HONDATA ECUs? Where lah?

for hondata and tuning go to anuar jln ipoh. there are also many vtec turbo project being done there..
 
shiro,

bro, peak ignition too low leh.. Still can go.. i would bump at least 2-3 degree more on lower revs and taper back 2 degrees down to 26.5 at 8000rpm..
 
shiro,

bro, peak ignition too low leh.. Still can go.. i would bump at least 2-3 degree more on lower revs and taper back 2 degrees down to 26.5 at 8000rpm..

I'm not sure you mean mine or yours, but my one knocking when at 27ish at 6-7K at peak (O_o), and that one is already at 12.5AFR :P

I actually had to retard some of the ignition because of knocking.. well, I'm waiting to rework the head before I retune, so on hold for a while.
 
I'm not sure you mean mine or yours, but my one knocking when at 27ish at 6-7K at peak (O_o), and that one is already at 12.5AFR :P

I actually had to retard some of the ignition because of knocking.. well, I'm waiting to rework the head before I retune, so on hold for a while.

its just look like stock p30 base map thats u made some change 1-2 degrees change its not help lots

if for a stock 16a/16b its can go up to 34 degree with afr 13.4 4000-6500 rpm range just depend how far can set your car pushing to max HP&torque to keep more high power band at top range rpm

some tips for u bro
high AFR low timing doesn't means its was solve of knocking
 
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its just look like stock p30 base map thats u made some change 1-2 degrees change its not help lots

if for a stock 16a/16b its can go up to 34 degree with afr 13.4 4000-6500 rpm range just depend how far can set your car pushing to max HP&torque to keep more high power band at top range rpm

some tips for u bro
high AFR low timing doesn't means its was solve of knocking

Yeah, it doesn't, but I'm registering knock at 5-7K whenever I run 28's at those ranges. And the knock sensor keeps retarding the ignition I added on. Maybe I should consider smoothing the combustion chamber and seeing if I can bump up a few more notches on the ignition.

Anyway, high ignition isn't really key to power either.. it depends on the burn rates you're getting in order to get the peak pressure of the combustion, so that it exerts the most leverage on the crank.

Actually, I did run it up to 34, but upon detecting knock, it retards it by 7 degrees, and I actually lose power when I checked with the accelerometer.
 
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Anyway, high ignition isn't really key to power either.. it depends on the burn rates you're getting in order to get the peak pressure of the combustion, so that it exerts the most leverage on the crank.

Actually, I did run it up to 34, but upon detecting knock, it retards it by 7 degrees, and I actually lose power when I checked with the accelerometer.
on stock engine, i don't think you'll need more that 30degrees ignition @ WOT. Honda's head are efficient than other car makers. what we want is PPP to occur at somewhere between 12-14 degrees ATDC. I experience power loss after optimum ignition and if i go further i'll get knock.
The B16 Honda's heads are so efficient and they need less ignition advance compared to Mitsu's heads. I think this is because the burn rates are better with Honda's engines.
 
on stock engine, i don't think you'll need more that 30degrees ignition @ WOT. Honda's head are efficient than other car makers. what we want is PPP to occur at somewhere between 12-14 degrees ATDC. I experience power loss after optimum ignition and if i go further i'll get knock.
The B16 Honda's heads are so efficient and they need less ignition advance compared to Mitsu's heads. I think this is because the burn rates are better with Honda's engines.

Long time no see, zaki.

Yeah, the burn rates are probably very efficient. As for the peak pressure position, I think it's determined by the stroke length, as the leverage on the crank is determined by this factor.

but yes, about 28's are the maximum I can ever run, depending on hot/cold weather.
 
Long time no see, zaki.

Yeah, the burn rates are probably very efficient. As for the peak pressure position, I think it's determined by the stroke length, as the leverage on the crank is determined by this factor.

but yes, about 28's are the maximum I can ever run, depending on hot/cold weather.

Long time no see...hehehe
yup, the PPP or BMEP depends on a lot of variables like rs ratio, bs ratio. theoretically we can determine the required ignition advance at every rpm at any engine load. but in the end, the final number won't be the same as calculated values.
i would like to ask you or anybody, do you dare to run extremely lean at WOT? something like 15-16....?
 
Long time no see...hehehe
yup, the PPP or BMEP depends on a lot of variables like rs ratio, bs ratio. theoretically we can determine the required ignition advance at every rpm at any engine load. but in the end, the final number won't be the same as calculated values.
i would like to ask you or anybody, do you dare to run extremely lean at WOT? something like 15-16....?

Lowest I dare go is 14.... never 15. but usually even ath 13.5 and below, you can see if the power drop is evident, and even manipulating ignition won't help it much.

I think 15 is runnable with retarded ignition.. but how long is the question. if it's it's a lean spike that occurs for just a second or two, I think the engine would just cough with no problems.. if more, then I think something would give (or get hot)
 
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