Engine oil and petrol brand (most controversial topic lol)

Yup agree with the above, using good FS oil actually can be cheaper than using semi. If semi oil, should get below rm90 or at least under rm100 then ok.

Amsoil not widely available though.

looks like amsoil >> Lmoly :hmmmm:

lazada only got 1 seller...selling only 1 amsoil..do you know where can i get it in klang valley?
 
I've used Amsoil SSO, German Castrol, M1, Blitz S2, Shell Helix Ultra.

Among all, I'd say Amsoil SSO 0w30 is the best overall. 15,000km easy
M1 0w40 is 2nd best overall. 15,000km as well

German Castrol 0w30 is good, but longevity from the sound of the engine not as good as SSO & M1. I won't go beyond 10,000km
Blitz S2 5w40 is good when fresh, again, longevity from the sound not as good as all 3 above. But in terms of "fresh oil" it is the best by far. Kaputs around 7000km. If you're practicing oil change every 5000km, I'll definitely pick this oil. I'm too lazy so I go for the long oil change intervals.

Shell Helix Ultra.. oklor. I got it for RM119 back then, apa lagi mau? It was the cheapest synthetic.

Redline engine oil is fully synthetic, but the price was like RM6x per quart, too expensive for my blood. But from my friend's subjective feedback, doesn't seem to last well past 10k km.

I use my oils hard, because the turbo is always boosting and engine oil is circulated to the turbo as well.
 
I've used Amsoil SSO, German Castrol, M1, Blitz S2, Shell Helix Ultra.

Among all, I'd say Amsoil SSO 0w30 is the best overall. 15,000km easy
M1 0w40 is 2nd best overall. 15,000km as well

German Castrol 0w30 is good, but longevity from the sound of the engine not as good as SSO & M1. I won't go beyond 10,000km
Blitz S2 5w40 is good when fresh, again, longevity from the sound not as good as all 3 above. But in terms of "fresh oil" it is the best by far. Kaputs around 7000km. If you're practicing oil change every 5000km, I'll definitely pick this oil. I'm too lazy so I go for the long oil change intervals.

Shell Helix Ultra.. oklor. I got it for RM119 back then, apa lagi mau? It was the cheapest synthetic.

Redline engine oil is fully synthetic, but the price was like RM6x per quart, too expensive for my blood. But from my friend's subjective feedback, doesn't seem to last well past 10k km.

I use my oils hard, because the turbo is always boosting and engine oil is circulated to the turbo as well.

Any particular reason why you use a 0w? I thought they're only required in 4 seasons countries.

Also, anybody tried voltronic?
 
Any particular reason why you use a 0w? I thought they're only required in 4 seasons countries.

Also, anybody tried voltronic?

0w for cold countries is the old explanation. newer cars with tighter tolerances these days would use oil as light as 0w20.

https://www.carlist.my/news/caring-...ce-jobs-done-hondas-authorised-service/42767/

The turbochargers and its related ancillary components are maintenance-free and since Honda has adopted the highest SN grade lubricant (formulated by Idemitsu, 0W-20 for fully synthetic oil) for all its engines, the Civic does not need a different lubricant.

0w oils help protect against cold starts, as the oil is lighter/easier to circulate before its up to operational temperature.
 
I've used Amsoil SSO, German Castrol, M1, Blitz S2, Shell Helix Ultra.

Among all, I'd say Amsoil SSO 0w30 is the best overall. 15,000km easy
M1 0w40 is 2nd best overall. 15,000km as well

German Castrol 0w30 is good, but longevity from the sound of the engine not as good as SSO & M1. I won't go beyond 10,000km
Blitz S2 5w40 is good when fresh, again, longevity from the sound not as good as all 3 above. But in terms of "fresh oil" it is the best by far. Kaputs around 7000km. If you're practicing oil change every 5000km, I'll definitely pick this oil. I'm too lazy so I go for the long oil change intervals.

Shell Helix Ultra.. oklor. I got it for RM119 back then, apa lagi mau? It was the cheapest synthetic.

Redline engine oil is fully synthetic, but the price was like RM6x per quart, too expensive for my blood. But from my friend's subjective feedback, doesn't seem to last well past 10k km.

I use my oils hard, because the turbo is always boosting and engine oil is circulated to the turbo as well.

where do u get your amsoil?

so far change every 7k once the EO get really dark...and butt feel 'heavy'

How do you determine whether the EO kaputs?
 
where do u get your amsoil?

so far change every 7k once the EO get really dark...and butt feel 'heavy'

How do you determine whether the EO kaputs?

Back then from Mayalab, but I think they are no longer the distributor.

EO should turn black after use, that's the detergents and additives working. I determine it from the sound from the engine. I'm quite attuned to the sound of my engine. So I make a mental note when oil is fresh, and listen to it from time to time.

Considering M1 shows that it easily does 10k miles (16k km) on other people's UOA, so I just went for it. Actually it sounds like it can still go, but I didn't bother since no I don't do UOA, and 15k miles is almost a year. I strongly believe changing EO every year, regardless of the mileage.

And from the time where my engine was cracked open, everything inside is clean. No varnish whatsoever.

Oh forgot, I also used the local UMW Pennzoil synthetic platinum, usually 8k km.
 
0w for cold countries is the old explanation. newer cars with tighter tolerances these days would use oil as light as 0w20.

https://www.carlist.my/news/caring-...ce-jobs-done-hondas-authorised-service/42767/



0w oils help protect against cold starts, as the oil is lighter/easier to circulate before its up to operational temperature.

That's very interesting, thanks for sharing the knowledge.

Always thought it is for cold countries only and when I started my car back then when it was -20 outside, the engine did sound terrifying at first.
 
That's very interesting, thanks for sharing the knowledge.

Always thought it is for cold countries only and when I started my car back then when it was -20 outside, the engine did sound terrifying at first.

Realistically, with M'sian weather 10w oil is more than enough. But say you're parked in Genting or Camerons overnight, 5w or 0w would be good to have
 
Realistically, with M'sian weather 10w oil is more than enough. But say you're parked in Genting or Camerons overnight, 5w or 0w would be good to have

I doubt it makes much difference in Cameron with 16 deg C on cold raining morning. Overseas winters are those below zero winters.....:driver:
 
Realistically, with M'sian weather 10w oil is more than enough. But say you're parked in Genting or Camerons overnight, 5w or 0w would be good to have

handsome, modern cars don't work that way already laaaaaa. your engine already 27 years old. give it 0w probably it'll leak all over.
 
handsome, modern cars don't work that way already laaaaaa. your engine already 27 years old. give it 0w probably it'll leak all over.

20 la woi. Where got 27. And it's rebuilt running 5W50. 0 won't have issues
 
Realistically, with M'sian weather 10w oil is more than enough. But say you're parked in Genting or Camerons overnight, 5w or 0w would be good to have

I doubt it makes much difference in Cameron with 16 deg C on cold raining morning. Overseas winters are those below zero winters.....:driver:

Amazingly when I started my friend's EG6 when it was -15 out, it was struggling to start and once it started it was pretty rough (till everything was warmed up). But when I started a waaay newer car (C350) in the same temperature, it started up so easily on the first try. Technology has come a looong way.
 
20 la woi. Where got 27. And it's rebuilt running 5W50. 0 won't have issues

Don’t butthurt la, the base engine family was introduced in 1990 ma. Rebuild already new seals of course won’t leak lo. I’d try 0w40 Mobil 1 in a freshly build engine. 50w really damn old school these days.
 
Amazingly when I started my friend's EG6 when it was -15 out, it was struggling to start and once it started it was pretty rough (till everything was warmed up). But when I started a waaay newer car (C350) in the same temperature, it started up so easily on the first try. Technology has come a looong way.

Could be oil used.
 
Don’t butthurt la, the base engine family was introduced in 1990 ma. Rebuild already new seals of course won’t leak lo. I’d try 0w40 Mobil 1 in a freshly build engine. 50w really damn old school these days.

Yes true, my rebuilt 4G13 with M1 0W-40 or SHU 5W-40 does not leak.
 
So many funny brands this days even at Lazada. RM60 for fully syn. Are there any regulatory body which regulate these ?
 

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