battery for several seconds.
 
iinm zordaq already develop one. the OCH. or maybe some other workshop. but i did saw the post before.

Yeah i saw that post also before, but if not mistaken only few OCH were make by Zordaq because they wanted to test it first but then i think the test failed. I send my previous car to Zordaq to service and i saw that they are still changing original Proton OCH for CFE customers.

I think if change the OCH every 40k follow what proton suggest then it should be fine, the OCH is only cost around 160.
 
Sounds like her bush was damaged. Linkage hasn't dropped out but there's looseness when selecting gears. When slotted into what appears to be D, she must have remained in N. When in N, engine will only rev to 3K. Only need to glance at the meter cluster to see which gear is engaged.

I believe the bush on it's own, is tough enough for normal usage. Problem arise when starting the car's with a weal battery, you may hear tak tak tak sound from the gear selector. I suspect the voltage dip caused locking solenoid to temporarily seize up. So, some people managed to start the engine but couldn't move out of P. Hence in their alarm, resorted to 2 handed pull to move out from P. It's more of a solenoid issue rather than the bush

Solenoid seize may be resolved by stopping the engine and unplugging the car's battery for several seconds.

Yeah yesterday i talk to my sister because she have this issue previously and she said that the issue is the bush. SC change the bush and it working fine. nothing to do with brake sensor. Hope SS wont have this problem .
 
Sounds like her bush was damaged. Linkage hasn't dropped out but there's looseness when selecting gears. When slotted into what appears to be D, she must have remained in N. When in N, engine will only rev to 3K. Only need to glance at the meter cluster to see which gear is engaged.

I believe the bush on it's own, is tough enough for normal usage. Problem arise when starting the car's with a weal battery, you may hear tak tak tak sound from the gear selector. I suspect the voltage dip caused locking solenoid to temporarily seize up. So, some people managed to start the engine but couldn't move out of P. Hence in their alarm, resorted to 2 handed pull to move out from P. It's more of a solenoid issue rather than the bush

Solenoid seize may be resolved by stopping the engine and unplugging the car's battery for several seconds.
then SC guy give wrong info. haha.
 
When my sis first got the car my bro and I was checking it out and out of nowhere we discuss about the safety feature of the driver side window-anti trap power window.

I know its a common feature this day esp those with auto up function but lets be honest...has anyone ever test it using their own bodypart?

We decided to have ago using our arm and its working so well that we started to stick our neck in. No harm occured so it works.

The things car guys do when they are bored.....
 
When my sis first got the car my bro and I was checking it out and out of nowhere we discuss about the safety feature of the driver side window-anti trap power window.

I know its a common feature this day esp those with auto up function but lets be honest...has anyone ever test it using their own bodypart?

We decided to have ago using our arm and its working so well that we started to stick our neck in. No harm occured so it works.

The things car guys do when they are bored.....

Never tired that before. But, it is a quite interesting thing to do .. hahaha !!
Will give it a try soon :rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Yeah yesterday i talk to my sister because she have this issue previously and she said that the issue is the bush. SC change the bush and it working fine. nothing to do with brake sensor. Hope SS wont have this problem .
Even if you do not currently have this bush issue, I still recommend every owner to familiarise themselves with opening the center console. It's better than being stuck somewhere far from home
 
@STATIC365 since you're a new owner, I suggest looking for OR making your own, aftermarket headlamp wiring harness. This is the cause of the premature headlamp bulb's blowing out
 
@STATIC365 since you're a new owner, I suggest looking for OR making your own, aftermarket headlamp wiring harness. This is the cause of the premature headlamp bulb's blowing out

Thank for the advice but can you explain more on this? How is the aftermarket headlamp wiring harness?

I have no idea, apologize.
 
When my sis first got the car my bro and I was checking it out and out of nowhere we discuss about the safety feature of the driver side window-anti trap power window.

I know its a common feature this day esp those with auto up function but lets be honest...has anyone ever test it using their own bodypart?

We decided to have ago using our arm and its working so well that we started to stick our neck in. No harm occured so it works.

The things car guys do when they are bored.....
I tested on my nissan x gear too. Then duno how to reset, window like go up, go down in auto. Hahaa.. Then sc guy teach window down/up press longer.
 
I tested on my nissan x gear too. Then duno how to reset, window like go up, go down in auto. Hahaa.. Then sc guy teach window down/up press longer.
The auto window seems is the same for most cars......lol
 
Thank for the advice but can you explain more on this? How is the aftermarket headlamp wiring harness?.
From what I hear, the stock headlamp harness is insufficient to handle the current. The 'Fix' is to rewire it with better cables tapping from the fuse box in the engine bay. Kindly note that this is an add-on. The original cable is left in place and used only to trigger the secondary circuit.

Since it's only an add-on, should you need to visit SC for claims, you can easily remove it to avoid possible voiding of warranty
 
From what I hear, the stock headlamp harness is insufficient to handle the current. The 'Fix' is to rewire it with better cables tapping from the fuse box in the engine bay. Kindly note that this is an add-on. The original cable is left in place and used only to trigger the secondary circuit.

Since it's only an add-on, should you need to visit SC for claims, you can easily remove it to avoid possible voiding of warranty
Wah! stock cannot handle, really bad design already.....
 
Will Always think Burnt bulbs is bulb fault.....lol
Too many instances to be just the bulb's fault. Since Philips and Osrams also suffer the same premature failure, fault had to lie somewhere else. This leaves you with few possibilities... Current, cable, bulb connector or even heat. An aftermarket harness addressees all these points. The best part is that you don't have to void your warranty from splicing the original attachments.
 
From what I hear, the stock headlamp harness is insufficient to handle the current. The 'Fix' is to rewire it with better cables tapping from the fuse box in the engine bay. Kindly note that this is an add-on. The original cable is left in place and used only to trigger the secondary circuit.

Since it's only an add-on, should you need to visit SC for claims, you can easily remove it to avoid possible voiding of warranty

Wow ! I'm shock haha. Thank for the tips.
Have to check with Suprima group how to prevent this, maybe can add grounding cable ?
 
Yeah Suprima S have few minor issue, sometimes really 气死人. But then indeed it is a good car :laugh:

What are the stock tyres now? I think changing to Michelin PS3 or 4 will improve it by a large margin.

Suprima, the chassis and handling is very well sorted. The CVT is bad. The engine is thirsty. But it's fun when I test drove it. Confidence level very high on its response, even on its stock crap tyres.

I guess you need to be extra vigilant on the car's "patterns" and do preventative maintenance like what bro parakey told you about that stupid bush. If its such a cheap part, I would keep one spare in the car itself with the tools to replace it.
 

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