my Airtrek problem

Well, it's all about providing you a solution. The task could be simple but he fulfills what you request to be done. I still recall back in 1996 when I had my Saga Megavalve. I hear a loud snapping sound from the engine pulley. Sounded very serious and terminal. "trrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr". It's so loud that it can be heard from 50 meters away!

So I went to this shop, the boss looked at it and said he could fix it. He dropped the front wheels, open the inner mud-flaps and tighten a pulley screw. Yeap, it was loose. Back in 1996, he charged me RM45!!!!! I was so shocked. I paid however and later complained to my friend. My friend said, did he manage to solve the problem which you thought it will cost you hundreds for repair? Well, he solved your problem. .. and I thought for it and accepted the fact.

He easily solved the problem because he has good knowledge and experience. I did not buy his effort to tighten the screw but I bought his skills and knowledge to SOLVE MY PROBLEM. Just imagine if it's someone less experienced, he would have opened up everything including the rocker cover. Anyway, I went too far... but just wanted to explain to you, knowledge and experience counts.

That is why reflashing and remapping cost thousands but the effort to do so just seconds (upload and download). :)
 
Well, it's all about providing you a solution. The task could be simple but he fulfills what you request to be done. I still recall back in 1996 when I had my Saga Megavalve. I hear a loud snapping sound from the engine pulley. Sounded very serious and terminal. "trrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr". It's so loud that it can be heard from 50 meters away!

So I went to this shop, the boss looked at it and said he could fix it. He dropped the front wheels, open the inner mud-flaps and tighten a pulley screw. Yeap, it was loose. Back in 1996, he charged me RM45!!!!! I was so shocked. I paid however and later complained to my friend. My friend said, did he manage to solve the problem which you thought it will cost you hundreds for repair? Well, he solved your problem. .. and I thought for it and accepted the fact.

He easily solved the problem because he has good knowledge and experience. I did not buy his effort to tighten the screw but I bought his skills and knowledge to SOLVE MY PROBLEM. Just imagine if it's someone less experienced, he would have opened up everything including the rocker cover. Anyway, I went too far... but just wanted to explain to you, knowledge and experience counts.

That is why reflashing and remapping cost thousands but the effort to do so just seconds (upload and download). :)

ya, of cause i understand this.
reflashing and remapping need cost thousand?
 
Lancer GT dyno tuning/reflashing = RM1800.
Golf GTi stage 2 tuning = RM2K++
Airtrek members, if you go to Ah Wah's, there's AC Motorsports dyno tuning, special discount RM800.
 
Lancer GT dyno tuning/reflashing = RM1800.
Golf GTi stage 2 tuning = RM2K++
Airtrek members, if you go to Ah Wah's, there's AC Motorsports dyno tuning, special discount RM800.

oic...actually my stock car need do tuning/reflashing or not? cos so long time ago.
 
the valve i think not so difficult to service.
normally i will do some service by myself if not difficult.
may i know the manual boost controller u all buy how much? cause some sell very cheap. some sell over hundred something. have ppl told me the cheap 1 is fake d, from china.
fake also can use?

I use tulang ikan only rm7 from fish shop :biggrin:
 
Err... Reflashing or tuning is not like adjusting timing. The reflashing I meant is about changing fuel maps. In stock, you don't really need to perform. Unless u have mods and wanting the fuel mapping matches the mods u have, then u do it. In essense, u dun need it now.
 
U running on ron97 or ron95? If JDM u need to reflash your timing to meet Ron95. If u add more boost u definately need more fuel, if run too lean + knocking... boom...
 
stock airtrek still can use ron95. even with increased boost. re-flash would just make it better n gain more hp.
 
U running on ron97 or ron95? If JDM u need to reflash your timing to meet Ron95. If u add more boost u definately need more fuel, if run too lean + knocking... boom...

ex-owner run 97ron , now i run 95ron. yes, this car is import.

---------- Post added at 02:34 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:33 PM ----------

stock airtrek still can use ron95. even with increased boost. re-flash would just make it better n gain more hp.

oic. can get better FC?
 
All treks in Msia are imported. What he meant is, is yr car a JDM Japan Domestic Model aka recond unit or is it Import Baru by HSF. if JDM, u need 97. Local import baru u can use 95.

I was running 1.2 bar with bolt on mods with 95 for many years before I reflash mine. So local import baru has no problem using 95. But also depends a lot on engine health.
 
All treks in Msia are imported. What he meant is, is yr car a JDM Japan Domestic Model aka recond unit or is it Import Baru by HSF. if JDM, u need 97. Local import baru u can use 95.

I was running 1.2 bar with bolt on mods with 95 for many years before I reflash mine. So local import baru has no problem using 95. But also depends a lot on engine health.

oic.get it.
 
Bro Biao,

Here is what I would suggest you to do for now. Do not modify anything now. Don't increase the boost. Do a complete service like oil and fluid change. Any replaceable parts like air filter or brake pads, do it first. Get your car into tip top condition. Drive it around and sense anything abnormal. Get them fixed/repaired.

Maybe a boost meter for now will be adequate.
 
Bro Biao,

Here is what I would suggest you to do for now. Do not modify anything now. Don't increase the boost. Do a complete service like oil and fluid change. Any replaceable parts like air filter or brake pads, do it first. Get your car into tip top condition. Drive it around and sense anything abnormal. Get them fixed/repaired.

Maybe a boost meter for now will be adequate.

when i get the car, i change brake fluid, power stering fluid, coolant(fully coolant), wash air filter K&N already.
engine oil and ATF cause ex-owner just change it not longer, now only use 2k/km only.
but maybe tomorrow i will change the engine oil 1st.
the boost controller all this i haven install yet. i just want get more knowledge 1st. i think after cny just think it.
 
Good that you have all the things done. What I meant for you is a boost meter. Maybe the previous owner has it installed but if have not, get one. Do not settle for imitation stuffs. Only insist on originals. Apexi will set you back around RM450-500. I am using Sard. I paid RM350 for my SARD 5 years ago.
 
Good that you have all the things done. What I meant for you is a boost meter. Maybe the previous owner has it installed but if have not, get one. Do not settle for imitation stuffs. Only insist on originals. Apexi will set you back around RM450-500. I am using Sard. I paid RM350 for my SARD 5 years ago.

previous owner never install any thing.
WORKS ok? below rm300
 
A lot of imitation Works Engineering in the market too. Just beware. Yes, it is a good brand.
 
A lot of imitation Works Engineering in the market too. Just beware. Yes, it is a good brand.

the performance shop recommend to me. and i saw some brand have gauge meter together, some do not have. TOMEI do not have the meter, need additional add on.
 
When u buy a boost meter, just get one that comes with the stand like Apexi or Defi. My Sard came without a stand, so hafta get the a-pillar pod mount. I know nowadays, even Auto Guage from Taiwan has imitation ones.
 
When u buy a boost meter, just get one that comes with the stand like Apexi or Defi. My Sard came without a stand, so hafta get the a-pillar pod mount. I know nowadays, even Auto Guage from Taiwan has imitation ones.

so actually really very hard to prevent this.
 

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