If ET30 still inside the fender then TS needs lower PCD for the rims to come out. Most cars with 35 already in line with fender plus tyres actually comes out already...:hmmmm:
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If ET30 still inside the fender then TS needs lower PCD for the rims to come out. Most cars with 35 already in line with fender plus tyres actually comes out already...:hmmmm:
Guys I have a question, my perdana right side always visibly lower than the left hand side, and I think its causing my right side tyre outer part to wear prematurely. Previously the tyre wear pattern also similar, but that time my front right camber was off, now bengkok balik but still wear pattern the same. I have adjustable suspension and previously already adjust so that right side slightly higher.
Any ideas what might be causing this? Appreciate your advice.
Regards
Any ideas what might be causing this? Appreciate your advice.
Regards
Higher and lower suspension should not affect your tyre wear if the camber and alignment setting is correct. If you are getting outer shoulder wear and you do plenty of faster corners you should set more negative camber. Being FWD the alignment also have to toe out
Hi vr2turbo, however I am only getting extra wear on the outer tyre of the right hand side. And perdana camber cant be set right? I mean adjusted easily other than to bend the arm thingie? How much toe out is required?
update: also guys, what is the normal pressure for your tyres? I try to follow the placard on the door but it seems the tyres are squished, like not enough air. i pump 220kpa front and 200kpa rear
update: also guys, what is the normal pressure for your tyres? I try to follow the placard on the door but it seems the tyres are squished, like not enough air. i pump 220kpa front and 200kpa rear
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Oh! you did the camber by bending the absorber/knuckle? Did they remove from the car to get it hydraulically pressed or they did it on the car?
Taking out to press it the right way, if they did it on the car using hand held hydraulic press it could have hurt your wheel bearings already.
Anyway the easy way nowadays is to fit the camber nut, then you can adjust whatever settings you want. However as with everything you do have pros and cons.
For camber and toe, first is to set to your factory recommendation. However if your camber is set more negative then the toe angle is set slightly inner. Inner does not mean toe in, but can still be toe out but with lesser angle. I cannot give you a figure as it all depends on the camber setting.
If your factory recommendation is 220/200 this is cold tyre pressure, therefore if you drive to pump your air at the station fill in more as your tyres have already heated up. Probably 240/220 and also is the station pump meter correct?
Air pressure also can be individually set. For example now at 220/200 how do you feel? Is the ride bumpy or floaty? What tyre aspect ratio? Are you still on original 205/55R16 or have changed to 17" with lower profile?
I guess you still feel comfy with 220/200 you can increase the pressure up higher until a point you feel bumpy then reduce back slightly. You can set your own air pressure setting....
220/200 doesn't feel comfortable for me on my stock size tyre 205/55/16, I set at 200/180 which is factory recommended pressures. As I'm on hard suspension (now regret), higher pressures hurt back more.
180kPa is just nice for the rear. Tyre shops pumped 240kPa all round and that made the ride extremely harsh. I don't know what they have in their brains.
BTW, anyone has TEIN wants to swap with me? Mine is TEIN HR hi-lo, with 8k front 6k rear is I'm not mistaken.
Oh! you did the camber by bending the absorber/knuckle? Did they remove from the car to get it hydraulically pressed or they did it on the car?
Taking out to press it the right way, if they did it on the car using hand held hydraulic press it could have hurt your wheel bearings already.
Anyway the easy way nowadays is to fit the camber nut, then you can adjust whatever settings you want. However as with everything you do have pros and cons.
For camber and toe, first is to set to your factory recommendation. However if your camber is set more negative then the toe angle is set slightly inner. Inner does not mean toe in, but can still be toe out but with lesser angle. I cannot give you a figure as it all depends on the camber setting.
If your factory recommendation is 220/200 this is cold tyre pressure, therefore if you drive to pump your air at the station fill in more as your tyres have already heated up. Probably 240/220 and also is the station pump meter correct?
Air pressure also can be individually set. For example now at 220/200 how do you feel? Is the ride bumpy or floaty? What tyre aspect ratio? Are you still on original 205/55R16 or have changed to 17" with lower profile?
I guess you still feel comfy with 220/200 you can increase the pressure up higher until a point you feel bumpy then reduce back slightly. You can set your own air pressure setting....
I feel comfy with factory settings of 200/180 back, as per the door plate stating. Rims and tyres are still same size. My only concern was the front tyre looks a little too flat, feels under-inflated. Coupled that with the weird thread wear patterns I have been wondering what I have been doing wrong.
I did the pressing twice, first time was pressing on the car but that didn't last very long. Just a few weeks. Then did it again with trusted foreman, he removed it and pressed it and so far the tyre doesn't look like it has positive camber anymore.
But the problem with the right side higher still remains. My foreman has told me its because I always drive alone and its normal. Any comments guys?
:hmmmm:
Weird wear is like how? Wearing wavy up and down, or wear on the outer and inner shoulder side of the tyres?
If wear uneven with wavy up and down pattern then your absorbers are gone.
If wear on the inner and outer shoulder then it is under inflated.
I read back your former post and you mentioned right side lower, right? not higher. If right side lower it is common. After long time use the springs have weaken or more compressed. My car is like that too.
yeah sorry right side lower. Weird wear as in its only the outer of the tyre that is wearing faster than rest of the areas, and the front tyre is even like a little bits peeling off. and its the right hand side tyre that is wearing faster than the left hand side.
Only the outer shoulder wear, looks like camber issue. After your mechanic did the hydraulic pumping did you check on tyre shop alignment machine what is the reading?
Yeah I should go and check on the reading. I asked the guy to do alignment after pumping and it seems fine at the time.
Hello Perdanareans ..
may i get some advice here for my v6.
my v6 got overheating and cant be started. My sister doesn't notice that the temperature increase while driving. Suddenly, the car was stopped by itself and cant be start back.
i just check the radiator but don see any leak.i think the gasket was burn =(.
now..is it possible to me to rebuild this engine or buy enjin kosong ?many said if get overheat better to change halfcut engine..its to risky.
so here..may i hear some advice from v6ster to me.pls..thanks a lot brader!!!
may i get some advice here for my v6.
my v6 got overheating and cant be started. My sister doesn't notice that the temperature increase while driving. Suddenly, the car was stopped by itself and cant be start back.
i just check the radiator but don see any leak.i think the gasket was burn =(.
now..is it possible to me to rebuild this engine or buy enjin kosong ?many said if get overheat better to change halfcut engine..its to risky.
so here..may i hear some advice from v6ster to me.pls..thanks a lot brader!!!
There are many possible causes. Leaks in radiator, water jackets, hoses, gasket, failing water pump. Ask workshop to conduct a pressure test. Overhaul is cheaper than a transplant bro, and you can't be sure a halfcut engine won't overheat too.
It depends on your original engine how bad is the overheating. If gasket burn could be small matter. If engine or head is warped then will be costly and more work to be done. Get it checked properly before you decide.....
i think gasket burn already cause when i start on cranks water come out from upper radiator..i dont sure its about pressure or head burn..so..here..to confirm the problems. at least i must open the head ya to see the condition? i think quite bad..water and engine oil comes out from block-head. try ask 1st workshop.they said to change engine kosong and change a broken part. The costing is near 7k! is it possible? haihhhhssssss.. can get a halfcut engineee broo!!
sori brothers.im not good in english.hope u understand. =P
sori brothers.im not good in english.hope u understand. =P
Warped head mah skim la, if skimmed head increases CR, use thicker gasket. I had blown gasket and so skimmed head too, but no problem using stock gasket . RM7k to fix not worth lo, a new V6 engine only RM4k, it's better change to 4G63 DOHC, less maintenance less problems. If want power get the turbo one lagi best.
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the easiest way is to get an engine kosong, but u need to be hardworking to enter perdana FB's & forums, most of them
are selling their engines cheap & negotiable price.
are selling their engines cheap & negotiable price.
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