Hydraulic Lifters for 4G93T

i know about the moly, iam using the amway's, hehe.. solid lubricant is the future as they say it in nano technology

Esther can also be used. It's a direct extraction of OIL... The more ester the engine oil cointains, the more lubrication it provides via protecting the contact surface because it's a polymer....

The best thing... Ester xyah pkai additive to make it smell good. Ester smells good naturally. That's what industry uses to make perfume. Haha..
 
u smell oil jugek ker? same2 ler us both, dat y sumtin i grammar wrong2 woo..
 
u smell oil jugek ker? same2 ler us both, dat y sumtin i grammar wrong2 woo..

Didn't really intend to smell it. But ter"smell". However, the natural physical property of ester is the good smell. Fruit, flower, perfume all the aroma comes from ester. Just different mixture with other chemical composition will result different smell.
 
ester based lube is good, but is really expensive. i prefer sumthing cheaper and be able to give similar protection and performance, hence the selection of elf, bardahl, etc

does ester lube get rid of the lifter noise speed?
 
ester based lube is good, but is really expensive. i prefer sumthing cheaper and be able to give similar protection and performance, hence the selection of elf, bardahl, etc

does ester lube get rid of the lifter noise speed?

Hehe.... Not sure about that... But I've tried LUCAS FS, doesn't does much help in the first 1000km. Then it was drained off... Tried putting washers into the relief valve... tappet still noisy...

Haiz... haven't try the ester base... But price is almost like LUCAS 20W-50.
 
if its dat bad, then u shud be looking at the 20w-50 jer ler, hehe.. my lifters are quiet still keeping quiet after the bardahl 1 treatment, still keeping an ear on them
 
if its dat bad, then u shud be looking at the 20w-50 jer ler, hehe.. my lifters are quiet still keeping quiet after the bardahl 1 treatment, still keeping an ear on them

Nvm... I might be ordering the performance tappet from Aussie. Anyway, it's still better and cheaper than the OEMs...

At least it's something i can eliminate from my problem list I future. Have some peace in mind.
 
indeed speed, if u have sum extra benjamins, then getting those lifters does sound like a good idea. dont forget to post pix of them
 
indeed speed, if u have sum extra benjamins, then getting those lifters does sound like a good idea. dont forget to post pix of them

It looks like the OEM. But have bigger hole along the lifters. In 4G63t, they are only found in e8 and above/dsm. In fact it's already there since long time ago. But only used in the ralliart's rally car. They were never done for 4g9x.

But an old time engineer from Mitsubishi RND Australia came out from Mitsubishi and designed it for 4G9x. Will open a new thread as comparison when I have it.
 
no need to open new thread ler, nanti i cant find ler.. hehe

post it here, i think it still is releven to the topic. how much does the set cost again?
 
no need to open new thread ler, nanti i cant find ler.. hehe

post it here, i think it still is releven to the topic. how much does the set cost again?

Very much depending on the Aussie Dollar.
But right now it's <RM600. Compare to the OEM which cost RM40-RM50 per piece.
 
dam can't sleep tonite, so thinking of this thread pulak !

bro speed, very unfortunate that ur lifters are giving u noise ... suspect ur lifters gonna liau, after the overheating accident. RM600 still cheaper than changing 2nd hand engine head :)

bro xtreme, why did u need to out that bardahl thing?? after u done the washer thing still go tik tik tik ???

last time i also tried motul oil for its moly properties...din help with tappet. thicker oil or thinner oil also won't help, as per my experience. now i'm using cheap cheap mineral 20-50 duckhams.....still no noise :). but i must say, for engine smoothness, definitely semi-syn better than mineral lo.....can't use full-syn as engine oil and makan oil dy

---------- Post added at 06:14 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 05:47 AM ----------

Hehe.... Not sure about that... But I've tried LUCAS FS, doesn't does much help in the first 1000km. Then it was drained off... Tried putting washers into the relief valve... tappet still noisy...

Haiz... haven't try the ester base... But price is almost like LUCAS 20W-50.


bro, IMHO no need to bother with experimenting with oil....especially expensive ones !!! last time my engine when change to new oil, tappets will be quiet at
if ur oil pump is working fine, and u've already increased the spring rate in the relief valve, then the reason for lifter noise may be broken lifters (suspect caused by overheating). but i also think unlikely coz of the reason below:

experience: i have previously changed my engine head due to overheating. once engine head was changed, tappet noise still there. so mechanic experimented and changed a few of my old tappets (those that were in the overheated engine head) to the new engine head, result = still making noise. then i did the washer thing, result = all quiet. conclusion, old tappets were ok despite being overheated.

new theory for bro speed: after reading ur plight, and after ur engine overheated, could it be that ur entire oil pump is f**ked ???? this could happen due to the excessive forces at work when engine overheated and/or oil mix + water.

if this is so, then theoretically what is happening is that the oil pump got no more power to pump enuf oil up to the engine head and despite a strengthened spring rate on the relief valve to retain oil in top engine head, lifters still got not enuf oil to operate in normal mode. in the 1st place not enuf oil is being pumped upwards due to faulty oil pump!! IF this is so, then its also very dangerous for ur engine. another sign of low oil pressure is low idling speed especially after engine temperature is at 'Normal' reading on the meter. engine also will be like wanna mati. suggest BEFORE u spend & buy the new lifters, install an oil pressure gauge and test test the psi reading on oil pump first.
 
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tony, sumtimes i go stopid, hence why i tried 200ml of the mono40 oil + 15w-40 shell, lol. then the damn tappet noise re-surfaced, and i poured a can of bardahl-1 in my desperate attempt to suppress the noise, tapi tahan 2hari jer.. but, i cant put aside the fact dat d car has been efficient on fuel for the last few days, i whacked like always jer pun..

iam wit u about the lifters, as always tony. since the noise resurfaced after the overheat, then dat may be the cause of the lifters' noise
 
Just a guide for Kenny,

Oil Pressure readings for the 4G93 without oil cooler
Idle (Hot) - 1 -1.5bar
Normal driving - 3.5 - 4.5bar
Boosting - 5 - 6bar

The above is just a guide. Will be lower if you have an oil cooler or using thinner oil. Mitsu always have low oil pressure on idle and this is well documented worldwide. I have had if for years without much issue. Most important is when you're flooring it. Pressure should be consistent. But I think you only hear the lifters when its on idle?? If it makes noise till 7k rpm. Then I suggest more shims!! Hahahahah... jk jk

Quite hard to get a new oil pump outside unless you willing to pay around 700-800 for a new unit from proton. No uprated ones, sorry. I have friends that swap in a new oil pump but after a while still tick tick tick... BUT doubt its your oil pump since its a NA pump and pressure should be better. Just get your mech to check with a good old pressure guage at the OEM pressure sensor location.

And just incase you're installing the new lifters here's something from Jeff Lucius my all time favourite mistsubishi guru http://www.stealth316.com/misc/installing_new_lifters.doc

Good Luck
 
bro alucard,the pressures above measured at which loc?issit at the filter header?if i were to add in oil pressure sensor,where would be the good n practical loc to put:hmmmm:
 
On the block at the OEM pressure sendor location or at the oil pump housing aka filter housing. Pressure will be slightly higher at the oil pump housing but not much prolly about 0.1 - 0.2bar.
 
bro alucard,the pressures above measured at which loc?issit at the filter header?if i were to add in oil pressure sensor,where would be the good n practical loc to put:hmmmm:

The pressure within the engine really doesn't differ much. All moving fluids will have quite even pressure. Might differs 0.1-0.2 bars. As long as u're not measuring the pressure on the oil sump, it's ok... Lol... Just kidding mate.

On the block at the OEM pressure sendor location or at the oil pump housing aka filter housing. Pressure will be slightly higher at the oil pump housing but not much prolly about 0.1 - 0.2bar.

And U're my all time favorite mitsubishi friend. Lolx... And good that I know the lifters can be replaced without having the cams removed. Thanks bradder....
 
tony, sumtimes i go stopid, hence why i tried 200ml of the mono40 oil + 15w-40 shell, lol. then the damn tappet noise re-surfaced, and i poured a can of bardahl-1 in my desperate attempt to suppress the noise, tapi tahan 2hari jer.. but, i cant put aside the fact dat d car has been efficient on fuel for the last few days, i whacked like always jer pun..

iam wit u about the lifters, as always tony. since the noise resurfaced after the overheat, then dat may be the cause of the lifters' noise


bro, i dont understand. previously once u've done the washer thing, was the lifters ok? lifters just need oil to operate, it doesn't matter what grade/viscosity of oil is it, as long as it has sufficient oil to operate normally, there will be no tik tik tik.

actually i'm surprised that after doing ur washer thing and no overheating incident ur lifter noise came back.....mind further elaborating further what happened after u've added washers into the relief spring valve and lifter noise returning? we can share share experience and join forces on thinking hat to solve the problem

---------- Post added at 07:08 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:20 PM ----------

Just a guide for Kenny,

Oil Pressure readings for the 4G93 without oil cooler
Idle (Hot) - 1 -1.5bar
Normal driving - 3.5 - 4.5bar
Boosting - 5 - 6bar

The above is just a guide. Will be lower if you have an oil cooler or using thinner oil. Mitsu always have low oil pressure on idle and this is well documented worldwide. I have had if for years without much issue. Most important is when you're flooring it. Pressure should be consistent. But I think you only hear the lifters when its on idle?? If it makes noise till 7k rpm. Then I suggest more shims!! Hahahahah... jk jk

Quite hard to get a new oil pump outside unless you willing to pay around 700-800 for a new unit from proton. No uprated ones, sorry. I have friends that swap in a new oil pump but after a while still tick tick tick... BUT doubt its your oil pump since its a NA pump and pressure should be better. Just get your mech to check with a good old pressure guage at the OEM pressure sensor location.

And just incase you're installing the new lifters here's something from Jeff Lucius my all time favourite mistsubishi guru http://www.stealth316.com/misc/installing_new_lifters.doc

Good Luck

excellent link ! i see now that mitsu engines have a rocker arm + spring mechanism to transfer camlobe movement to lifter !!

its a bit different to mazda engines http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/60818/hydraulic_lash_adjuster_noise_on_199093_mazda_16l_dohc.aspx

for mazda, camlobes have direct contact on HLA to depress it.

for instances whereby a new oil pump is installed and lifter noise is still evident, can i speculate that the reason for this would be increased part tolerances through regular wear and tear on engine parts (specifically where the rocker arm/spring/camlobe/lifter valvetrain mechanism for mitsu engines), hence even after replacing to new oil pump, the OEM relief valve spring rate is still insufficient to maintain enuf oil up in engine head for lifter to use (only theory and speculating)

the theory is this: as engine parts become smaller through wear and tear, the clearances between components increases leading to increased oil flow rate around the valvetrain assembly, hence resulting in low oil volume and little oil being retained in engine head for lifter to use. thus OEM spec oil pump is still not sufficient. i must admit that this theory maybe wild, as it is unimaginable a new oil pump's relief valve spring rate is still now good enuf for lifters.

however, considering the wear and tear theory above, then a new OEM spec oil pump will do nothing to eliminate lifter noise (as per ur buddy's experience as well). the correct procedure would be to firstly check for psi reading on the old pump to determine if oil pump pressure is within spec, followed by increasing the relief valve spring rate on the old oil pump (to make the spring harder to depress) hence slowing oil flow rate which would result in increased oil volume in engine head. then lifter is able to use the engine oil for its intended purpose(s). this should solve the problem unless like bro speed's case, his engine actually seized and overheated recently, which would bring a whole new dimension to the tik tik problem, which is something might have been broken.

i don't buy OEM manufacturer's theory that lifter noise problem will be solved with a larger inlet hole. the manufacture has correctly identified a starvation of oil problem on the lifter, and yet did not correctly identify the root of the cause of the oil starvation - which is soft spring rate on on oil pump relief valve. of course with a larger inlet hole in the lifter, more oil will be channeled in and eliminate the tik tik noise, but it will only do so assuming that oil flow will forever be maintained as a constant basis for the life of the car, and we know that this will definitely not be the case becoz oil flow is controlled by the relief valve spring and this spring will get softer and softer over time. granted, the new 're-worked' lifters would probably last a good 5 years or more, but the problem will come back ! to me, its a matter of cost-benefit approach, its so much cheaper to 'harden' the spring rate than to replace all 16 lifters in the engine. BUT with this DIY approach, suppliers don't make much money and THAT is the root cause of it all :mad:
 
lol, like i said, sumtimes i just go whacky..

here is the long elaborated story of how my lifters came back to lives and haunt me, lol

after adding the extra washer, it was all okie.. den, i found out dat joshua eliminated the ticking diesel noise in a modified hilux turbo diesel by using a mono50 weight oil. dat diesel was running smoothly witout the well known clatter of any diesel engine.

after sum time, i cam to a shop and accidentally saw a mono40 weight oil, and the crazy light bulb in my head lit up, lol. just to try maa, u know? if a mono50 is able to quiet down a diesel, den a mono40 weight oil shud be able to help a petrol, at least in my case to keep the noise suppressed down. during dis time, i found out dat my fc got better, but 2 days after i poured 200ml into the crank, i notices a slight noise dat is very well known, a slight only.. den, worrying dat the noise wud get worse, i decided to try a well known oil additive (again, wit the crazy bulb..), the bardahl-1 and the slight, slight noise again disappear for a couple of days.

today, the noise isnt apparent, but as i said the fc got better and iam still on my last fuel fill, 20hengget since last tuesday, it has been around 200km since den
 
The pressure within the engine really doesn't differ much. All moving fluids will have quite even pressure. Might differs 0.1-0.2 bars. As long as u're not measuring the pressure on the oil sump, it's ok... Lol... Just kidding mate.

true also :biggrin:
 

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