Idea setup ?!

[irontech]

Sifus,


1) 3x low range price AMP (1 for tweeter, 1 for front & real components,
1 for sub)

1x active crossover connect after HU, to 3x amp.



2) 1x middle range price AMP for front & real components, 1x amp for sub.
(using passive crossover components)



Method A, 3x amp + 1x active crossover PRICING EQUAL to Method B 2x Amp



Eh, the method A could produce much better?

 

[oldskolboyz]

For me, If you have limited budget.. try find 2nd high end amp.. just have 2 set-up.. eternal XO depend on your HU credibility.. can U describe your HU..

a) Full Active set-up
b) Semi Active/Passive set-up

 

[irontech]

For me, If you have limited budget.. try find 2nd high end amp.. just have 2 set-up.. eternal XO depend on your HU credibility.. can U describe your HU..

a) Full Active set-up
b) Semi Active/Passive set-up

HU = sony GT550.

 

[Tohsan]

Sifus,


1) 3x low range price AMP (1 for tweeter, 1 for front & real components,
1 for sub)

1x active crossover connect after HU, to 3x amp.



2) 1x middle range price AMP for front & real components, 1x amp for sub.
(using passive crossover components)



Method A, 3x amp + 1x active crossover PRICING EQUAL to Method B 2x Amp



Eh, the method A could produce much better?

Ideal setup sound more like dream setup to me

anyway this is the system we all dream about have a look:

Car - new Beetle
HU - Denon DCT-1 (black) / McInstosh
processor - Zapco DSP-6SL
speakers - scans ring radiator, morel CDM54, seas 8", scans 23W with passive (front)
amplifier - Milbert 235ab x 2, McIntosh MC602 x 2
Electrical - 200A alternator x 2, deep cycle batteries x 3
Wires - dont care whether got effect on SQ, but they will cost 1/2 of the total system costs.....
Sound dampening - 3 layer dynamat or equivalent all around
Installation - expect to take at least half a year for optimum speaker placement


Car - Audi A4 or Honda Civic Modulo Rising Spirit or VW Golf GTi with DSG
HU - Clarion HX-D2
Speakers - Seas RT27F, Seas RM110, Seas RW165, Seas SW300
Amps - Brax X2400.2GE for tweeter and mid, Brax X2000.2GE for midbass and Abyss Hammer for Sub keke :twisted:
Electrical - as long as can jalan and no apache/jetfighter inside the car, maybe some caps here and there :twisted:
Wires - kimber kable
sound dampening - whole car with dynamat and brax xvibration
installation - nicely tucked in for close to stock appearance but open boot can vomit electricity!

Deck - Denon DCT 1
Xover - PPI FRX 456
Tweets - Morel Supremo
Mid Range - Hertz ML500 Ribbon Midrange
Mid Bass - Scanspeak Revelator 7"
Bass - Phase Aliante 12"
Amp for Speakers - McIntosh MC4000M
Amp for Sub - Zapco 750 AG
Interconnect
Deck - Xover - Zero noise 6.0
Xover - Amp - Chord (tweets); RF Riot (Mid Range); Transparent (Mid bass); MIT (Sub)
Speaker Cable
Tweets - Chord; Mid Range -Ixos gamma Geometry; Mid Bass - Transparent; Sub - MIT
Dampening; Dynamat Extreme + Brown Bread.

HU - Denon DCT-1 (Black)
Processor - Zapco DSP-6SL
Speakers - Seas RT27F, Seas RM110, Seas RW165, Seas SW300
Amplifier - Milbert 235ab x 2, Brax X2000.2GE for midbass and Hammer for Sub
Electrical - 200A alternator x 2, deep cycle batteries x 3
Wires - No specific brand but it will cost a bomb
Sound dampening - Dynamat and whatever else they offer for car all 3 layers
Installation - Neat & Clean


Mcintosh MX5000 H/U
Alpine H900 processor
Genesis R1 tweeters
Audio Technology 18H midrange/midbass
JL Audio 12w6v2
Genesis DMA/DMX/DMX or Phd Class A
$25,000 worth of stealth audio cables

maybe not the most exotic car, but a platform that should yeild the best car audio system in the world

Mcintosh MX406
TRU F2A
2 sets Rainbow Platinum Active CS 275.28
2 units Milbert 235ab
Tru Hammer for sub
Aliante Neo sub

Car: no preference yet
HU: MX5000
Proc: Alpine H900
Drivers: Scanspeak 2xR2904/7000, 2x12M, 2x18W, 1x23W all put on dash..... HAHAHA.... will need huge deep dash
Amp: 3 pairs of Sinfoni 60.1, 1x TRU Hammer
RCA: All Nordost Valhalla
Speaker cable: All Nordost Valkyrja
At least 150A alternator with 2 deep cycle batteries
Car full dynamatted and brax xvibrationed

:regular_smile: :regular_smile: :regular_smile:

 

[oldskolboyz]

HU = sony GT550.

If I not mistaken GT550 have 3 preout (front/rear/sub) & biult in XO only for sub woofer, can U check Ur HU manual & confirm it.. Are serious in ICE or just ada bunyi cukup..

 

[irontech]

"or just ada bunyi cukup.." :confused_smile:

Yes, GT550 built 3x RCA n only sub got XO tuning. Well, I asking these two method purpose want to find out which mix & match better for value of $. Thus asking 3 low range amp match with 1 active XO.

"serious in ICE" ? Yes n NO.

Yes, I would prefer do study theory 1st before I take action.
No, Im not loaded, cant simply take out RM 10-20k or more to spend one short.



Tohsan....those setup u mentioned not cheap, but loaded ppl toys. :regular_smile:

 

[appleyard]

Toshan
A single Denon Hu or a Zapco processor will make up his all system budget :)

No need to use the active xover/3 way xover as (I think) you may thought your HU has not enough pre out for 3 amp setup.

Using 2 amp is chaper than 3 amp. Use a mono and 4 channel should be enough. i would go for plan B as you may not regret it in the future. I dont know what amp are you referring to for mid price but if its reliable and could last you more than 5 years then its worth getting it. you would'nt want your amp to stop working after 2-3 years just because you want to save a bit of RM.

 

[Zenn]

irontech whats your budget la buddy? we can help by scouting for 2nd hand items from the local forums as well as some shops...

 

[acidcoller]

Ideal setup sound more like dream setup to me

anyway this is the system we all dream about have a look:

Car - new Beetle
HU - Denon DCT-1 (black) / McInstosh
processor - Zapco DSP-6SL
speakers - scans ring radiator, morel CDM54, seas 8", scans 23W with passive (front)
amplifier - Milbert 235ab x 2, McIntosh MC602 x 2
Electrical - 200A alternator x 2, deep cycle batteries x 3
Wires - dont care whether got effect on SQ, but they will cost 1/2 of the total system costs.....
Sound dampening - 3 layer dynamat or equivalent all around
Installation - expect to take at least half a year for optimum speaker placement


Car - Audi A4 or Honda Civic Modulo Rising Spirit or VW Golf GTi with DSG
HU - Clarion HX-D2
Speakers - Seas RT27F, Seas RM110, Seas RW165, Seas SW300
Amps - Brax X2400.2GE for tweeter and mid, Brax X2000.2GE for midbass and Abyss Hammer for Sub keke :twisted:
Electrical - as long as can jalan and no apache/jetfighter inside the car, maybe some caps here and there :twisted:
Wires - kimber kable
sound dampening - whole car with dynamat and brax xvibration
installation - nicely tucked in for close to stock appearance but open boot can vomit electricity!

Deck - Denon DCT 1
Xover - PPI FRX 456
Tweets - Morel Supremo
Mid Range - Hertz ML500 Ribbon Midrange
Mid Bass - Scanspeak Revelator 7"
Bass - Phase Aliante 12"
Amp for Speakers - McIntosh MC4000M
Amp for Sub - Zapco 750 AG
Interconnect
Deck - Xover - Zero noise 6.0
Xover - Amp - Chord (tweets); RF Riot (Mid Range); Transparent (Mid bass); MIT (Sub)
Speaker Cable
Tweets - Chord; Mid Range -Ixos gamma Geometry; Mid Bass - Transparent; Sub - MIT
Dampening; Dynamat Extreme + Brown Bread.

HU - Denon DCT-1 (Black)
Processor - Zapco DSP-6SL
Speakers - Seas RT27F, Seas RM110, Seas RW165, Seas SW300
Amplifier - Milbert 235ab x 2, Brax X2000.2GE for midbass and Hammer for Sub
Electrical - 200A alternator x 2, deep cycle batteries x 3
Wires - No specific brand but it will cost a bomb
Sound dampening - Dynamat and whatever else they offer for car all 3 layers
Installation - Neat & Clean


Mcintosh MX5000 H/U
Alpine H900 processor
Genesis R1 tweeters
Audio Technology 18H midrange/midbass
JL Audio 12w6v2
Genesis DMA/DMX/DMX or Phd Class A
$25,000 worth of stealth audio cables

maybe not the most exotic car, but a platform that should yeild the best car audio system in the world

Mcintosh MX406
TRU F2A
2 sets Rainbow Platinum Active CS 275.28
2 units Milbert 235ab
Tru Hammer for sub
Aliante Neo sub

Car: no preference yet
HU: MX5000
Proc: Alpine H900
Drivers: Scanspeak 2xR2904/7000, 2x12M, 2x18W, 1x23W all put on dash..... HAHAHA.... will need huge deep dash
Amp: 3 pairs of Sinfoni 60.1, 1x TRU Hammer
RCA: All Nordost Valhalla
Speaker cable: All Nordost Valkyrja
At least 150A alternator with 2 deep cycle batteries
Car full dynamatted and brax xvibrationed

:regular_smile: :regular_smile: :regular_smile:

when i kena sport toto i can do setup to my new audi
:embaressed_smile:

 

[cacin]

Go for method B. But improvise a bit.

One 4 CH amp to power your front comp set and the rear comps.
One monoblock for sub.
You might not need electronic crossover if the amp has sufficient HPF and LPF for your speaker/sub.

Or, if you really want to make is simple in terms of wiring, one 4CH amp for your front comps. If you haven't get rear comps, don't. Use the 2 other CH to power your sub. So, you save in terms of wiring costs and you probably can get a good 4 CH amp.

this is my noob opinions only. :D

 

[Zenn]

Sifus,

1) 3x low range price AMP (1 for tweeter, 1 for front & real components,
1 for sub)

1x active crossover connect after HU, to 3x amp.


2) 1x middle range price AMP for front & real components, 1x amp for sub.
(using passive crossover components)


Method A, 3x amp + 1x active crossover PRICING EQUAL to Method B 2x Amp

Eh, the method A could produce much better?

ok reading this original question again i would go for B but i would use the budget for rear speakers to upgrade the front speakers instead, no need rears.

for me a good passive system will be better than a lousy active one...only if compare good passive and good active, then active will be better, subject to tuning of coz...

 

[mohdashraf81]

why u using 3 amps 1 for tweeter,1 for 2 component, 1 for woofer......hummmmmm...... so 1 amp is for tweeter only ka.....ke aku yang tak paham......hummmmmmm.... ok right now my setup is like your method A......im using 3 amps, 1 for front component set, 1 for rear component set, 1 for subwoofer.......this three amps directly attach to xover output....the xover iinput is directly to preamp...thepre-amp is directly to my head unit......hummmmm........the sound......is nice la.....but this kind of setup can make you pening when you want to tuning.......b'coz tomany level to adjust.....hehehehehehehehehehe just my 2 cents....

 

[irontech]

actually this question was from i-carworld mag statement..... it mentioned, 1 amp for High, 1 amp for mid, 1 amp for low.. + active crossover, (passive crossover useless..). Thats the statement.

 

[oldskolboyz]

I think U confuse oledi loorr... when U oledi use 3way XO than passive crossover useless loorr.. but U must understand not all in the market is truely 3way XO.. just afew only.. others is 2way XO like lanzar X6 or X8, Autobahn, Directed 206, Macrom 48.22, all this XO dont have bandpass 1 & U dont be bluf by the marking on the xo face or box write 3way xo.. this type of XO still need passive crossover.

3way XO must have LowPass (LP), BandPass (HP+LP) & HighPass (HP) filter/ouput like Tru F1/F2, Macrom 48.13, Orion CS1, Audiobahn AX303, Memphis 16X03.. coz each output only for specific Driver like LP for SUb, BandPass (BP) for Midbass/range & HP for tweeter..