Recommended Engine Oil For Me

[LucasChng]

Greetings guys!

I'm driving a 4G92 SOHC stick tranny, just need some advise on the engine oils that is ideal for my driving style, was currently using ELF Semi-Syn 10-30. Going to change the engine oil soon. Just need some advise from you guys.

- Visiting Uncle Lim at least 2 times per month, daily driven to work daily 15km per day. Always hit 6k RPM. Oil changes based on month not mileage, around 4-5 months once, odo clock around 3k per oil changes. No oil leak visible, and I still think this 20y'old engine is still virgin.

What do you guys think?

 

[gunnerzz]

Greetings guys!

I'm driving a 4G92 SOHC stick tranny, just need some advise on the engine oils that is ideal for my driving style, was currently using ELF Semi-Syn 10-30. Going to change the engine oil soon. Just need some advise from you guys.

- Visiting Uncle Lim at least 2 times per month, daily driven to work daily 15km per day. Always hit 6k RPM. Oil changes based on month not mileage, around 4-5 months once, odo clock around 3k per oil changes. No oil leak visible, and I still think this 20y'old engine is still virgin.

What do you guys think?

Wah, i would let the oil run longer i u drove the car everyday.
Using premium oil will be a waste if u stick to 4-5 mth change interval.
If the engine does not consume oil then u can continue using the oil.
If u really wants to change then used 15-40w to provide a bit more protection at that occasional 6k rpm. Any reputable brand is good such as castrol, Shell, Total.

I have been using Total Quartz 9000 since 40k km, now already 180k km. No oil disappearing.
This oil can easily last beyond 10k km using my butt feeling.

 

[ken yeang]

what's wrong with ELF Semi-Syn 10-30?

 

[LucasChng]

Wah, i would let the oil run longer i u drove the car everyday.
Using premium oil will be a waste if u stick to 4-5 mth change interval.
If the engine does not consume oil then u can continue using the oil.
If u really wants to change then used 15-40w to provide a bit more protection at that occasional 6k rpm. Any reputable brand is good such as castrol, Shell, Total.

I have been using Total Quartz 9000 since 40k km, now already 180k km. No oil disappearing.
This oil can easily last beyond 10k km using my butt feeling.

what's wrong with ELF Semi-Syn 10-30?

Thanks for the advise, the engine doesn't consume the oil, but just that it gets dirty & thick very quickly. Everytime oil changes, I uses a mineral engine oil to do a flushing first. But still it gets dark very fast. Or maybe it has something to do with my engine?

 

[satria81]

i've been using Castrol 20W-50 for the past 8 years now for my 4G93 and found it to be good

6-7k rpm is something normal i do on a daily basis yet no issues

however, i change my engine oil every 3,000kms or max 3,200 kms eversince

 

[Izso]

i've been using Castrol 20W-50 for the past 8 years now for my 4G93 and found it to be good

6-7k rpm is something normal i do on a daily basis yet no issues

however, i change my engine oil every 3,000kms or max 3,200 kms eversince

That's... thick. Is your 4G93 turbo charged? If not that's a little too thick.

Thanks for the advise, the engine doesn't consume the oil, but just that it gets dirty & thick very quickly. Everytime oil changes, I uses a mineral engine oil to do a flushing first. But still it gets dark very fast. Or maybe it has something to do with my engine?

Engine oil getting black is a normal thing. Getting thick is just indicator of wear and time to change.

I personally recommend Penrite 5W40. It comes 5L packs and quite good oil. Takes a lot of high-revving to get the oil to go over 90 degrees Celsius. I've tried overheating my car by redlining in 2nd gear for 15 minutes continuously and surprisingly the oil maintained 85 degrees (average) throughout the test never once touching 89 deg. That's pretty impressive if you ask me.

Rock Oil 5W30 or 40 is also pretty good but at a slightly more premium price than Penrite. Sepang track proven for me, my tyres and brakes wore out faster than the oil could heat up.

Economical oils like Pennzoil 5W30 are very good in terms of cost per use and work quite well to clean the engine and not shear too quickly for everyday use. But I suspect this might not be suitable for your driving style.

Btw all I recommended are fully syn.

 

[tofu_manic]

oil gets dirty quick means it is doing its job of picking up bad stuff better than an oil which stays squeaky clean for a long time

like toilet paper which stays clean even after use...whatever it is ure trying to wipe will never sparkle hehe

 

[steven7810]

hello... bro... morning... I driving iswara with mivec engine.. just done overhaul full engine.. now using REV-1 FULLY
feeling the engine is lighter and smooth..
try ask..

 

[vr2turbo]

Wah, i would let the oil run longer i u drove the car everyday.
Using premium oil will be a waste if u stick to 4-5 mth change interval.
If the engine does not consume oil then u can continue using the oil.
If u really wants to change then used 15-40w to provide a bit more protection at that occasional 6k rpm. Any reputable brand is good such as castrol, Shell, Total.

I have been using Total Quartz 9000 since 40k km, now already 180k km. No oil disappearing.
This oil can easily last beyond 10k km using my butt feeling.

But isn't it recommended to change at maximum 6 months for low mileage user, so 5 months is pretty close. Anyway, he did mention is dirty and thick already....

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Thanks for the advise, the engine doesn't consume the oil, but just that it gets dirty & thick very quickly. Everytime oil changes, I uses a mineral engine oil to do a flushing first. But still it gets dark very fast. Or maybe it has something to do with my engine?

But isn't it recommended to change at maximum 6 months for low mileage user, so 5 months is pretty close. Anyway, he did mention is dirty and thick already....

But a friend told me that using a Semi-Syn is good enough which is not necessary to use Fully Syn?
Then since my Jetta manual book recommended vicosity 10W40 so is not wise to use 5w30?

Well that's what one of my friends told me. Just wanna clarify further on this.

 

[Izso]

But a friend told me that using a Semi-Syn is good enough which is not necessary to use Fully Syn?
Then since my Jetta manual book recommended vicosity 10W40 so is not wise to use 5w30?

Well that's what one of my friends told me. Just wanna clarify further on this.

I'm ashamed to call you my friend You hang around me so often and I've explained oils so many times to you and you still ask this kinda question? :sleep:

If your book says 10W40 then 0W40, 5W40, 10W40 are all for you. All will work. Depends on your wallet.

"Normal" Semi and "normal" fully syn main difference is the oil change interval. Buy based on your wallet. If you can't afford a RM200 fully syn, no matter what I tell you, you're not going to buy it right? Some fully syns have more of something that makes it different from the rest like Penrite's "+10 viscosity" thing, Royal Purples superb detergents, etc. But if you can't afford these oils then Hondas 5W40 semi or Perodua 10W40 or PETRONAS Syntium will be for you since they are cheaper.

Also, should you use 5W30 in your car, you might just feel it's lighter than your normal xW40 oils. It'll still run and it might be even get better in FC but high revving might get affected. I've used my 0W20 on my Sylphy and it worked fine. Just that the revving was too "thin" and I could feel power loss. But the car still ran fine. Changed the oil at 6k interval cuz I couldn't stand the power loss.

Lastly - if you've used inferior oil for a long time and have sludge deposits which you've never bothered to clean out, using fully syns will definitely dislodge the sludge and you may end up with a leaky head or something.

So all in it's a personal choice on what oils you use, what viscosity to use and all. Got it?

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

I'm ashamed to call you my friend You hang around me so often and I've explained oils so many times to you and you still ask this kinda question? :sleep:

If your book says 10W40 then 0W40, 5W40, 10W40 are all for you. All will work. Depends on your wallet.

"Normal" Semi and "normal" fully syn main difference is the oil change interval. Buy based on your wallet. If you can't afford a RM200 fully syn, no matter what I tell you, you're not going to buy it right? Some fully syns have more of something that makes it different from the rest like Penrite's "+10 viscosity" thing, Royal Purples superb detergents, etc. But if you can't afford these oils then Hondas 5W40 semi or Perodua 10W40 or PETRONAS Syntium will be for you since they are cheaper.

Also, should you use 5W30 in your car, you might just feel it's lighter than your normal xW40 oils. It'll still run and it might be even get better in FC but high revving might get affected. I've used my 0W20 on my Sylphy and it worked fine. Just that the revving was too "thin" and I could feel power loss. But the car still ran fine. Changed the oil at 6k interval cuz I couldn't stand the power loss.

Lastly - if you've used inferior oil for a long time and have sludge deposits which you've never bothered to clean out, using fully syns will definitely dislodge the sludge and you may end up with a leaky head or something.

So all in it's a personal choice on what oils you use, what viscosity to use and all. Got it?

So, I should say I'm glad to have you as friend..

Cuz u willing to re-explain to me haha! I know bro I know. Just that, this time, another friend told me about his thoughts on fully syn and semi syn. Which is why I'm back to confusion on who or what to believe so would like to hear your opinions on what others said.

Just to further clarify la. But anyway thanks. I got it now. Agree on power loss at high revving. But pick up was much smoother than semi syns. But semi syns feel heavy on pick up but mid range and up is good.

 

[stupidcar]

So, I should say I'm glad to have you as friend..

Cuz u willing to re-explain to me haha! I know bro I know. Just that, this time, another friend told me about his thoughts on fully syn and semi syn. Which is why I'm back to confusion on who or what to believe so would like to hear your opinions on what others said.

Just to further clarify la. But anyway thanks. I got it now. Agree on power loss at high revving. But pick up was much smoother than semi syns. But semi syns feel heavy on pick up but mid range and up is good.

Later next month or so, forgot again

 

[vr2turbo]

I'm ashamed to call you my friend You hang around me so often and I've explained oils so many times to you and you still ask this kinda question? :sleep:

If your book says 10W40 then 0W40, 5W40, 10W40 are all for you. All will work. Depends on your wallet.

"Normal" Semi and "normal" fully syn main difference is the oil change interval. Buy based on your wallet. If you can't afford a RM200 fully syn, no matter what I tell you, you're not going to buy it right? Some fully syns have more of something that makes it different from the rest like Penrite's "+10 viscosity" thing, Royal Purples superb detergents, etc. But if you can't afford these oils then Hondas 5W40 semi or Perodua 10W40 or PETRONAS Syntium will be for you since they are cheaper.

Also, should you use 5W30 in your car, you might just feel it's lighter than your normal xW40 oils. It'll still run and it might be even get better in FC but high revving might get affected. I've used my 0W20 on my Sylphy and it worked fine. Just that the revving was too "thin" and I could feel power loss. But the car still ran fine. Changed the oil at 6k interval cuz I couldn't stand the power loss.

Lastly - if you've used inferior oil for a long time and have sludge deposits which you've never bothered to clean out, using fully syns will definitely dislodge the sludge and you may end up with a leaky head or something.

So all in it's a personal choice on what oils you use, what viscosity to use and all. Got it?

ha! ha! he like that loh! never remember so he require us to remind him everytime, that is why we need to start a consultant fee dy.....

Yup, my ex colleague tried 5w-30 in his accord and find low end and town driving nice, but feel higher rpm and higher speed runs not too smooth, and when on 5w-40 the high speed in smooth, but town driving seems heavy....pros and cons, so he should be using 5w-35.....hahahahhqa

I agree on some being better oil like expensive FS, but do we need it, that is the question? If using car for track play, or having some mean power machine then it is good to use that oil, but having a NA family car do we actually require such oil, especially if using for daily drives only...

 

[ken yeang]

Most of the ppl here tend to be itchy-hand. No harm trying this and that brand.
But for me, I would stick with engine oil spec recommended by the manufacturer, then nothing should go wrong.

Safe for the engine and save my money buying premium oil. Of course, this is just me as I drive my car like 80years old unker and hardly rev the engine...

 

[LucasChng]

Thanks guys for all the recommendation, will try it on the next service. Just service it today since tomorrow gonna drive to PG. Correction, the ELF Semi-Syn was 10-40 .

As usual, did a flushing with mineral oil before putting in the Semi-Syn, I bought the so callled Honda Semi-Syn which was Idemitsu 10-30. After the oil changes, definitely felt lighter. Changed the plugs & fuel filter as well .

Some info to share to you guys which I have experience today.

My wira had a UR Bar on the lower front,
Proton Wira 1.6 / 1.8 (Sedan) Front Lower Bar / Front Member Brace - Ultra Racing Product Catalog

When the oil changes, it will splash on the bar. After done services, cleaned the bar and went for a drive. Noticed that quite a sum of engine oil dripping under the vehicle. Thought that I forgot to tighten the drain nut, but actual source of the engine oil dripping is from the bar, engine oil went into the bar inside. :sleep:

Will be monitoring & keep you guys updated

 

[Izso]

IN the bar???

How the heck?

---------- Post added at 07:08 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:04 AM ----------

Later next month or so, forgot again

The bugger already never read my reply. No need next month, next hour.

So, I should say I'm glad to have you as friend..

Cuz u willing to re-explain to me haha! I know bro I know. Just that, this time, another friend told me about his thoughts on fully syn and semi syn. Which is why I'm back to confusion on who or what to believe so would like to hear your opinions on what others said.

Just to further clarify la. But anyway thanks. I got it now. Agree on power loss at high revving. But pick up was much smoother than semi syns. But semi syns feel heavy on pick up but mid range and up is good.

!@#)(!@)&*%!@(#*!@%&@#!)#(!&%!)@(!)(&^

Nothing to do with semi or fully syn la! Smoother or power loss at high revs is the weight of the oil doing that, not fully or semi syn laaa. One of these days I should let you try the 0W40 semi I've come across, Chemlube or something like that. Bloody expensive for a semi but quite interesting cuz semis rarely come as a 0w oil.

Most of the ppl here tend to be itchy-hand. No harm trying this and that brand.
But for me, I would stick with engine oil spec recommended by the manufacturer, then nothing should go wrong.

Safe for the engine and save my money buying premium oil. Of course, this is just me as I drive my car like 80years old unker and hardly rev the engine...

You say that, but the Wira has a weird recommended weight - 20W50.

 

[vr2turbo]

IN the bar???

How the heck?

---------- Post added at 07:08 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:04 AM ----------



The bugger already never read my reply. No need next month, next hour.



!@#)(!@)&*%!@(#*!@%&@#!)#(!&%!)@(!)(&^

Nothing to do with semi or fully syn la! Smoother or power loss at high revs is the weight of the oil doing that, not fully or semi syn laaa. One of these days I should let you try the 0W40 semi I've come across, Chemlube or something like that. Bloody expensive for a semi but quite interesting cuz semis rarely come as a 0w oil.



You say that, but the Wira has a weird recommended weight - 20W50.

Yah! I wanted to say semi got 0w?

20w-50 is very old school, used in my cars those days....

 

[xbalance2002]

That's... thick. Is your 4G93 turbo charged? If not that's a little too thick.



Engine oil getting black is a normal thing. Getting thick is just indicator of wear and time to change.

I personally recommend Penrite 5W40. It comes 5L packs and quite good oil. Takes a lot of high-revving to get the oil to go over 90 degrees Celsius. I've tried overheating my car by redlining in 2nd gear for 15 minutes continuously and surprisingly the oil maintained 85 degrees (average) throughout the test never once touching 89 deg. That's pretty impressive if you ask me.

Rock Oil 5W30 or 40 is also pretty good but at a slightly more premium price than Penrite. Sepang track proven for me, my tyres and brakes wore out faster than the oil could heat up.

Economical oils like Pennzoil 5W30 are very good in terms of cost per use and work quite well to clean the engine and not shear too quickly for everyday use. But I suspect this might not be suitable for your driving style.

Btw all I recommended are fully syn.

bro where can i get Penrite oil, what is the price range?

 

[stupidcar]

IN the bar???

How the heck?

---------- Post added at 07:08 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:04 AM ----------



The bugger already never read my reply. No need next month, next hour.



!@#)(!@)&*%!@(#*!@%&@#!)#(!&%!)@(!)(&^

Nothing to do with semi or fully syn la! Smoother or power loss at high revs is the weight of the oil doing that, not fully or semi syn laaa. One of these days I should let you try the 0W40 semi I've come across, Chemlube or something like that. Bloody expensive for a semi but quite interesting cuz semis rarely come as a 0w oil.


You say that, but the Wira has a weird recommended weight - 20W50.

I think Proton simply set it at 20W50. Even my Persona is 20W50 so called 'recommended'.