4age 20v BT knocking

Raymond_Hu

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Hi all, I have using my BT for few years. So far very satisfied with it without any problem. Recently it started to have knocking during certain condition:

1) Using RON95, knocking will appeared when suddenly full throttle in low gear and low speed
2) Using RON 97, a little bit knocking may abit when suddenly full throttle in low gear and low speed
3) If add fuel line cleaner during pumping petrol, it will resolve 80% of the knocking.

Anybody knows what may be the causes of the knocking? Could it due to too much carbon built up in the combustion room?
 
Pls check ur distributor position whether it's retard or advance...bout the petrol, I pumped
RON95+octane booster and it feels smooth...less knocking or pinging...bout carbon built up, u can pour the engine flush..use it as recommended coz if u leave it too long in ur engine, it will 'eat' all ur seals...the best is to overhaul ur engine,then u can see clearly whats the root of ur prob...IMHO
 
can i know what octane booster u're using? I found this Rm22 works octane booster on mudah.my .. it is made by lucas. Dunno if it is any good
 
hi all sifu..

My car also felt knocking at low speed and low rpm after change engine oil ( normal 4000km service ma)... after 1thousand km.. then back to normal!.. will my timing too high ?

thanks for advised...


btw, i tried ron 95 + booster from TORCO.. few slightly improvement on torque.. but too costly to try avtime i pump in petrol.. end up result = tuned emanage with RON95 works well and knocking can be reduce ... hahaha.. hope this info can help..
 
I think it the fuel in Malaysia making this knocking problem. With 95, I had to very2 slowly open the throttle to minimize the knocking. With 97, I can open hard, but if too hard, then the knocking will start....

But with 100 and 1++, I can do anything without any knocking at all. Plus, I can get 180km/h in third at only 4,000rpm and still get 14km/l. 20v not lagi best, but best giler.....
 
I use unifide octane booster...cost me only RM 13.00 and it lasts me couple of fill ups..each bottle has a volume of 355ml...each fill up l poured 150ml...those brand like torco, Lucas, Nitrous Express etc are the premium brands...lucky u all from klang valley, has a plenty of brands to choose from...juz the matter of where the place can u buy the things
 
best is just send it to mech and get everything check and tune...
maybe it's already old... need to adjust the distributor timing...
get it adjusted according to the fuel you will use...
otherwise your trial and error to eliminate this problem might causes other bigger problem to the engine...:biggrin:
 
This is an interesting topic. Looking at the octane booster that you guys talked about, Theoretically, higher compression engines, in this case 11:1 for BT requires higher octane rating fuel.

I've seen other forums talking about octane booster myths. If your engine is not designed for higher octane rating, you'll lose the power output.


It will be great if someone can confirm on the fuel grade 20V BT is designed for. As for octane booster, I think further research is needed before you add it into your fuel tank..

Anyway, just for sharing purposes, this website is showing RON100 for 20V engines
http://www.club4ag.com/technical_main.htm
 
Last edited:
That 4AGE 20V that use Ron 91/92 probably comes from the caribbean region...correct me if l'm wrong:idea:
 
I think maybe too much carbon...

And by the way, we always hear that same cars in foreign countries can run on much lower octane i.e RON91 with no problems. I don't know why that is not the case here. RON 95 also knock. Previously I suspect that the RON ratings are different for different country. But later I realised it is actually a standard unit. SO I really don't know what kind of stupid petrol the G provide us with here.
 
maybe RON is standard for every country but the additives are different for each country..
 
20V actually design for RON 100. For low RON use, I think, we should go for stock 4ag ECU from the UK or Aussie. Over there they also use RON95 like us. But again, maybe due to their geographic location, the RON95 works well. Latitude and humidity also have effect on the combustion.

Last time I use to mix RON95 with racing fuel in a ratio of 50:1. Base on calculation, I should get somewhere at RON96+. But the feeling and performance, I think it is somewhere over RON100. Will try to increase the ratio more to sustain the performance like RON100 or RON98.
 
20V actually design for RON 100. For low RON use, I think, we should go for stock 4ag ECU from the UK or Aussie. Over there they also use RON95 like us. But again, maybe due to their geographic location, the RON95 works well. Latitude and humidity also have effect on the combustion.

Last time I use to mix RON95 with racing fuel in a ratio of 50:1. Base on calculation, I should get somewhere at RON96+. But the feeling and performance, I think it is somewhere over RON100. Will try to increase the ratio more to sustain the performance like RON100 or RON98.


how do u calculate RON? please share with us :biggrin:
 
I'm no genius, but with wonder of google we can learn things.
http://www.motorsportsracingfuels.com/OctaneCalculator.html
 
Pls check ur distributor position whether it's retard or advance...bout the petrol, I pumped
RON95+octane booster and it feels smooth...less knocking or pinging...bout carbon built up, u can pour the engine flush..use it as recommended coz if u leave it too long in ur engine, it will 'eat' all ur seals...the best is to overhaul ur engine,then u can see clearly whats the root of ur prob...IMHO


I have never adjust the distributor position since I convert my BT. The knocking just appear recently. When I pump Caltex ron 95, it knocking like hell even cruising at highway with suddenly heavy foot. The knocking will be eliminate >80% when add fuel line cleaner during pumping petrol.
 
hmmm... when u put in fuel system cleaner, knock will reduce? Maybe try Injector cleaning? Fuel regulator replacement? Fuel filter replacement? Fuel pump not working smoothly?
 
it called wear n tear...

best like meg_omen said, sent to reputabale mech...
do a full tuning...you'll be suprised then... :D

One more thing...please do take note that 20V are not very torque at low range...sluggish...but you need to know and learn where you engine power comes in...
 
cannot agree more with bro meg_omen n bro chinozie...
i myself need to send my car to a full tuning...
but not for now...
budget constraint hahahahha ~
 
it called wear n tear...

best like meg_omen said, sent to reputabale mech...
do a full tuning...you'll be suprised then... :D

One more thing...please do take note that 20V are not very torque at low range...sluggish...but you need to know and learn where you engine power comes in...

thanks bro Chinozie. I knew that is the best solution. I just want to try seeking for alternative way without send to mechanic for overhaul as not many reputable machanic around my area. Just to share, last time went to meet a so called "reputable mechanic". What was frighten me is when he finish service my car, he asked whether my "Levin 2 litre" is powerful or not? (because he saw Twincam 20) on the camcover ......:withstupid::withstupid:
anybody know reputable mechanic near Johor Bukit Indah??
 

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