Need help improving SEG converted to blacktop

Hi Nom,

I know exactly what you what, you want your car to be zippy at low RPM...right?

Veloc is right, heres what I did on my car
1) Iridium Spark plug rm50/pc or so
2) Change plug cable to NEW ones but not those expensive once RM1XX will do.
3) Clean the Throttle Body
4) Change the Fuel Pump to 4ageBT/3SGE fuel pump and install a Fuel regulator at fuel rail(set it at 40psi)
5) Replace the heavy rim with light ones taiwan 15"6.5jj +38 offset
6) Change the Exhaust piping to 2.3" piping, change the mid box with a bullet, End muffler with a standard Levin Ae111 muffler.
7) Change air filter with K&N filter

thats about it, now the car response is better than when I had a 1.3L engine.

5) Replace the heavy rim with light ones taiwan 15"6.5jj +38 offset- has been done.
but the 4) Change the Fuel Pump to 4ageBT/3SGE fuel pump and install a Fuel regulator at fuel rail(set it at 40psi) The fuel pump did not come with half cut?
 
Bro...those are not advance things at all, cause for any engine swap (4age 20V) the exhaust, fuel pump,brake system, the wheels and suspension is must to change, at least match it with the doner halfcut car. Thats all bro. If not the car wont perform accordingly.

The exhaust and fuel pump doesn't come with the half cut? First time I heard... Brake I agree most only come with the front disc. But set that aside. That is for stopping. Now we're talking about the engine here. I believe halfcut comes with all the necessary things for the engine to run. If are talking about the fuel pump at the fuel tank, I understand what you mean. Then installing a fuel regulator should give increased performance, but marginal. But I don't think the car won't run properly if you just transplant a halfcut without all the extras because my friends that transplanted a BT halfcut have their cars absolutely flying absolutely flies :)

5) Replace the heavy rim with light ones taiwan 15"6.5jj +38 offset- has been done.
but the 4) Change the Fuel Pump to 4ageBT/3SGE fuel pump and install a Fuel regulator at fuel rail(set it at 40psi) The fuel pump did not come with half cut?

Got la Nommiey. Don't worry. No fuel pump the car cannot run.
 
I can't see how any blacktop would need to be changed at such high revs, well unless it's a heavy car. Does anyone have any guesses how much this one model weighs?

I think the VVT control transistor might be burnt out, timing is wrong, it's in fault mode or the caps in the ECU are leaking. Also I see no point in more than a 2.25" exhaust for any engine that isn't running race cams with a high rev limit.
 
5) Replace the heavy rim with light ones taiwan 15"6.5jj +38 offset- has been done.
but the 4) Change the Fuel Pump to 4ageBT/3SGE fuel pump and install a Fuel regulator at fuel rail(set it at 40psi) The fuel pump did not come with half cut?

Hi Nom,

That means the tank is not changed during the swap, so need to get the fuel pump from Levin/carib/corolla GT 4AGE 20v car. If u get a Higher capcity fuel pump or after market than u need a fuel regulator. Just ask your mechanic I'm sure they can help u with it.
By the way what was the original engine CC?

I also forgot to mention, you should change the clutch plate as well if not done so.
 
Hi Nom,

That means the tank is not changed during the swap, so need to get the fuel pump from Levin/carib/corolla GT 4AGE 20v car. If u get a Higher capcity fuel pump or after market than u need a fuel regulator. Just ask your mechanic I'm sure they can help u with it.
By the way what was the original engine CC?

I also forgot to mention, you should change the clutch plate as well if not done so.

Tank was changed during the swap. the previous engine was standard 4AFE 1.6
 
Agree with Sam-Q la... anything more than 2.3 or so would just be an overkill for street use...
 
Thanks for so many inputs. Now I know how to drive this car nicely. Tried revving to 6k rpm before changing gears totally change how I feel about the car. Feels so nice. Not to forget new engine oil also contribute to the nice feeling hehe.
 
Glad you have discovered shifting at 6000 rpm.
Also converted to 6 speed almost a year now. Stock, no modification yet. The 6 speed can easily overtake Civic, Lancer 2.0 but must shift above 6000 rpm ye...

But must sacrifice $ use RON 97 only for optimum performance.
 
ohh.. ok :biggrin: now I understand. but 1 more thing to ask is that when I push alot of gas to overtake, there will be metal grinding sound from the engine around 2.5-3.5k rpm. why is that happening? Is that engine knocking sound? it sound kerekerekere or something like that. I might take an audio file to show u all later. I am a noob lady driver of this car hahaha.

this issue similar to my car last month !!! what you going to do is check the distributor setting !!! maybe out already !!! suggest you to tune again using inductive pick-up timing light !!! my car got no problem already after done it !!!
 
Good for you Nommiey... Glad you are learning to love it.. Treasure it. You got a gem there! But, for daily drive, I wouldn't recommend to always shift at 6k rpm la... If not, kedarah also... Bad for pocket. It's okay for occasional burst of speeds. Shift at 7.2k or 8k rpm for max performance. But at normal times, drive ti like you would drive a normal car. Shift at 3k to 4k rpm and be a bit patient as it is a 1.6 L car still :driver:

---------- Post added at 02:44 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:33 AM ----------

this issue similar to my car last month !!! what you going to do is check the distributor setting !!! maybe out already !!! suggest you to tune again using inductive pick-up timing light !!! my car got no problem already after done it !!!

Now we're talking. Nommiey, I think you should take note of this and check your distributor? Since it matches your symptoms and if distributor's timing is out, loss of power will occur too. Matches both of your symptoms.... Thanks mate...
 
Thanks for so many inputs. Now I know how to drive this car nicely. Tried revving to 6k rpm before changing gears totally change how I feel about the car. Feels so nice. Not to forget new engine oil also contribute to the nice feeling hehe.

now u try to change every gear at 8k...u will be totally forget what u have feel when u change gear at 6k rpm...the memory will be overwrite... :driver:
 
mamatAE111 : I had gone through a japan magazine which entire book is talking about AE series/4age, and the extractor i sold to u i may 100% confirm it is HKS because in the magazine, there is a session just introducing those aftermarket extractor such as RSR,FGK, etc etc.. So no worries..or maybe i can take the pic for u to see..really 100% exactly the same :)

About knocking : I just change another halfcut (the h/c engine condition is freaking excellent)..and i pump RON95, NEVER experience any knocking even in a hot wether..But my previous BT knock like hell..so i guess is the combustion camber there with dirt/carbon
 
My take on improving low end torque. Aftermarket halfcut exhaust 2.38" + 4-2-1 extractor. Last time had to downshift to 4th gear on this corner I use everyday, now I can safely stick with 5th gear =)

Previous setup was 2inch follow ori route piping with standard extractor. Changed the exhaust first and can feel low end slightly improved, after changing to 4-2-1 wow! never had to downshift that much again =)
 
wow... dun la everytime change gear at 6000rpm. it is bad for your pocket :P

like what the others said, try changing to a better exhaust setup, 2.3inch in piping size and 4-2-1 header approved by jasma. i suggest u go for FGK 4-2-1.
 
Nommiey, colder plugs are spark plugs that are used for high performance engines. I forgot how exactly it works. But the principles is that it works at a colder temperature so that your air-fuel mixture is less likely to detonate, thus reduce knocking. Not sure how much though.

But carbon cleaner I would recommend. But then again, some say they feel difference and some say they do not feel the difference.

Can suggest me what brand of carbon cleaner is good and how to use it?
 

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