Heap Light On, RPM Drops !!

[jtys]

tonytony- ya, retuned. In fact several times adi.

 

[siangmh]

Not really lost in power.

I think it may due to the petrol booster that i add in last Sat. It has kept in store room for too long already, so maybe its d culprit.

Just refill another tank yesterday, will see how things goes this evening.

Re-set ECU / Tuning
My mech also did it after replacing the TB gears. (Cost me RM30, if just tuning alone, with the palm kit device) ( If it due to TB/TB gear change, then tuning is come with it)

 

[jtys]

siang:wat petrol booster r u tokin bout? Or isit air/vacuum booster? interested 2 noe tanx

 

[tonytony]

the last time i put petrol booster in my tank din have the problem. in fact, i din feel anything diff aswell.
looks like you'll need to change mechanic to sort the problem out if its still there

 

[siangmh]

The petrol booster is those concentrade liquid that pour into your petrol tank, for each refill. Suppose to feel more power & lower fc....(In Cantonese are called: Tai Lek You)

I have some leftover which i kept for too long, dunno how many years already, then i thought what the heck, petrol also been kept over billions of years, so this should be alright? so just pour in lar...

I try it on old car (1979 Mit Lancer) & 1997 corrola 1.6(a) (friend's car), it works, feel slightly more power, FC only better off during highway(comparing w/o fuel booster), city drive no different in fc. (The fc savings on highway on the corolla worth so much until my fren bought a whole box fr Kedah hometown)

But too bad, no effect on my yr2000 1.5a wira, highway fc only marginally better..

 

[siangmh]

Now the "K-Link Fuel Saver" sells at rm5 per tablet, for each 30litres of petrol.

Mech claims that does feel slightly more "power". but i have yet to try lar....maybe next outstation trip will try 1 & see how ler

 

[tonytony]

Hi. Jus trying 2 help. D prob I experienced b4 was dat wile idling sumtimes mati engine. So I cek wit my mech, replaced fuel filter n was fine. Was tinkin maybe if filter was cloged; wen sensor start 2 triger d compensate wud cos rpm 2 drop. Maybe m wrong....sori.
Anyway, currently m goin thru quite similiar prob like urs. But not so much rpm up & down. Mine takes bout 5-7 secs 4 tb 2 compensate wen a/con kicks in. TB is new(hol set; gear+isv mitsu), alternator is new, fuel filter is new.....was using adjustable fpr now replace back my ori fpr oso same. Duno wats hapening....got headache.:confused_smile:

wow, you've changed so many things and re-set the ecu still have this prob. my idling prob was solved by changing to a 2nd hand unit TB.

 

[siangmh]

May i ask: what is FPR stand for? Fuel Pump Relay? What is its function?

 

[tonytony]

FPR=Fuel Pressure Regulator
its to hold back some pressure for use when you're flooring the accelarator

 

[siangmh]

Update, the sudden accelerate juddering doesn't disappear with my 2nd tank of petrol...still there....

Any idea? or its still TB related?

 

[minikar]

the jerk can be from petrol supply or ignition. my best guess> is coz by your TB.

Or did you mess wif your injector when changing TB?

Last time my car jerk is coz of fuel pump not enough supply.

 

[tonytony]

yeah, it could be the TB. drive it back to your mechanic and ask him to check again. do you still have the old TB ? test by reinstalling the old TB to see of jerking is still pronounced

 

[siangmh]

My old TB? i still using the ori one & only TB ler, just change those plastic gears thingy only......

But i also suspect due to TB, bcos before fixing this TB, no such problem, after fixing TB, this problem occurs already....

Fuel pump, as suggest by bro minikar, sounds very logic to me, but just too coincidence lar, right after TB fixing, fuel pump become problematic already? too coincidence ler...all the while no accelerate judder one...

Will faulty spark plug make accelerate juddering?

 

[minikar]

Plug also, check the plug color

You spent several K in fixing the rpm prob, why don't you do a compression test (wet & dry) as well to prove me wrong that your car don't need a top overhaul.

A small leak in your combustion valves might hv caused your car too big load for low rpm, when engaging air-con and heavy alternator

 

[tonytony]

several k ??? did you spend that much dude ??

by gears do you mean the sensors ?

 

[minikar]

you imagine how many times switching, changing car parts, dismantle, alternate, change back, on and off " buka-pasang"... the 'upah' service change should near 1k kua, not to mention the part $$$

 

[siangmh]

Plug also, check the plug color

On 2nd thought, since now idling still very smooth, plug shld be still ok, right?. Besides, i also occationally clean them using dremal wire mesh. Last time clean it 2 weeks ago. Its NGK G power, tiny platinum tip, single arch.

You spent several K in fixing the rpm prob, why don't you do a compression test (wet & dry) as well to prove me wrong that your car don't need a top overhaul.

Frankly, repairings + upgrades + servicings, its does costs several k, but spread over several years of my ownership lar. If all happen in 1 year, me also pk lar like that. Ha ha ha ha.

I recalled major ones: aircond compressor & service >rm500, electronic distributor cost about rm500, 4 pcs of tyre > rm400, tacho meter about rm200, timing belt > rm200, new ori 80v alternator about rm400, recond 90V alternator rm140, engine mountings few hundreds, water pump rm160, ATF machine flush twice about rm400, rear absorbers about rm200, engine top & mid block gaskets + carbon clean > rm500, power windor bracket + door lock set >rm300, anti-theft metal plate + security ignition lockset about rm300, 90W head light wiring rm120, mini compressor & GK & magnet >rm300 etc damn long list to go on.... Me also lost count already :embaressed_smile: ..

A small leak in your combustion valves might hv caused your car too big load for low rpm, when engaging air-con and heavy alternator

But then my case aircond dont cause problem to RPM wor. Alternator reading is also ok, charging >13V anytime. whether its 80v or 90v altornator.

Just the head light distort RPM only (after install 90v alternator), although now (put back ori 80v alternator) is really minimise distortion already, just that still not 100% disturbance free if switch on head light. He he he, previously (b4 change to 90v alternator) is 100% disturbance free, so now i just wish to fix it back to old time's condition, guess i asking too high liao :embaressed_smile: ?

So about the lost in compression & too high engine load, doesn't sound like its relating to it? since idling RPM steady, engine smooth & aircond & alternator still run effectively?

If really lost compression alot, shld result in white smoke already right? & also serious lost in power right? But mine no smoke at all & not lost alot of power wor. But of course its not as powerful when its was new fr factory lar.

I also wish to top overhaul too, fancy for clean, rejuvenite, lifeful, efficient engine :regular_smile: but now PK already lar, somemore top overhaul is not urgent issue lar....

Soli for being long winded....:embaressed_smile: & but really thanks to all sifus

 

[siangmh]

several k ??? did you spend that much dude ??

by gears do you mean the sensors ?

:embaressed_smile: .....i did spend that much....over years...

Its the TB gears that i've change. Not the sensor.

 

[minikar]

haha, quite a detail on the expenses on your second wife. wif all the delicate and luxurios your given her, if i am a female ... i really wanna be your gf *lol

 

[tonytony]

dude, u are one hella passionate person on cars man