best engine swap for SAGA FLX
- Thread starter flarery
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Reading your post, I remember meeting one of my mechanic's customer. We were having drinks and talk about old times. He used to race and go for rallying.
He said, during our younger times, we mod our cars, make it as low as possible. Now as age catching up, we mod our cars as high as possible. Family man now and he drives a Harrier......hhahhahahhah
---------- Post added at 08:28 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:20 AM ----------
Even though not brand new you are getting a car, that is what bro. gunner meant. Our times not that easy, the best is a Motor bike....hahhaha
Anyway, 1.3 what do you expect. If you need more power BOT is the answer, as the other minor mods I don't think you will be happy with the power increase. But then BOT need a couple of thousand RM cost....
Ha, keyword: Automatic.
You can't really enjoy the power be it 1.6 or 1.3 with AT.
I have 1.6 AT myself with 1300kg body.
Really really bad acceleration unless high rev (4-6500rpm)
prepare abt rm2000-2300 if u want to change to 1.6 stroker.
u can retain the 1.3 piston and u will have a high comp 1.6.
if u want to turbo the use 1.6 piston or cfe piston(not sure can fit or not)
u will get better torque,hp is not increase by much.
yours is auto so u wont feel the gain as much as on a manual.
turbo will require change of piston to reduce the compression.
u can bolt a turbo kit alone but on stock ecu and injector,not much gain for the money spent.
again,yours is auto so dont expect much.google and find how much power is loss
in an autobox.
i would suggest just go for easy bolt on part and not turbo.
this way u will retain the running cost and durability of the motor.
plus,its easy to reverse the mod and sell the part seperately if u want to sell the car.
use the money to mod your new car in the future.
bolt on part like:
-extractor and exhaust system
-air filter
-crank pulley
-better suspension
-better brake
-good tire
-some strut bar(front 2 point,front lower arm,rear anti roll bar)
total for the part above can go beyond the cost of a turbo kit but remember than once u install
the turbo kit u will need to upgrade your brake,suspension,cooling,chassis,tire as well.
so u will end up spending more.
goin fast is not a simple matter of squeezing hp out of the engine.
the surrounding parameter such as braking,cooking,handling must also be talen inco
on engine transplant,not sure if the 1.6 cps engine is a direct swap to the blm.
get the manual gb.
flarery : save yourself from the trouble of working on an automatic 1.3L. Even if you made it pop 130hp, it will guzzle gas like a 240 Volvo and already at 50% of its life duration. By the time : you can only shred the weight of the car.
or cheaper : buy yourself a throttle controller to make it a little more responsive to the torque. proton's drive by wire system generally the main reason the performance sucks. And second : the punch CVT gearbox. the laziest gearbox I've ever met. Literally you want to downshift to overtake, you have to 'punch' it with high revs.
or cheaper : buy yourself a throttle controller to make it a little more responsive to the torque. proton's drive by wire system generally the main reason the performance sucks. And second : the punch CVT gearbox. the laziest gearbox I've ever met. Literally you want to downshift to overtake, you have to 'punch' it with high revs.
Do in stages. Get the stroker kit fitted and enjoy the additional oomph, because the feel won't last long before you want more. Then probably can BOT from there......
I've heard it will fry your ecu or the throttle body computer because it keeps interfering the signals.
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People see rubbish I see gem...
Not test want to build something out of it.As a test mule for future mods?
Beside what taikor gunners has mentioned. This is just my idea.
If you want to BOT your engine. Get the CFE block. The block is slightly different from NA block it is more sturdy and the water jackets are more IINM. dump in the 1.6 rods or if can get aftermarket rods which are stronger couple with 1.6 piston. Send the crankshaft for hardening process, fully balance it.
Or just get a halfcut CPS and swap it in...but STILL THE AT BOX HAVE TO GO!!!!
Actually maybe many don't know the 1.3 engine is very good at producing power. but you need patience and know how to extract that power out. Dyno proven (on Dyno Dynamics) with light mods...the 1.3 can output 95-97whp on a MT....I'm not joking ya....this figure is achievable with stock cams, stock ECU, stock injector, stock fuel pump....
Now also you have that engine, why not straight away proceed in building it?
CFE still new, so fast got halfcut? Using CFE block and internals is almost like swapping to CFE instead of BOT 1.3.
Not just the water jackets, the oil squirter as well to aid piston lubrication. I think. Or I got confused with other engines ahah.
But the oil squirter will have some effect on piston as its shooting upwards while piston is moving up and down.
Now also you have that engine, why not straight away proceed in building it?
CFE still new, so fast got halfcut? Using CFE block and internals is almost like swapping to CFE instead of BOT 1.3.
Oh yes u can find cfe block for sale.not sure if its from halfcut as its only the block.
Piston oso easy to find esp online.
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