chun beng. i'm telling you its not possible. for 28k i'd be better off getting 2 sets of suspension, 1 for daily and 1 for track/drift. I've got top of the line ohlins. the pamphlet says that at sof the car is very comfortable bla bla bla thats just marketing talk lerr. its still stiff and every time i change the settings i can never go back to track settings. i'll have to go to the suspension fellow and spend almost 2 hours with the car off the ground because in the instruction manual it reccomends that you set the changes with no stress on the suspension. so no just decide what you want. There is another way which is to set it more towards drift but you loose some on daily driving but then again its never actually 100% drift set as well.go figure.
:dito: CB, you've got to keep in mind that bleed orifices only control low shaft velocities. If this one is firm, you get good transient control of body movement like roll and possibly pitch as well. You will be sacrificing slightly in 'chatter' or 'judder' as a stiffly damped low speed setting doesn't react well to high frequency stuff well.
The main orifices on the piston covered by shim stacks deal with high velocity shaft speed and they deal with what we in the mountain bike world call "big hit". That is pretty much it. I'm just gonna stay with linear here because going into a discussion about digressive and velocity dependant is gonna be messy. Mostly because I'm stupid about them hahaha.
Ride harshness also depends on spring rate of the car. I told you about that formula to calculate natural sprung mass frequency which you can then derive your spring rate from. Obviously an uber stiffie bitch of a spring is not going to take random big hits like famed KL potholes too well. They're awesome for crushing your spleen and causing slip discs though *grin*
Then there's another headache where roll stiffness is directly related to spring rate and ARB stiffness. I can't remember how much percentage should the roll stiffness contributed by either the springs or ARB be but there's a general concensus between tuner tuner Jepun and European tuners. Japanese more or less places a higher percentage of their roll resistance work on to their springs, hence the arse-busting springs from Tein, JIC etc etc etc and because they have lovely roads to boot. The Europeans however are alot more practical. Reasonable spring rates coupled to firm low speed damping and large large large anti roll bars. Their cars handle alright. Plus they can take crap roads as well.
But I'm sure you knew that anyway...
Dev, when I cum bek, can i cum molest your dampers abit

you dun mind lite hahahaha
Cheers